Do-it-yourself fuel injection

As long as your return line is big enough you can run a higher pressure pump. I have the e2000 on mine which is for a ford bronco or f150 in the late 80s. Its capable of something like 70 psi if deadheaded, but it only runs 13.5 on my tbi. Other than the stock piece of return coming from the tbi unit which is 5/16", my return lines are 3/8, same as the feed line. Course, my pump is inline, not in tank, but the point is you can run a higher pressure pump if its cheaper, and more importantly easier to find. For example the e2000 pump is in stock at the oreilly in harlan last I checked, which means if it dies, i can run to town and be wheeling that afternoon, not waiting two days on a pump.

Im running a swirl pot or accumulator set up also. If you have an in tank pump with baffles, or walbro pickups then you don't have to worry, but I have no baffles in my fuel cell, so I set my system up this way so it doesn't stall when the tank is low. I have a carter 4070 pump feeding the surge tank, and the e2000 feeding from that.

That pump should work just fine. Looks like the e2000 is a direct swap anyway, which is good news if you need it on the trail.
 
Interesting... the part about the E2000 being stocked in all stores got my attention. I had my AZ parts man double-check and you are 100% correct regarding availability. Every AZ store in the area has one in stock. That said, I brought an E2000 home with me and I an going to give it a try... maybe tomorrow pending weather. I really appreciate the advice guys! I'm sure I will be back for more. :)
 
Granny said:
Since I'm a diehard Linux guy, my ole buddy JC said he is donating me an old laptop that I can put Windoze on and run WinALDL from it. I don't have that yet
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Why didn't you say so! I've got a couple (crapped batteries, so have to run on inverted power) you're more than welcome to use...

Granny said:
The E2000 pump put my fuel pressure dead nuts on 12 psi... perfect! :)
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Not exactly... the fuel pressure regulator sitting atop your throttle body is keeping your fuel pressure at 12# and bleeding any excess (pressure & flow) back thru the return! :D
Wouldn't matter if the pump was putting 20# or 150#, like Tim said, if your return is amply sized you'll have no problems. A side benefit is the circulating fuel helps cool the TB/injectors... let the engine come up to temp, reach in & touch the TB/injectors to see for yourself!:bounce:
 
I cant help you there ... Yet. I plan on buying the tuning equipment in a month or so, but mine runs well enough to wheel that it isn't a priority. I believe carver dave has the knowhow though based off his thread at binder planet. He should be able to point you in the right direction at least.
 
Don, I visited Doug Herbert's, place couple weeks ago[Hwy 29 near Speedway]. They have an engine dyno, & told me a place up the street, has a chassis dyno. Not positive, but think they said the chassis dyno guys, could do a chip. Pretty sure they get Top $, for their work, too!
 
Granny said:
I know this has also been discussed before, but who all has the resources to reprogram the chips?
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My Moates "BurnII" will burn them, just can't erase them (EPROMs require UV light to erase them) though I've heard an hour or 2 in the sunshine with the "label" peeled off will do pretty well ;)

For numerous reasons, I skipped right over the OEM chips:
  • Larger capacity (ability to hold multiple tunes), *MUCH* cheaper, & more readily available ($15 for 15 *SHIPPED*) 27SF512 E(lectronically)E(raseable)PROMs
  • $10 for a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) socket to modify the ECM to accept the 27SF512's
  • I NEVER have to putz with those (obviously the Devils Spawn) OE chips or carriers again (chip/tune changes take seconds with the ZIF)
Oh, sorry... I can burn them :D
 
OK!!! JC fixed me up with a used laptop. I have XP Pro and WinALDL installed on it. I bought a USB to serial adapter, and today I made up the cable. Tomorrow, if it doesn't get too windy, I hope to get primer on my roll cage. After that, maybe, hook up the ALDL and see if I can make sense of it all. I'll post again when I know more. Tim C & Caver Dave... thanks again!!! :beer: (no root beer this time) :lol:
 
Hooked the laptop up to the ALDL today. Everything looks to doing something. If only I knew what it was supposed to be doing????????????? :confused:

I can read the values that WinALDL displays, but I don't have any reference to compare them to. What should I be looking for? ThanX again. :)
 
OK... this may be a dumb question, but here goes anyway..... can I log the data while just sitting & idling, or do I need to be actually driving the vehicle up and down the road? I ask that because I still dont have any seats in the vehicle, and the cage is out of it. I have drove it while sitting on a stool, but it's hard on the arse... and without a cage (windshield frame is off too) it don't feel good.
 
