Excavator bucket

WARRIORWELDING said:
View attachment 328703 View attachment 328704 View attachment 328705 View attachment 328706
Wait, y'all don't run your equipment til it looks like this?
Click to expand...
Well I bought this one for personal use and am just trying to get it in respectable shape for working on my land. I did have to rebuild the quick coupler and the end of the dipper. Someone replaced the factory pin when they added the thumb. The factory pin was drilled to deliver grease to the bushings so they drilled and tapped the end of the dipper. Problem is all the grease went up the arm and packed it full instead of going into the bushings.
0812201416.jpg
 
YotaOnRocks said:
Well I bought this one for personal use and am just trying to get it in respectable shape for working on my land. I did have to rebuild the quick coupler and the end of the dipper. Someone replaced the factory pin when they added the thumb. The factory pin was drilled to deliver grease to the bushings so they drilled and tapped the end of the dipper. Problem is all the grease went up the arm and packed it full instead of going into the bushings.
View attachment 328711
Click to expand...
It was sarcasm on my part. I have enjoyed this thread. The hydraulic conversation especially.
 
Since this thread is titled buckets......in up to my eyeballs in em right now.

1018201143a_HDR.jpg

Number four in last two days.
1018201143b_HDR.jpg

Few more coming.
 
Well got the boom and knuckle off, that was easy enough. Have to work 2nd today so I will start back on it in the AM. Hopefully getting the new bushings in won't be too bad.
 
Somebody buy this guy some colored zip ties. I hope you somehow marked your hoses..
 
Jeff B said:
Somebody buy this guy some colored zip ties. I hope you somehow marked your hoses..
Click to expand...
Works great until some fella you work with is color blind and stuff goes South and Backwards.
Been through that one before.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Works great until some fella you work with is color blind and stuff goes South and Backwards.
Been through that one before.
Click to expand...


Those guys get black Zip ties, a sharpie and Painters tape.
 
No pictures of it together since it was dark when we finished. Used dry ice and acetone to cool the bushings down. Worked well, was my first time trying it. Here is a pic of mine and @toyota231 little science experiment for the day.
1020201644_HDR.jpg
 
Bumping this up with another cylinder question. The thumb on my excavator is aftermarket, and the cylinder has developed a steady drip.

Is there an easy way to identify the cylinder so I can purchase a seal kit, the boom cylinder I did is working great so I hate to pay a shop if I can find the parts I need.
 
If there are no markings at all on the gland or cap end and that thumb manufacturer seems not to exist, you can take the cylinder apart and usually find the seals you need pretty easily, honestly it probably only needs the seals in the gland nut replaced. I just went through this with a werk brau thumb cylinder they wanted $300 for a seal kit for.
 
YotaOnRocks said:
Bumping this up with another cylinder question. The thumb on my excavator is aftermarket, and the cylinder has developed a steady drip.

Is there an easy way to identify the cylinder so I can purchase a seal kit, the boom cylinder I did is working great so I hate to pay a shop if I can find the parts I need.
Click to expand...
We have a hydraulic shop that I take mystery items to and they're good about piecing together seals on cylinders. Inline fluid power is their name. Not sure if they're franchised or just a local shop
 
YotaOnRocks said:
Bumping this up with another cylinder question. The thumb on my excavator is aftermarket, and the cylinder has developed a steady drip.

Is there an easy way to identify the cylinder so I can purchase a seal kit, the boom cylinder I did is working great so I hate to pay a shop if I can find the parts I need.
Click to expand...
If this is a screw on gland nut. Take the entire cylinder to a shop. I have seen those need 15k ftlbs of torque to lock them down on the bigger track hoes. If its held in by a circlip wont be bad.
 
Jeff B said:
If this is a screw on gland nut. Take the entire cylinder to a shop. I have seen those need 15k ftlbs of torque to lock them down on the bigger track hoes. If its held in by a circlip wont be bad.
Click to expand...
Looked like it has set screws on the gland nut so I'm assuming it unscrews like the one on my boom arm. You think it would be tighter than that one?
 
YotaOnRocks said:
Looked like it has set screws on the gland nut so I'm assuming it unscrews like the one on my boom arm. You think it would be tighter than that one?
Click to expand...
Post a pic?
 
Just here to say...dry ice and acetone works damn good! I use it a lot at work for shrinking bushings and bearings before install. Damn aint it a cold mixture!
 
braxton357 said:
That cylinder won't be hard to get apart, truthfully It looks like a run of the mill 2"ish bore welded crosstube cylinderyou could buy a whole new one for less than $150.
Click to expand...
Any recommendations on places to shop for one
 
braxton357 said:
I use parker for high end cylinders and you can spec about anything you want, port location rod and bore sizes, rod and base ends etcetera and they are high quality but not cheap. For this application I would use something from surplus center like this 2.25x19.56x1.25 DA Hydraulic Cylinder 3160-2063 | Double Acting Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
Click to expand...
Well thats extremely cheap I'll grab some measurements and do dome shopping, I appreciate everybody's help with this thing.
 
The cylinder od is 3.5 so I'm thinking 3" bore with 1.75 rod with 24"stroke. 32" collapsed with 1" pins. Didn't see anything at first glance that would work on surplus website.
 
Looks like a HDM cylinder. put a pipe wrench on that gland nut, probably will spin right off.
 
Back
Top