Demi-Jeep

[badbsa]

x2 on the 4.3l. That jeep should have the short hood, so a v6 engine is likely the best bet. A 4.3l with the nv3500 would be a good driving combo for street and light wheeling.

Looking at the pictures, you might look at going to a 4" spring, unless you are planning SOA. The new springs will net you a little lift over the old ones, but I think the 33s will still be fairly tight fit. Also, I believe you will be limited to the narrow axles, if you are hoping to put the doors back on and have them slide open.

As for the previous picture, I hope you weren't offended. Your comment regarding the spacing was spot on... I was being sarcastic. We've been looking at photos of other jeeps with the wheel well modified and I'm leaning toward comp cutting the rear. I would like to eventually stretch the wheelbase out to alleviate the issues I'm sure to encounter with a super short driveshaft and make it a bit more stable.

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

As for the previous picture, I hope you weren't offended. Your comment regarding the spacing was spot on... I was being sarcastic. We've been looking at photos of other jeeps with the wheel well modified and I'm leaning toward comp cutting the rear. I would like to eventually stretch the wheelbase out to alleviate the issues I'm sure to encounter with a super short driveshaft and make it a bit more stable.

No offense here. I got the humor.

Also, I would not comp cut, as I dont prefer the look, but build it how your wife likes, her opinion is the only one that matters.

On the width piece. If you went full width, you could likely slide the doors open, inside the tire vs outside.

 

[badbsa]

In my effort to get this beast running, I ordered an HEI distributor, plugs, wires, oil, filter and marvel mystery oil. I also picked up a used battery from Autozone. It all came in on thursday.

United ignition wire 6516-3


My supervisor is a Nurse, so I robbed a syringe from her and shot a couple cc's of marvel mystery oil in each of the cylinders. I bypassed the solenoid and tried to turn the engine over. The wires heated up like a $10 dollar space heater from dollar general. With the starter locked up, I turned the engine over a few times via the fan. It rolls over smoothly and you can tell there is some compression there as you turn it. I plan to test the compression after the starter I ordered comes in. With the starter not working, I left the rest of it alone and moved on to tearing out shit that shouldn't be there like 12 feet of water hose for the heater. Sometime in this Jeeps life, the heater core must have gone bad and the solution was to put a coupler in the middle and leave the hose dangling underneath the thing. I had plans to be up early for a road trip anyway. The starter comes in Tuesday

Already having plans to visit Virginia for other business, I committed to a side trip adding a couple hours (ok, four) to the trip and picked up the CJ-7 axle from M&M used parts in Stafford. I worked with a wonderful woman named Lara who was very helpful, I would recommend them if you're in the area or are willing to make the trip. The axle is pretty rusted up and the seals are all garbage but, the differential input turns, the hubs turn, and the half-shafts turn. The Warn locking hubs are frozen however. Hopefully they'll be ok when I tear them down and rebuild them. I haven't looked at what the Warn warranty is to know if thats something I should even pursue if they are trashed.

Several of you have suggested I turn to a 4.3L chevy engine to repower this thing. I'm interested, but I don't know much about them. Is there a specific year I should be looking for? What will accommodate a passenger side drop? What is necessary to bolt this new engine in place? So. Many. Questions. The other option I'm interested in is replacing the existing unit with a 4.0 drivetrain. I don't know what would accommodate the passenger drop here either. One thing that has crossed my mind is finding the drivetrain from an old CJ to put in it.

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

Several of you have suggested I turn to a 4.3L chevy engine to repower this thing. I'm interested, but I don't know much about them. Is there a specific year I should be looking for? What will accommodate a passenger side drop? What is necessary to bolt this new engine in place? So. Many. Questions. The other option I'm interested in is replacing the existing unit with a 4.0 drivetrain. I don't know what would accommodate the passenger drop here either. One thing that has crossed my mind is finding the drivetrain from an old CJ to put in it.

I believe the issue you will have with the 4.0L or 4.2L is length. In the mid 70s they went to a long hood with the intro of the 258. Not saying it wont fit, just depends on how easy/bolt-on you want it to be. I would look at Novak's site and read on the different options. There is good info there to get you started: The Novak Conversions Knowledge Base Gateway

 

[badbsa]

I believe the issue you will have with the 4.0L or 4.2L is length. In the mid 70s they went to a long hood with the intro of the 258. Not saying it wont fit, just depends on how easy/bolt-on you want it to be. I would look at Novak's site and read on the different options. There is good info there to get you started: The Novak Conversions Knowledge Base Gateway

What an awesome resource! Thank you!

 

[YJJPWrangler]

In regards to your questions about the 4.3l, here is my limited knowledge. I'm currently running a 4.3l/SM420/D300 combo. The motor is a 91 with throttle body injection. The transmission/transfer case I bought off of the board here. I believe 1990 and down is the carb'd version. Pretty sure that 1996 was the year that the motors got vortec heads and went to fuel injection. I would look for one that is a TBI to minimize computer/wiring etc. I sent my harness out to Jim's Performance in Maryland to get cleaned up and tested. I have lots of pictures in my build thread on the board here(Tetanus Shot). I'm sure there are more knowledgeable members here on the 4.3L that will chime in.

 

[badbsa]

In regards to your questions about the 4.3l, here is my limited knowledge. I'm currently running a 4.3l/SM420/D300 combo. The motor is a 91 with throttle body injection. The transmission/transfer case I bought off of the board here. I believe 1990 and down is the carb'd version. Pretty sure that 1996 was the year that the motors got vortec heads and went to fuel injection. I would look for one that is a TBI to minimize computer/wiring etc. I sent my harness out to Jim's Performance in Maryland to get cleaned up and tested. I have lots of pictures in my build thread on the board here(Tetanus Shot). I'm sure there are more knowledgeable members here on the 4.3L that will chime in.