You're gonna need to drive it at least 30 minutes to log properly, you want to fill as many cells on the blm table as possible. You want to vary the rpm and the loads as much as you can.
 
Again I say thank you!!! That's what I needed to know... BLM & 30 minutes actual driving. OK... the laptop battery has seen better days. I have a new one on order... supposed to be here Friday 26th. Since I don't have an extension cord long enough to handle 30 minutes of driving I will pick up on the data logging later. In the meantime... do a dry-dance for me... I need this damned rain and wind to stop long enough so I can spray some paint. :lol:
 
You can buy a cheap invertor from walmart that plugs into the cigar lighter for less than 30 bucks, thats what I use. And id drive at least 30, but the more you drive and on varying terrain, and city highway type driving too the more complete your data will be.
 
Inverter... good idea!... never gave it a thought. I got one in the camper shell on the truck. The next nice day, that's not nice enough to paint, I might just take the old girl for a ride. If I wear sunglasses, I guess the only thing I could get pulled for would be seatbelts. There's lots of backroads around where I live... not real risky. :)
 
Maybe you missed it when I offered the use of a laptop that required the use of an inverter (because the battery is kaput)? :p

Even idling/unloaded revving will get you some info/confirm that all your components are "talking"...
  • CTS should be close to what your temp gauge/infrared says
  • TPS should be in spec at idle (also test with KOEO to make sure it's reading correctly at WOT)
  • IAC is moving unrestricted (should be fine since you cleaned the TB up beforehand)
  • Voltage should stay consistent (the SI style were bad about spiking = death for the ECM)
  • Air/Fuel ratio should be slightly rich from Stoic (lean is bad)
I have a short-loop & long-loop I used for data collecting... the short is typically low speed, stop & go driving in thru the neighborhood & in-town. The longer loop is the same with about 10 miles of highway (very hilly run up 52N) thrown in. The Moss isn't conducive to lots of high speed (65+) runs, so the little I did was fine...

When you SAVE the data, save ALL the tables...
 
Wow... had to go back 5 pages to dig this one back up. I got a new problem. I decided to take the YJ out the road this afternoon. I didn't go 1/4 mile until the engine light came on. Turned around and went back home to check for codes. I'm getting a code 24 which indicates a problem with the VSS... which I don't have... this wire has been cut. I drove it (farther) several times a month or so ago and did not have any problems. I can also feel that it's not running worth a crap. So tell me, Gurus... what do I need to do? :eek:
 
Granny said:
I'm getting a code 24 which indicates a problem with the VSS... which I don't have... this wire has been cut. I drove it (farther) several times a month or so ago and did not have any problems. I can also feel that it's not running worth a crap. So tell me, Gurus... what do I need to do? :eek:
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It probably didn't come on before just cause it takes so much driving time to realize the vss isn't working. VSS shouldn't affect normal running how ever it will mess with EGR (if you're running one) and idle functions. The running problems you can diagnose like you normally would, but you'll probably need to do some tuning to get it running good. If you're not planning on doing a VSS, then you can turn it off in the tune so it wont throw that code or make the light come on.

I'm actually running a VSS on my truck but the junkyard sensor froze up once in URE and started throwing a code, I stalled more on that trip than ever, the smallest rock and the truck wouldn't idle over like normal. I've got a later model (around 1990) VSS and speedo cable from a F250 in my tcase, with a convertor box to give the ECM the right signal (Ford VSS is 8 pulse per cable revolution, GM TBI wants to see 2 PPR). Supposedly around 25 MPH the computer will run the IAC motor in to zero it and then back it out to its standard rest position will driving, sort of recalibrating the IAC as you drive.

Lots of people don't run the VSS when they do the TBI swap, so it's not necessary at all, I just like having everything working like factory. If you decided to hook up a VSS you can probably get one from Jagsthatrun.com that may screw into a factory cable. That I think is why mine has been so drivable with out tuning for the last two years, but I just got my box from Moates yesterday, and spent this morning soldering a zif socket on a spare computer. Im finally gonna fix my lean acceleration stumble, and bump the idle from 550 to 750 or 800, since that's where I had it with the carb.
 
Tim , I appreciate the info! From what I have read on various forums I assumed the VSS could programmed out, but really haven't seen anything that definitely said so. On that subject you have eased my mind. It does appear I have something gone (recently) out of whack though. My next project is to get an exhaust system put on it. The racket from the straight pipe about drives me crazy. After that I will do the data logging and dow whatever tuning needs to be done. Caver has offered to do my chip. Since he's the closest I'll probably take him up on it... if he doesn't get cantankerous and change his mind on me. :lol:
 
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