dana 30 u-joint replacement

cj5walt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Location
mooresville, nc
can a fronht axle ujoint be replaced in a dana 30 without pulling the shaft? the joint isnt broken just worn out. its a narrow track 30 under a cj5 if that makes a difference.
 
I hate to say anythings impossible to do, but its probaly very close to impossible. You're gonna have to pull the shaft to change the U-joint.
 
okay, its not the worst news i've had lol. are there any special tools needed to pull the hub and knuckle? im a deisil mechanic so i can do the work, just some of the 4wd stuff is new to me
 
other cj guys might chime in but on a TJ there is Three 12 point 13mm hex bolts that once removed along with the brake callipers, the entire shaft and everything attached will pop right out.
 
EdJonesJeeper said:
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d30/axle-2.htm
Click to expand...

NOT even remotely applicable to the OP's request regarding a NT D30 in a CJ

cj5walt said:
are there any special tools needed to pull the hub and knuckle? im a deisil mechanic so i can do the work, just some of the 4wd stuff is new to me
Click to expand...

Depending on whether you have lockouts or Q-trac "drive slugs", you need to remove them. Most lockouts use Allen head bolts to attach to the hubs. Once the outer lockout is removed (depending on whether anyone's been into them prior), you'll need a set of EXTERNAL snap-ring pliers to pull the snap-rings off the end of the outer stub (axle) shaft to pull the inner "spacer" portion of the lockout off.

From there, you'll need a punch/prybar to bend the tabs up on the lockrings for the spindle nuts. ** If you have the old Warn "Lock-O-Matics", they used a round outer spindle nut held in place with setscrews ** . Assuming you have a late model with discs, remove the caliper lock bolt & key (with a punch) and bungee the caliper out of the way. Then remove the spindle nuts, inner/lockring/outer (I've always used a chisel to get them started) and pull the hub/rotor off.

Once down to the bare spindle, remove the nuts that hold the spindle to the knuckle, and using a WOOD block to protect the spindle, BFH the spindle side/side-up/down until you can work a prybar between the spindle & knuckle. Be careful nut to booger up the surfaces or warp the spindle flange prying though. (After this exercise, You'll see where to apply the anti-seize when it time to re-assemble :lol: ). Slide the spindle off the studs...

Then just grab the outer stub and pull it out.

15-20 minutes to remove each side working at a relaxed pace and not running into anything like seized/broken/rounded nuts & bolts... allowing time for an occasional sip of adult beverage :beer:

I'd also recommend checking the spindle seals/needle bearings and hub bearings for any wear/roughness... since you have them out on the bench, it's the best time to replace them if needed. Clean & repack the hub bearings & clean the rotor/pads before assembly.
 
thanks caver dave! that is some great info. i have warn manual hubs with drum brakes so im guessing i will do it about the same way you said. this is a project i have to get done in the next couple weeks, so if anyone wants to leand a come on lol i can only provide :beer: for compensation or soda of your choice. would going with spicer joints be my best option since i still have stock shafts or should i upgrade now?
 
what CD said^^^
the only "special" tools you should need are the snap ring pliers and a 2-1/16" socket.
The locking method for the spinlde nuts are kind of goofy. There is a flat washer sandwiched between 2x of the 2-1/16" nuts, and folded outward to lock the outer nut on. Remove as much grease/crud as you can so you can see whats going on. Punch the washer flat (or just hammer the socket on to flatten the washer), then the nut/washer/nut can be removed.
Reassembly can be fun, trying to fold the washer outward. I got rid of this setup and used Ford D44 spindle nuts, now I require the special tool.
The stock shafts should have the 260x U-joint. Now would be a great time to upgrade to the shaft with aftermarket alloys that use the 297/760 joints. That being said, I wheeled my CJ quite a bit on the 260 shafts, it wasnt until I swapped in a T18 with granny low that I started popping U-joints.
 
it sounds like it uses the same locking method as the hubs and some rear axles on the internationals at work.

i was really wanting to throw some alloys in it but i just dont have the funds right now, tax time is killin me, but i will make sure and do it befor the sm-420 swap and the 35's i have planed at the end of the year. hopefully the spicers and stock shafts will live with 33's a 3-speed and 360 until i can upgrade
 
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