I did a little reading about d300’s and t18 transfer cases today. After reading through your entire build (That was fun!) I still don’t know where I stand for sure but, I’m beginning to lean toward the 4.3 route. I should know more by the end of the week regarding the existsing engine... Like I’ve said before, I’d like to get this thing driveable for the rest of the summer. Even just a little bit of puttering around in it would go a long way.

 

[scotch737]

Pre-'86 Toyota minitruck and 4runner axles would be pretty narrow - around 55" front and rear. Early CJ stuff would be narrow as well. Mid 90's Isuzu Rodeos have a 6 on 5.5 rear dana 44 about 58" wide with discs. Matches up well with a waggy front 44.

First off cool build. I have one of these Rodeo rears that I'm not using. I have all the parts for it. Only downer is the 4.10's are welded spiders. These also take thick cut gears. Long story, just believe me. I'll let it go for cheap if you decided to go that route. And I have plenty of 6 on 5.5 military rollers if you need any.

 

[badbsa]

So, the sawzall worked its magic and removed a bit of excess sheet metal from around the rear tires. There will eventually have to be another cut and smooth everything out to wrap the edge with trim rubber but for now, I am clearing the tires and can't rock the vehicle into the tread. Someday, new springs will help this as well.

As you can see from the side view, my $100 wheel and tire package leaves a bit to be desired...

When I cut wheel wells, I cut the exhaust off with a short stump from the header. When I did... acorns and bullshit. It had a few holes which could have cheaply patched up but, I could hear something rattling around and had my suspicions. I'm glad I chopped that nonsense off. The instructions from the HEI advised gapping to .45-.50 so, after a quick lesson on gapping spark plugs, my supervisor learned to install new plugs, wires, and an HEI distributor. (HEI: United ignition wire 6516-3, plugs: NGK GR4GP, Wires: Taylor Cable 74249) We wired the new distributor to the old power wire for the coil.

I had her fill the radiator, and then taught her to change the oil and filter. She also thought it was a good idea to add a bottle of Marvel mystery oil to the mix.

While not coaching her majesty, I installed a Holley might mite fuel pump and replaced the rubber hoses to the carburetor, bypassing the old mechanical pump. I didn't get a good photo of that, I'll have to take one after I move the damn thing... the tank is out, soaking in evapo-rust. In the process, I also pulled out the filler tube. When I bolted the new might mite into place, I put it right in the way of the fill tube. If you're wondering, the C-channel frame at the back is too narrow to put it in there and there wasn't another good place to stick it at the time. While the tank is still soaking, I dropped the pickup hose for the mighty mite into a gallon gas jug and wired it up to a toggle on the dash so the fuel pump can be isolated. Eventually this beast will get a complete rewire but, for now, it's running off a switched ignition wire into a toggle and down to the pump.

With fuel and electricity flowing, it was time to try the beast at running. I have a video of the second start after adjusting the timing but, it won't upload. Suffice it to say, SHE RUNS! The vacuum advance doesn't work (meh, whatever.) so the only real issue is the carburetor seems to be leaking from the accelerator pump or the bowl. OR the damn mighty mite is over pressurizing the carb. I might try a pressure regulator... rebuild kits for the carter YF are incomplete, and a new carb is around $200, which I don't want to spend. You guys are rapidly talking me into a 4.3 swap which is why I went with an electric fuel pump in the first place!

I've got questions, I'll post them in the next entry... I hope you guys have a little insight.

 

[badbsa]

So, the brakes are complete garbage in the mail jeep. We started out this project by literally beating the brakes off this beast. Somewhere in its life, the master cylinder was abandoned in its place and a booster, master cylinder and linkage was bolted in. Unfortunately, I have no idea what it came out of. If I can figure that out, I can replace the completely locked up master cylinder... if you know what this came out of, I'd appreciate the insight. I've been looking at part number cross-references and various websites but cannot figure out what this shit came from...

 

[Caver Dave]

If I can figure that out, I can replace the completely locked up master cylinder... if you know what this came out of, I'd appreciate the insight. I've been looking at part number cross-references and various websites but cannot figure out what this shit came from...

Your googlefoo must be broken... '70s Cuda
bendix 18268 - Google Search

 

[Caver Dave]

rebuild kits for the carter YF are incomplete

What do you think they're missing?

You guys are rapidly talking me into a 4.3 swap which is why I went with an electric fuel pump in the first place! .

Unfortunately, that Holley pump won't cut it on either the 4.3L TBI or CPI swaps... but will be fine to get the current mill running and use for fuel transfer later

 

[YJJPWrangler]

What @Caver Dave said about the fuel pump. If you are looking to go 4.3l, pick up a Carter P5000 inline pump. It's small enough to mount between the frame rails and flows more than enough for the TBI unit. Jeep is coming along great

 

[badbsa]

Your googlefoo must be broken... '70s Cuda
bendix 18268 - Google Search

I saw the 70’s barracuda stuff too... Am I silly to think I’ll find one that looks exactly like it? So many of he stampings are different and the Plymouth forums discuss these boosters all having the same Chrysler numbers but markedly different brake boosters... supposedly the Hemi vs non-hemi cars had a different bolt spacing.

I’ll ru with it and see if the cuda master cylinders are the same and will bolt up.

If it IS from a barracuda, does that mean I can call it a ‘Cuda now?

 

[badbsa]

What do you think they're missing?




Unfortunately, that Holley pump won't cut it on either the 4.3L TBI or CPI swaps... but will be fine to get the current mill running and use for fuel transfer later

Everything I found before was limited to needle and jet, o-rings for it, new pump and intake gasket. I just found a website called carburetor-parts.com. I think they have a complete kit... I have to get the numbers and verify it’s the right one.