Decision time: D30/8.8 vs D44/8.8 vs D60/8.8 vs D60/D60

Don't forget a e250 semi float 60 with factory 35 splines and disc brakes. Cheap, plentiful, strong. I think that would be ideal for a 8 lug 44 frt
 
jeepinmatt said:
Thats what I'm thinking right now. I've got my eye on an 8 lug full width D44 with cromos/detroit/hi-steer/hydro assist, and already setup for an XJ/TJ. Buy that, regear, drop it in, then run my 2.5" spacer/adapters on the 8.8 that I already have. If I feel so inclined in a couple months (or years), swap in a full width 8.8 or 9", and get some 8x6.5 pattern shafts or just buy thinner adapters. Part of the reason I de-tonnified my jeep was the weight. She was a porky beast.
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I told Nate to charge you double:flipoff2:
 
SD60, narrowed long side to 78-79 HPD60 length. The offset centersection will help with uptravel and packaging. Redrill the UB to 6 lug, you machinist you. :D High steer from Ujoint Offroad here in Fletcher. Buy my lunch when you come and pick up.
Toy FJ80 FF rear. Light, strong as all get out.

As a member myself of the built to the hilt D44 club, you know yourself you'll spend serious coin to make any 44 take what a nearly stock 60 will...

Or pull a @shawn and swap some JK Rubi 44s in and be done.
 
Jody Treadway said:
SD60, narrowed long side to 78-79 HPD60 length. The offset centersection will help with uptravel and packaging. Redrill the UB to 6 lug, you machinist you. :D High steer from Ujoint Offroad here in Fletcher. Buy my lunch when you come and pick up.
Toy FJ80 FF rear. Light, strong as all get out.

As a member myself of the built to the hilt D44 club, you know yourself you'll spend serious coin to make any 44 take what a nearly stock 60 will...

Or pull a @shawn and swap some JK Rubi 44s in and be done.
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Even if I find a SD60 for $400, I'll spend another $400 narrowing it and getting a shaft, then $300 for the TJ brackets and the time/effort of welding it on, then I still need gears/locker/histeer/ram. And thats assuming the hubs and brakes are good.

A built D44 will hold up just fine sitting in my garage anyway :bling:
 
Well that escalated quickly...
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There's now a built fullwidth D44 sitting in my shop. Thanks @Naterade99
 
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So could I run the Yukon Super Joints from my D30 in the D44 shafts?
 
:D
 
OK, since Matt made his mind up I have a follow up question.

How does any of this advice change if a low pinion front axle is absolutely required?
 
Falko said:
OK, since Matt made his mind up I have a follow up question.

How does any of this advice change if a low pinion front axle is absolutely required?
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Instead of a ford axle you would need to find a j10 or j20 44. I think i recall 80-86 being the driver side differential.
 
Falko said:
OK, since Matt made his mind up I have a follow up question.

How does any of this advice change if a low pinion front axle is absolutely required?
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I beat on the LP Waggy 44 front in my Ranger like it owed me money. SBF, 37 stickies, 4.3 Atlas. Broke a few shafts until I upgraded to RCVs. Never had a ring and pinion failure.
There is a little more to making a gear last (especially in that circumstance) than JUST making a pattern though.
 
Falko said:
OK, since Matt made his mind up I have a follow up question.

How does any of this advice change if a low pinion front axle is absolutely required?
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High pinion is stronger driving forward, low pinion is stronger when backing up. Otherwise no real difference other than the pinion location. Somewhere there's a thread or two where I go into detail about it, but I can't seem to find it. I personally prefer low pinion front because of the weight distribution. If going uphill forwards, you'll be light on the frontend. If going uphill backwards, you'll be heavy on the frontend, which is when you want strength in the R&P.

When trying to find the thread, I stumbled across this advice I gave to someone, which seems humorous in light of the current thread:
jeepinmatt said:
Do nothing for now, and eventually upgrade to a D44 front to match the 8.8 rear. I ran 36" Iroks (37" actual diameter) for a while on a D30 with no issues.
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What the deuce is all this yapping about light weight, xxxlb nonsense?


Pigs make bacon and she ain't a lady if she aint 280. :lol:
 
Personally I would look at upgrading a lp30 before I would a hp30. the shafts in any 44 are the same strength wise. The lp44 R&P are stronger than d30, then HP44 & JK44. Always upgrade to Jana 54 if needed. If you didn't care about fullwidth could also build a FJ80/9.5 front, it brings the beef.
 
Run the 44 you just picked up, throw some spacer adapters on my old 8.8 you have and be done. [emoji106]

I beat then crap out of that axle, but I only had a hamster under the hood.
 
broncosbybart said:
@jeepinmatt - my vote would be to sell it and buy one already done. It's only a wrangler after all. :)
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I'd love to have a Bronco, but they are kind of like an Iphone: simple, decent hardware, WAAAAY overpriced :p
 
jeepinmatt said:
High pinion is stronger driving forward, low pinion is stronger when backing up. Otherwise no real difference other than the pinion location. Somewhere there's a thread or two where I go into detail about it, but I can't seem to find it. I personally prefer low pinion front because of the weight distribution. If going uphill forwards, you'll be light on the frontend. If going uphill backwards, you'll be heavy on the frontend, which is when you want strength in the R&P.

When trying to find the thread, I stumbled across this advice I gave to someone, which seems humorous in light of the current thread:
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While strength is a consideration, the packaging takes precedence here for me... I have to fit the starter, exhaust, and driveshaft all down the same side of the transmission. In fact, not only LP, but the shorter the short side the better.



Though I'm not currently in the market for an upgrade on the axle side since I'm only looking at ~ 34" diameter tire, I am looking at what my options for the future might be since I'm looking at $$$ wheels now (I already run adapters) to not need to rebuy in the future. I could possibly see an upgrade to 37" some time if I got bored.
 
I'd let packaging dictate it. The strength difference is really not that critical.
 
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