Diesel FJ40, 1974FJ
- Thread starter 1974FJ
- Start date
Hydroboost system is complete....took some work but i got it...
This is the original pin that connects the brake booster and brake pedal.
With the hydroboost system, i needed a different pin to make it work since this system had a different arm.
This is the original LC pin in the hydroboost system arm. Hard to see in the picture but the pin is far to small and its too wide to actually reuse. so i had to turn a new pin that would work..
new pin:
This is the original pin that connects the brake booster and brake pedal.
With the hydroboost system, i needed a different pin to make it work since this system had a different arm.
This is the original LC pin in the hydroboost system arm. Hard to see in the picture but the pin is far to small and its too wide to actually reuse. so i had to turn a new pin that would work..
new pin:
This new pin will not use the cotter pin design, rather it is threaded and i have a ny-loc nut for it(3/8th 16). the first shoulder past the threads is for the brake pedal, the second is for the hydroboost arm(not turned to the exact size to allow it to move side to side, keeps it from binding). then the large shoulder with the flat sides is for holding the arm on and for holding while i tighten the nut, and ofcoarse the last section is to hold the brake pedal spring. Works great! very happy..
Well fellas, I got a little creative on my exhaust mounting flange. The hy35w has two different turbine housings depending on the year. Mine has a 4.5" opening that a 45* elbow bolts too. This elbow reduces to a 3.5 exhaust. Problem here is that the elbow only accepts a 3.5 exhaust with a v-band flange that is almost impossible to come by. I could order a downpipe for the dodge year turbo i have and that would give me the flange but it is way too expensive.
So instead, i took the lathe and came up with this...
This is the elbow that my new flange will replace...
you can see how it has the same v-band flange like the elbow does so it can be mounted directly to the back of the turbo.
So instead, i took the lathe and came up with this...
This is the elbow that my new flange will replace...
you can see how it has the same v-band flange like the elbow does so it can be mounted directly to the back of the turbo.
The flange will reduce the 4.5" opening on the exhaust housing to a 3.5" dia. I left some on the flange to have a nice weld shoulder. The inside of the flange is tapered as to not induce alot of turbulence.
here is how it fits on the housing..
with the band on, you can see the transition from 4.5" to 3.5" here.
here is how it fits on the housing..
with the band on, you can see the transition from 4.5" to 3.5" here.
As of today, all three of my pedals are accounted for!!!!
I got my clutch master cylinder buttoned up. The master cylinder im running is for a dodge cummins truck. Reason for doing so is b/c the fj40s MC isnt large enough for the dodge clutch and throw-out bearing im running. This dodge MC is a 7/8th bore.
It was fairly easy to bolt up, it didnt have the same bolt pattern as the cruiser obviously but the shaft would work as is. this dodge MC has two studs coming out of it, which is completely different that the land cruisers. So i made a plate that would allow me to bolt the dodge MC to it then be able to bolt both the plate and dodge MC to the firewall via the three original mounting holes.
Firewall,
Mounting plate (the paint looks like crap b/c i milled this out with raw steel, i mean i could have cleaned it up.........
)
The back side(hole milled to allow for the stud of the MC and its washer and nut)
The 7/8th bore Dodge MC. That rubber boot came off the Land Cruiser MC.....now thats clutch..
I got my clutch master cylinder buttoned up. The master cylinder im running is for a dodge cummins truck. Reason for doing so is b/c the fj40s MC isnt large enough for the dodge clutch and throw-out bearing im running. This dodge MC is a 7/8th bore.
It was fairly easy to bolt up, it didnt have the same bolt pattern as the cruiser obviously but the shaft would work as is. this dodge MC has two studs coming out of it, which is completely different that the land cruisers. So i made a plate that would allow me to bolt the dodge MC to it then be able to bolt both the plate and dodge MC to the firewall via the three original mounting holes.
Firewall,
Mounting plate (the paint looks like crap b/c i milled this out with raw steel, i mean i could have cleaned it up.........
)The back side(hole milled to allow for the stud of the MC and its washer and nut)
The 7/8th bore Dodge MC. That rubber boot came off the Land Cruiser MC.....now thats clutch..
Now for the throttle.
If you have seen the fj40 pedal assembly you would understand the complications of making it work for something other than the LC carbs. I was able to come up with something that works well. I picked up a throttle cable kit from the "ricers" section of autozone that was perfect! I also picked up a 1/2 rubber hose to cover this braided hose because the hose is really close to my motor and starter.
This black plastic piece comes with the kit and works PERFECT for the original bracket that comes off the injection pump of the 4bt.
The bracket i made off the firewall to hold this throttle cable.
Ready to roll the coal...
If you have seen the fj40 pedal assembly you would understand the complications of making it work for something other than the LC carbs. I was able to come up with something that works well. I picked up a throttle cable kit from the "ricers" section of autozone that was perfect! I also picked up a 1/2 rubber hose to cover this braided hose because the hose is really close to my motor and starter.
This black plastic piece comes with the kit and works PERFECT for the original bracket that comes off the injection pump of the 4bt.
The bracket i made off the firewall to hold this throttle cable.
Ready to roll the coal...
Well, i spent my saturday with a grinder and welder in my hand. I finially made the trac-bar!
