Drkelly..you didn't have any issues with running that set up?
Seems like it would weaken the tube in the area where you drilled the hole...
This is exactly what it looks like I need to do ...I've got jeep so low that there isn't enough clearance for the tie rod when it's on top of the high steer arm...soooo
"Ideal" Ackerman would be a line drawn from the center of the rear axle through the kingpin centerline. The tie rod mounts would need to be somewhere on this imaginary line. If the tie rod mounts are in front of the axle, and inward from the king pin centerline, then the Ackerman is backwards. The farther you turn, the outside tire would turn at a greater angle than the inside tire. "Ideal" Ackerman is the inside tire turns a higher angle than the outside.
Most high steer arms that are advertised as "correct" Ackerman, really just move closer to zero Ackerman, where both tires turn equal amounts.
IIRC, the stock tie rod mount is the same distance from the king pin centerline but closer to the rotor. I'll check this weekend. If that is the case, the stock mounts would have closer to no Ackerman angle than the ballistic arms.
Do those bushings add much resistance when trying to turn?
Might could try using the heims without misalignment washers on tierod. There shouldn't be much angular travel in those joints. Bushings are basically doing the same thing, but they might wear quick being compressed like that
Wow..so much useful info on this steering stuff..
I'm very interested in your 38degree steering turn radius reference...how do I figure this out so I don't worry about binding my new joints..my current steering stoppers seem to be out around 7/8 I think..will double check. I've always turned wheel all the way, spun axle and made sure there was close to heavy 1/16" clearance...seemed to work perfect on my last 44s with only breaking one axle after hammering down all day. Thanks for any input on this
Got it. Thank you sir. Even I can't screw this up lolJack up front axle,, run the steering stops in, spin tire by hand.
Turn wheel with tire spinning, you can feel/see when it's binding.
When it binds it will push the tire slightly straighter. Be it's low speed with no load, won't hurt anything.
Run the steering stops back out until you turn with no bind.
You can also take a flashlight and look in the knuckle, or put playdoh on the axle ears to verify clearance. You can see when they bind, it's literally an interference.
Run the stops out so it doesn't occur with load and speed, and you've got max angle your axle will handle.
You may have to remove drag link to allow the tie rod to travel farther than normal to even reach the bind point.
This has to do with the difference in length from tie rod to ball joint center line and the length of the Pittman arm. Also has to do with the angular throw of the steering box and the angle of the steering.
Ex, the steering box turns 90 degrees but the axle is only capable of 35 degrees each way. That's why your Pittman arm needs to be shorter than the distance from the ball joint centerline to the tie rod mounting hole.
I clamp a level directly to the rotor with tire wheel removed. Wheels get bent. Rotors typically are pretty true. I set at 3/32" @ 2ft from center. Close enough that it passed laser alignment without adjustment on the wife's zj.