Dodge w150 (1986) conservative build

unbrokenchain

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Black Mountain NC
Just got this a week or two ago, haven't done a thing but look at it, run it, and make plans. I work in some pretty remote mountain areas, odd labor jobs, firewood, etc. Looking to build a utility vehicle that can get up some rutted old logging roads and still look halfway decent around town. Daily driver is an '05 Subaru with 300k which does far, far better than any car I've ever owned. But it doesn't haul much... Anyway, here's what I'm starting with.
IMG_0657[1].JPG
 
This is basically a dream build for me, but I would never (in my foreseeable future) have a need for such a vehicle. Aside from the fact that I would build mine on a bump or dent side Ford, I would do:

12v Cummins, or some hybrid of 24/12.
5spd Trans
3 speed Atlas
Tons w/ Selectables

Strength and durability with the engine and drivetrain, gearing options with the atlas. I want to build it SO BAD.
 
Yep that's pretty much my dream setup for this thing... right now I'm just going to focus on suspension (those front leaves are perfectly flat...) and making it safe. Brakes do stop it but are not confidence-inspiring, at all. I drove it home from Hickory and the steering was. Sketch. Any looser and I'd have towed it. Had to use two feet with the auto trans to keep it alive.

Planning to re-do fuel and brake lines, brush paint the frame, get some leaf springs that will give me a little lift and accommodate a Cummins eventually. Going to run this 318/auto trans until I break it, hopefully that's at least a little while away :laughing: A little weep from the front main and valve cover gaskets are weeping hard, but it doesn't really smoke and sounds good (until it dies).
 
This is how close I am to the bumpstops when sitting almost flat (both pics truck is in the same spot, spring is driver's side front).

Anyone here ever use leaf springs from Rock Auto? Considering getting some replacements there.

Also, is it generally safe to run a flexible (rubber) fuel line as the main line from tank to pump? Input welcome, I'm going to replace every part of the fuel system except the tank, which I'll take off and clean out..
 

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In case you couldn't tell from the rock auto pics, there wasn't much arch in the springs when new. If you're planning on bigger than 33's without cutting the fenders I'd go ahead and plan for a lift. But for stock replacements I've used sdtrucksprings.com before.

Duane
 
unbrokenchain said:
This is how close I am to the bumpstops when sitting almost flat (both pics truck is in the same spot, spring is driver's side front).

Anyone here ever use leaf springs from Rock Auto? Considering getting some replacements there.

Also, is it generally safe to run a flexible (rubber) fuel line as the main line from tank to pump? Input welcome, I'm going to replace every part of the fuel system except the tank, which I'll take off and clean out..
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As far as the fuel line it can be done but my preference is to minimize the amount of rubber. Also the newer ethanol mixed fuel tend to degrade the rubber hose faster
 
CLRracer said:
In case you couldn't tell from the rock auto pics, there wasn't much arch in the springs when new. If you're planning on bigger than 33's without cutting the fenders I'd go ahead and plan for a lift. But for stock replacements I've used sdtrucksprings.com before.

Duane
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Heard that, I was hoping that the heavier weight springs (there are two classes showing for w150) would give me some lift... looking for 2” or so over stock, enough that I can fit 33x12.5. Got plenty of things to work on without messing with driveshaft angles and steering clearance just yet:laughing:, from research so far it seems like 4” is where it starts to get complicated, but all the lift springs I can find are 4” or higher. I’d add leaves to the existing springs but not sure it’d help much without any arch..
 
I ran 33's on my stock ramcharger for years as a kid. Wheeled the mess out of it. Then did a cheapo warn add a leaf
 
From what I understand they can be made to work, but not a bolt-on unfortunately. That’d be nice, the Chevy springs are like half the price of Dodge for whatever reason. Found some 2 inch lift springs at Summit, may go that route though still learning about options.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Not sure what the dimensions are, but will chevy leafs work? They might offer more options?
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Looks like the Dodges are 24x24 and the Chevy are 23.5x23.5 both are 2.5. Also there are two options for the dodhe fronts, 1400 and 1900 lbs. Judging by your pictures you have the 1400 (3 vs 6 leaves)

1972 - 1993 Dodge Truck Leaf Springs | General Spring

Buy replacement leaf springs for your Dodge Truck D100, 1500, 200, 2500, & Plymouth Trailduster. Order rear leaf springs online today!
www.generalspringkc.com www.generalspringkc.com
 
Monkeynono said:
Looks like the Dodges are 24x24 and the Chevy are 23.5x23.5 both are 2.5. Also there are two options for the dodhe fronts, 1400 and 1900 lbs. Judging by your pictures you have the 1400 (3 vs 6 leaves)

1972 - 1993 Dodge Truck Leaf Springs | General Spring

Buy replacement leaf springs for your Dodge Truck D100, 1500, 200, 2500, & Plymouth Trailduster. Order rear leaf springs online today!
www.generalspringkc.com www.generalspringkc.com
Click to expand...
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Righto, so if I get new stock 1900lb leaves, that should give a pretty good height boost yeah?
 
