Engineering help needed for camper

Willc

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2005
Location
Shelby
As many of you know I purchased this camper from a board member. With the height and the tongue and rear box, it is a bit hard to open by yourself. Well I had one hand near the hinge last week and it decided to close on its own. With one torn distal tendon and surgery I am one-armed for the next 12 weeks...
So I found these campers that open the same way and have talked to the company and they have agreed to sell me the struts to assist in opening. My questions are about mounting the struts at the proper angles. It appears to be close to 45 degrees but I can not get that much on the other side of the camper because of the rounded nose.
I also have the
PXL_20211014_145035461.jpg
gas strut numbers that no one can match up other than the force which they say is 180 pounds, the top at 45 degrees is about 50 pounds measured the best I could with a scale.
So will the angle need to be close as I can get it to 45 degrees?
Will one provide enough lift or do I need to double the force if I can use two?
Can anyone decode these numbers? If I use MM it seems small for the compressed length.
Video of how they would work and pics of camper and strut below
Thank you
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PXL_20211014_145035461.jpg299196367_1344303989312137_548033845454233865_n.jpg
 
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No matter what, double it to have a symmetrical force pushing on each side and it won't get cocked sideways during opening.

That also offers some kind of redundancy, in case you have one strut that shits the bed, it'll still be easier to open than doing it all by hand.
 
IF you take the sticker off I bet the oem part number is underneath. There is only a handful companies making them. Like stabilus, suspa, ACE, and the china knock offs. And the resellers are notorious for covering up the part #'s.

But in general to match it up to another one all you need the following.

Force which is 180 foot-pound or 245 newton/meters
Overall length ball socket to ball socket generally in MM
Compressed length generally in MM


As for mounting you always want the body or tube side up when its in the compressed state. As for angle if I remember correctly you the top ball socket to be about 1/3 the way up from your pivot point. The more angle the better, But you can make up the angle by changing the force. But its been a while so here are some better info. I


I will be honest when I worked there I just used the computer model, Then adjusted the mounting location to accommodate.
 
Make it simple, buy the longest one you can fit with the most stroke. This will net the most triangulated length you can manage once worked out. The closer to the vertical position with some compression will better force but the long lever of the platform cancels some of the benefit.

I'd more worry about what the strut mounts to. Plan the strut strength around this factor. I've never saw a situation more aggravating then the mount be far weaker then the needed strut force.

If you want more initial lift help less angle. If you want the help when it get higher and awkward more angle. As the platform lifts the arc of the strut changes as does the force applied in a given direction.
 
As the platform lifts the arc of the strut changes as does the force applied in a given direction.
the angle of the dangle is inversely proportional to the heat of the meat, provided that the maxis of the axis, and the gravity of the cavity, remain constant.
 
so if the angle is 30 instead of 45 equals more lifting force at the bottom. mounting will bein a three-bolt flinch plate design to spread the load
 
so if the angle is 30 instead of 45 equals more lifting force at the bottom. mounting will bein a three-bolt flinch plate design to spread the load
Think of it this way. If you push straight up anywhere on the frame all that force goes toward lift. If you push at any angle some of that force goes out rather than up. The reverse of the push is loaded in the pivot point soooo....we used struts for all sorts of applications. We could get holding force to keep a pull out tray shut, and aid in it's extension on the other side of a pivot point.
When needing really long strokes we would mount them back to back connected by a tube. Now we netted 24 or more inches of travel. We built some pull out trays that extended 3 or 4 feet from a cross lay cabinet.

Just like a shock or coil-over more angle equals less straight line force applied in perpendicular planes when working off a pivot point.
 
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