I ordered some bushing and a ball joint from ballistic fab, sweet stuff! and then i started cutting and fabin'. I First had to make a rear crossmember. I wanted it close to the output of the t-case but i also wanted it removable too. So this is what i came up with... 2"x.250wall with a bend i made for the output
I ordered some bushing and a ball joint from ballistic fab, sweet stuff! and then i started cutting and fabin'. I First had to make a rear crossmember. I wanted it close to the output of the t-case but i also wanted it removable too. So this is what i came up with... 2"x.250wall with a bend i made for the output
I wanted to make a truss for the rear axle but decided it wouldn't look right, so i came up with something that has an original look(in a backwards upside-down kinda way). I used the idea of the fj60 and fj80 axle housing mini-truss that they have welded on the bottom side of their axles and made my own to weld to the top. This also gives me more to weld too for my trac-bar bracket.
I made one of these for both sides but i didnt get it welded on yet...
I made one of these for both sides but i didnt get it welded on yet...
I got my rear hard brake lines done! im pleased. I borrowed a tube bender and a flaring tool to complete this but im pleased. I also had to run the brake lines to the master cylinder too, Im tired of brake lines now!. I mocked up the shock mounts but im going to move the rear shackle hanger so i may move the shock mounts aswell.
Im getting closer.....moved out of my tiny little shop to clean all that grinding dust that is everywhere!!!!!
Wanted to share this photo of what southerncruiser62 and i spotted one day in raleigh, pretty funny and it appeared to be well done.
The body work has started. I got my CCOT panels in at the end of last week and couldnt wait to get started. I read the directions from CCOT and sorta followed what they suggest. I ended up dilling out both the wheelwell resistant-spot-welds and the spotwelds on the upper flange where they tell you to cut through. I did this so i could used that upper flange to clamp my panels for a even surface. Took alot of guess work out...easy too. I have since fully welded the panels one both sides. What i plan to do now is similar to what mtweller has done. He has also run the 55 rear springs and with the stock fenders he cut the rear curved section out and moved it farther back. Ill post pictures when i get to that but it basically looks like the factory opening but is longer to accept the extended wheelbase. I just hope i can do as nice a job as he has.
Before i could get going on the panels i had to completely repair my rear seal. It was in pretty foul shape. its not in showroom shape now either but lets be honest, this this isnt showroom quality. Nothing body filler cant hide.....haha
Before i could get going on the panels i had to completely repair my rear seal. It was in pretty foul shape. its not in showroom shape now either but lets be honest, this this isnt showroom quality. Nothing body filler cant hide.....haha
Ill have to take more pictures but i also completed the exhaust! 3.5" from turbo to tailpipe! so pumped with how it turned out. I understand its going to be an issue to keep my feet cool but i feel confident that i can make it bearable(i think, lol)
I couldnt see paying someone to bend me up some exhaust when i would want to spend more time doing it right than any exhaust fabricator around here would care to spend, trust me i know! Also, i wanted complete mandrel bends(3.5" across any cross section of the radius) for the best flow since i realized an intercooler was out of the question. Most muffler shop benders cant bend that large of pipe and if they could it would be very distorted and wrinkly. YES, i realize it not that necessary for the 3.5" exhaust but if i can run it....why not. It will help me with egts alittle..I got a volvo intercooler from local salvage yard in great shape but i would have to modify the front grill WAY TO MUCH, i couldnt handle that. So for now im going to hope for the best and run the wide open exhaust with 3" intake plumbing in hopes i dont see too high of temps...Always something that can be fixed later..
To find this tubing, i took it off a early model powerstroke(the rusted section of tubing) and the rest came from a mack truck(v12 gasser that had 3.5" tubing that was coated so its in much better shape. So ive got a Frankenstein exhaust that consist of about 20 sections, haha. Its all tacked together now but will be fully welded tomorrow morning. teaser photo
I couldnt see paying someone to bend me up some exhaust when i would want to spend more time doing it right than any exhaust fabricator around here would care to spend, trust me i know! Also, i wanted complete mandrel bends(3.5" across any cross section of the radius) for the best flow since i realized an intercooler was out of the question. Most muffler shop benders cant bend that large of pipe and if they could it would be very distorted and wrinkly. YES, i realize it not that necessary for the 3.5" exhaust but if i can run it....why not. It will help me with egts alittle..I got a volvo intercooler from local salvage yard in great shape but i would have to modify the front grill WAY TO MUCH, i couldnt handle that. So for now im going to hope for the best and run the wide open exhaust with 3" intake plumbing in hopes i dont see too high of temps...Always something that can be fixed later..
To find this tubing, i took it off a early model powerstroke(the rusted section of tubing) and the rest came from a mack truck(v12 gasser that had 3.5" tubing that was coated so its in much better shape. So ive got a Frankenstein exhaust that consist of about 20 sections, haha. Its all tacked together now but will be fully welded tomorrow morning. teaser photo
Finished up my intake plumbing. I went with the 3inch tubing i had gotten from mooktank awhile back. Turned out real nice. I made it like this because there wasnt enough room to go over the motor.
I got my hoses from Intercooler Pipe Fabrication - Silicone Intake Systems Auto Parts and they have great prices and extremely fast shipping. Not sure why i went with blue.....but i dig it!
Got my welds ground down, ready to relocate the wheelwell cut out and then time for some herculiner!
I got my hoses from Intercooler Pipe Fabrication - Silicone Intake Systems Auto Parts and they have great prices and extremely fast shipping. Not sure why i went with blue.....but i dig it!
Got my welds ground down, ready to relocate the wheelwell cut out and then time for some herculiner!
Used the hoist to work on the belly of the cruiser. Stripped all the original liner and mud off the bottom to get ready for the bed liner. I had alot more rust holes than i thought, so my dad and I spent a good bit of time repairing those. Im headed home again next weekend for labor day and I plan to spray the belly.
