Engineering question

So you'd be looking at about 450 per truss, i think standard is 4:12 pitch which would give you 5' in the middle so 13'6. You can go steeper the price stays about the same.
 
So you'd be looking at about 450 per truss, i think standard is 4:12 pitch which would give you 5' in the middle so 13'6. You can go steeper the price stays about the same.

They quoted me over $900 per truss for 48', thing those are A-frame trusses, but he didn't mention a reduction in price to make them straight. How much are the purlin cups? Might make more sense to just buy the 48' ones here local.
 
So you'd be looking at about 450 per truss, i think standard is 4:12 pitch which would give you 5' in the middle so 13'6. You can go steeper the price stays about the same.

Which not sure if you looked at my picture in the first post, but I am not using A-frame trusses. Just a straight truss. It would take WAY too much grading to get the upper and lower containers to the same height, so I figure I will use the slope of the mountain to my advantage.
 
Your over thinking this.

Use purlin cups or cut some angle iron to use a clips on each side for the purlins, which I assume will be 2x6.
 
Your over thinking this.

Use purlin cups or cut some angle iron to use a clips on each side for the purlins, which I assume will be 2x6.

I have to think about it, I don't have a clue what I am doing! Lol. You mention a clips, not sure what that is but I did find 'purlin clips' which are pictured below. They are stinking expensive so that's not gonna happen, but it for me thinking, could I buy steel Z-purlins and just screw them down to the trusses with self tappers? Might go faster than welding on angle iron or purlin cups.
 
I have to think about it, I don't have a clue what I am doing! Lol. You mention a clips, not sure what that is but I did find 'purlin clips' which are pictured below. They are stinking expensive so that's not gonna happen, but it for me thinking, could I buy steel Z-purlins and just screw them down to the trusses with self tappers? Might go faster than welding on angle iron or purlin cups.

Just buy some purlin clips. They are like $1.25 each and bolt to the truss with a 1/2” bolt and use any other appropriate fastener for whatever purlin you use.

Or cheap out and cut some angle iron and do the same thing.
 
Just buy the R&R trusses if they are the same price. You'll come our miles ahead in the end. And if you set them at an angle instead of flat, there's actually less load on them, so it will be no issue.
 
They quoted me over $900 per truss for 48', thing those are A-frame trusses, but he didn't mention a reduction in price to make them straight. How much are the purlin cups? Might make more sense to just buy the 48' ones here local.

I had asked about 32ft, which have an additional 18" overhang on each side. They can make lean to trusses, i assumed it would be easier to not set one of the boxes up on barrier blocks like your pic. Will the inside of shop be level?
You'll be looking at about 1k-1200 more for that much extra purlin and roof material, unless you need to cover the tops of the shipping containers too
 
I had asked about 32ft, which have an additional 18" overhang on each side. They can make lean to trusses, i assumed it would be easier to not set one of the boxes up on barrier blocks like your pic. Will the inside of shop be level?
You'll be looking at about 1k-1200 more for that much extra purlin and roof material, unless you need to cover the tops of the shipping containers too

I can grade it to where in between the boxes might have a step down in the middle. The lower box will actually be sitting on blocks as well as a foundation for it. But to grade where they are all level would take a bunch of grading, plus then I have water coming off both sides, this way all the rainwater is shed on the downhill side. I want to cover the boxes so they last longer. I'll actually probably raise the roof some and use the tops of the containers to possibly store stuff that won't hurt to be outside (bumpers, etc).
 
So the concrete blocks serve a few functions. A cheap HEAVY foundation I can anchor the containers to, they keep the containers up off the ground, and give some height to make it high enough to fit the dozer under the roof. As you can see I had to cut about a 4-5' wall just to get the upper container level. Yes, I could have dug holes but it is easier to just dig the whole area out. The upper two blocks are set. I will sit the container on those two and then push the lower two in place and get the container level.

IMG_20211013_154121685_HDR.jpg
 
Well I found some metal to use as purlins. Went and picked up (12) 33' and (25) 26' pieces today, plus some various other material from him. They are 3"X5" galvanized, seem like they should be plenty strong, but bought on a whim because the price was cheap. I plan to space the trusses at 20' to only use 3 trusses, and space the purlins at 4'. This seems to be the norm (or actually overkill) for using steel purlins. Just going to weld them to the trusses.

Thinking about using the full 26' length and splicing the purlins together to avoid wasting 5' off each one. I can't overlap them but I could put them side by side and overlap a foot or so and weld them. Screw line on roofing metal would be off but who cares.

Have $850 in all the purlins and various other pieces to go with them.

Thoughts? Stupid idea? Suggestions?
 

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