I've heard from several people that Chevy front springs will work, and like @Monkeynono said they are only a half in shorter on paper. I have seen some specs say they are 2.5 wide and some say they are 2.75 wide though. Personally I've never tried it. I have always cleared 33x12.50s on all of my stock trucks, occasionally one would rub the fenders if the wheel offset was farther out. Skyjacker does make a ~2in lift spring for the front, or you could also get a set of zero rates for 1in lift. For the factory 6 vs 3 leaf pack the 6 leaf is thicker, but has a little less arch, so you will end up with some lift but not a lot. Anything would be noticeable though since your springs have a negative arch in them now lol.

Duane
 
The heavier springs were usually used under the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, but I've seen half tons with 6 leaves and one tons with 3 lol. Your truck probably has 3.23 gears (most common ratio in my experience) but may have something a little lower, either way it should be ok with 33's. I've had auto trucks with 3.23 and 3.55s with 33's and never had any issues wheeling or DDing.

Duane
 
An add a leaf is the cheapest way to go in the front, they are a pain to install though. Mine really didn't ride any worse for the extra leaf either and my stock springs looked inverted like yours too. Lots of dodge guys run stock rear springs in the front. Take a leaf out or two and move your spring hanger forward 1.5" I think. This give a you more room behind the tire and inside the fender for running larger tires. You have to trim the bottom off the front of the fender though. Then move the steering gear box forward to the 2wd position using the factory holes and you're all set. If you run cross over steering you'll have to move the box to the 2wd location anyway.

Im seriously considering selling my old ramcharger (it'll be a hard sad day) and I'd hate to see it parted out. But it's got a warn winch bumper, 6" skyjacker softrides up front with maybe 5 miles on them. The rear is 63" chevy springs with custom rear shackle hangers. It rides and flexes really well. It has a 440 in it that I'm keeping, but you could drop in the 318 from your w150 and it'll bolt up. It's crrently on 38" boggers. If you're or @CLRracer are interested in discussing a deal pm me.
 
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Clubbs said:
An add a leaf is the cheapest way to go in the front, they are a pain to install though. Mine really didn't ride any worse for the extra leaf either and my stock springs looked inverted like yours too. Lots of dodge guys run stock rear springs in the front. Take a leaf out or two and move your spring hanger forward 1.5" I think. This give a you more room behind the tire and inside the fender for running larger tires. You have to trim the bottom off the front of the fender though. Then move the steering gear box forward to the 2wd position using the factory holes and you're all set. If you run cross over steering you'll have to move the box to the 2wd location anyway.

Im seriously considering selling my old ramcharger (it'll be a hard sad day) and I'd hate to see it parted out. But it's got a warn winch bumper, 6" skyjacker softrides up front with maybe 5 miles on them. The rear is 63" chevy springs with custom rear shackle hangers. It rides and flexes really well. It has a 440 in it that I'm keeping, but you could drop in the 318 from your w150 and it'll bolt up. It's crrently on 38" boggers. If you're or @CLRracer are interested in discussing a deal pm me.
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I need another project like I need another hole in the head but you can drop me some details if @unbrokenchain isn't interested.

Duane
 
Clubbs said:
An add a leaf is the cheapest way to go in the front, they are a pain to install though. Mine really didn't ride any worse for the extra leaf either and my stock springs looked inverted like yours too. Lots of dodge guys run stock rear springs in the front. Take a leaf out or two and move your spring hanger forward 1.5" I think. This give a you more room behind the tire and inside the fender for running larger tires. You have to trim the bottom off the front of the fender though. Then move the steering gear box forward to the 2wd position using the factory holes and you're all set. If you run cross over steering you'll have to move the box to the 2wd location anyway.

Im seriously considering selling my old ramcharger (it'll be a hard sad day) and I'd hate to see it parted out. But it's got a warn winch bumper, 6" skyjacker softrides up front with maybe 5 miles on them. The rear is 63" chevy springs with custom rear shackle hangers. It rides and flexes really well. It has a 440 in it that I'm keeping, but you could drop in the 318 from your w150 and it'll bolt up. It's crrently on 38" boggers. If you're or @CLRracer are interested in discussing a deal pm me.
Click to expand...

Man you should keep that... as much as I know that'd be ahell of a lot of fun, I need the bed for work and hauling. And I need to be able to reach into the back of it without a ladder haha. Is there something wrong with the frame that you'd want to part it out? Seems like it'd be better to sell it whole if it's already built.
 
unbrokenchain said:
Man you should keep that... as much as I know that'd be ahell of a lot of fun, I need the bed for work and hauling. And I need to be able to reach into the back of it without a ladder haha. Is there something wrong with the frame that you'd want to part it out? Seems like it'd be better to sell it whole if it's already built.
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Nothing wrong with the frame, I don't intend to part it out other than I would want to hold onto the 440.
 
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