Disc brake dragging- 1995 f250

ProbablyBroke

ProbablyBroke

does not torque to spec
Joined
Nov 7, 2012
Location
Reidsville
I have a 1995 f250 that I’m having problems with brakes dragging. I just put new calipers, rotors and pads on the front. The old calipers were dragging as well and I thought they were due to be replaced. I have bled the system at the calipers and wheel cylinders.

I have driven the truck for 5-10 minutes and temps on the rotors are up to 250F. When the tire is off the ground, I can spin it one revolution with one good push. I have cracked the bleeders and it doesn’t release the caliper. I need suggestions, as I need the truck this weekend.

Thanks!
 
Those were my next thing to throw money at. I figured it if it was a blockage in the soft lines, the caliper would have retracted when I cracked the bleeder.
 
ProbablyBroke said:
Those were my next thing to throw money at. I figured it if it was a blockage in the soft lines, the caliper would have retracted when I cracked the bleeder.
Click to expand...
In my halfass understanding of brake function the booster (hydro or vacuum) causes the “drawback” of the caliper and if the lines are collapsing it won’t allow reverse flow to retract the caliper.

like I said though, someone else should chime in and tell me I’m stoopid.
 
Where'd the calipers come from? I've seen some bad remans recently from both adv and napa.

How are the caliper slides, or any pad abutment clips? New or crusty? Did you grease the slides and places where the pads have to move?

Usually a soft line bad will release when you crack the bleeder. If it's no different then the soft lines are probably ok. Is the truck 4 wheel or rear abs? I've seen abs units fail and hold pressure at the line, but again cracking a bleeder released it.

If it's still stuck after opening a bleeder then it's a caliper or pad/hardware sticking. The only things that release a disc caliper are the square cut o rings flexing back and slight runout on the rotor. If the caliper or hardware is too tight the oring can't move it back.

Dad's 06 2500 Chevy tow rig started dragging front brakes enough to pull an the only issue was rust buildup under the stainless steel shim/abutment clip causing the pad to stick instead of slide. I pulled the shim, lightly filed it and reassembled and it's fine. I've seen it at work plenty too. And Dad's truck is rust free, never been to the beach or up north and he rarely drives in ice or snow other than the 2 days a year we get it here in Fayetteville.
 
Considering what has been said so far, I might need to crack the bleeder with the motor running to supply retraction.
All the parts are from advance. Because I’m cheap and shop coupons. The abutment clips are all new. The slides between caliper and mount slide freely. My abs light has been on since 2015.
 
My understanding has always been that a bad master cylinder wouldn’t hold pressure, because it wouldn’t make pressure. Correct me if I’m wrong
 
The soft lines can delaminate internally and restrict flow. 1500psi from the master cylinder can overcome it, but they won't retract all the way.
 
I picked up left and right soft lines from Napa. Installed them in the rain. Brakes are still dragging. Even with the caliper disconnected from any brake line, it’s still clamping the rotor.
 
Tim C said:
Where'd the calipers come from? I've seen some bad remans recently from both adv and napa.

Did you grease the slides and places where the pads have to move?

Usually a soft line bad will release when you crack the bleeder. If it's no different then the soft lines are probably ok.

If it's still stuck after opening a bleeder then it's a caliper or pad/hardware sticking.


The only things that release a disc caliper are the square cut o rings flexing back and slight runout on the rotor. If the caliper or hardware is too tight the oring can't move it back.
Click to expand...


Once again all this^

Soft lines or master cylinder would have released when you opened a bleeder so I knew that wasn't it.

I can't remember exactly how 95 f250 calipers are set up but can the pads move easily in the caliper bracket with the caliper off? If the pads don't slide freely on the shims or abutment clips then they won't release.

Does it turn free with no caliper, I've seen people overtighten the crap out of wheel bearings and that'll build heat too, just generally not as much as a stuck caliper.

If it turns free with no caliper and the pads move freely the caliper maybe bad.

If there was any hydraulic problem opening a bleeder will instantly fix it. If it's dragging with bleeder open it's mechanical not hydraulic.
 
I’ll double check the brake pads in the caliper and maybe do some filing to reduce friction. I’ll feel 340$ stupid if that’s what gets be rolling.
 
Proportioning valve?
 
I'm currently about to tackle this problem on my dump truck.
 
Are both front wheels dragging, or just one?
 
I’ve been banging my head against this thing all day. Cracked the line at master cylinder the pads still drag. I spoke to a mechanic who said to switch from a semi metallic pad to a ceramic. I don’t see how it could change anything. I don’t know what to do short of returning the calipers and getting another pair of remans. Readjusted the rear drums in case the proportioning valve was pushing more pressure to the front. Bled the system.
 
Just drive that thing. It’ll either work itself out after 500 miles our you got a problem. If it’s a slight graze, drive it. If it’s getting hot, swap calipers.
 
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