First time to try 44 or bigger in XJ on Budget

88jeepster

88jeepster

Jesus, Jannette & Jeeps for Life!
Banned
Joined
Feb 16, 2012
Location
Boone, NC
Ok so I'm really wanting to start to be able to go to some of these off-roading events but I know with my 8.25/D30 on 38s I am limited to what I can try so maybe after all these years of jeeping, I want to upgrade (on budget) to be more capable when I do make it out to one of the events somewhere in NC. What would be the easiest junk yard build around Boone, with the best bolt in setup? thank you
 
bj 60 would be same amount of work per say and have a stronger axle in the end. Only down side is they are gonna be wide, and the the cost will be more. End outcome will be much better. Look for some srw F-350s.
 
ohh yeah, if possible I would like to do front first and then rear later. I think I can make the 8.25 work for a while but that D30 I know if try something good with those swamper 38s, and have to drive back home, I ain't going to be able to hit nothing "fun" and not pop crap.
 
88jeepster said:
I'm stupid....what's an srw ford....never been outside Jeeps much so forgive me.
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SRW(single rear wheel) non dually one ton ford is what I'd look for to get axles out of. Id do both at the same time, xj's are leaf in the rear so swaping the rear is stupid easy, just have to cut off and weld on new perches, shock mounts and then brake lines and figure out a driveshaft. Best thing to do is grab the driveshafts out of the donor truck to use the pieces to either make shafts or have them made.
 
ohhhhhh, I feel......Purdy dumb right about now.....I've heard 70' models and 80s, broncos, now I don't want to sound like a fool but I had a 85 Full Size Bronco with 44 up front and 9" Rear on 38s to play with but sold it because I just never got to liking the low clearance on that big 9". don't get me wrong it was one bad ass truck that could really spin those 38s and not think twice about it but since I'm a sucker for mud ruts and such, I would get stuck/hung with that rear all the time so I got pissed off one day and sold the darn truck because my buddies with jeeps on 35s were passing right through what my rear got hung in. SO maybe I should redirect this thread to what's the strongest diff to run on my xj without sacrificing Ground Clearance which is main reason/only reason why I've never upgraded diffs because I love the ground clearance you get. are 60s not as low hanging as 9"?
 
Yikes.....so that would kinda be ruled out for now until I could afford way bigger tires for the 60s to compensate the loss in ground clearance. there diffs off a 94 f150 pretty cheap on CL, any good. is there a site/blog with a list of trucks that came with what so I'm not pounding you or anyone else with a million questions because I can guarantee one thing about attempting this build....there's going to be tons of questions on my end just hunting for the right stuff....once I were to find something to work I believe parked in driveway, especially if I get this new house with double the parking room, I would have plenty of time to start fabbing and welding. so I don't want to kill with questions of all the trucks and year models.
 
Redneck92 said:
60s have less ground clearance than 9s
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on a positive DREAM NOTE, my dream rig is XJ with 4.0L built, 1 Tons F&R locked, 231/300 Doubler, 44s or 46s with lowest lift possible...........that's what I dream of to beat on through anything :bling:
 
Built to shit hp44 and 9 inch should be ok on 38s, but the money to build those would be close to what one tons cost. One tons on 38s will have plenty of clearance, they make shave kits for 60s now.


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ok so lets stick to the 60s or 1 tons, whats the most common trucks they come on. years and models that are common so I can start asking around Boone people I know and go to local junkyard. thanks for the info, its getting late, got church in the am, peace dude, thank you
 
May be easier and more cost effective in the long run to do a 60/14 instead of the 60 rear. Bigger stock shafts in a 14 bolt and they are cheap to build.
 
Naterade99 said:
May be easier and more cost effective in the long run to do a 60/14 instead of the 60 rear. Bigger s tock shafts in a 14 bolt and they are cheap to build.
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Hey Nate, want to say my apologies for my ASSness on that other thread as I let my anger/can't take a joke get the best of me. The Lord has taught me better and I am sorry for the way I acted. Really am!!!
Since You are in Boone, what trucks down at Wards would have that combo as I'm putting money off to the side for this to start and will be starting to look this week and on...Thank you. I haven't asked Aaron yet what he's got, sure he's got stuff, but I know he's really busy too so kind of want to do my own research and parts first and then get help on the build.
 
as was posted a SWD F-350 will have the axle you seek for the front. By-pass the rear 60, not that strong, look for a 14 bolt, or a Dana 70. The 14 bolts are pretty cheap, and easier to find. The Dana 70 is already 35 spline so plenty strong. Several variations of trucks to find them in. The 14 bolt you want is a full floater style. Heavy axles, and I have seen very few of them break. Very strong, extra pinion bearing. You can shave the heck out of them to gain more Clarence
 
I'll toss this out there as I have built just what you are wanting more than once. Listen if you wish, but this is first hand experience with Dana 60 fronts and XJ's.
Get a 1988 to 1996 F350 Dana 60 front. It will be approx 69" wide. Get a Cab and Chassis 14 Bolt. It will be approx 63" wide. Narrow the longer side of the D60 front about 4". This will make the width correct with regards to the coil spring spacing as well. The front will be just a little wider than the rear, which will aid in handling and also in trail performance.
Don't build a Dana 44 for 38's. Yes, it can work and be fine. But you will be money and time ahead to do it correct the first time. With a doubler, I would want more than a 9" rear unless I spent enough money to make it as strong as a stock 14 Bolt. See the theme here?
 
yeah I'm away from the 44 since If I'm going to upgrade for the first time, might as well go all out for my tire size and doubler. starting Monday I'm going on the hunt for these trucks to see what I can find. thanks for all the input. i guess 60 front and 14bolt is what I will put on my wish list at the bone yard and with Aaron to see what he's got. also waiting on this house to fall through where rent is several hundred bucks cheaper and would have the space and money/time to park it and start the build. before i tear it down though, I gotta find a way to bring this heep to somewhere to run it at least once though and see how far I can get that way when I have to tow it home broke, it won't matter since I've got upgrades coming. I really want to run that 8.25 and D30 to the ground with this setup as it will be a first for me. I have concluded that if in double low at 6psi with under 3800rpm, I should be ok to keep it on the ground and move through stuff will keep posted of what I find and what trailer options for coming to Flats in April. I'm sure I'm not the only one dying to put this XJ to the test with my diff setup LOL
 
Honestly I don't think ward has any ton trucks but it can't hurt to look. You may want to look into a pass drop Chevy front they are a little cheaper also and you won't have to flip the 300. The possibilities are endless just take your time and find the right parts.
PS no worries we're all here to help
 
Take a friend to pull you home or for a ride out. Then beat the damnit out of that thing and break the shit out of it. You will see the need for tons and have a big time doing it. :D
 
Naterade99 said:
Take a friend to pull you home or for a ride out. Then beat the damnit out of that thing and break the shit out of it. You will see the need for tons and have a big time doing it. :D
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thats what I'm hoping to do except don't mind breaking the diffs but hope to not break the doubler, that was money well spent and want to keep it. i like the setup as far as that goes. the time to do the 300 would've been before we ordered the kit but it will work with the right crossmember made and stiffening the frame which I'm gonna get Aaron to do first before I do anything else to it.
 
Don't over look the sterling 10.25, if you can get it cheap with a matching front I'd go with it. Be cautious of Dana 50s and metric pattern stuff.


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Naterade99 said:
Honestly I don't think ward has any ton trucks but it can't hurt to look. You may want to look into a pass drop Chevy front they are a little cheaper also and you won't have to flip the 300. The possibilities are endless just take your time and find the right parts.
PS no worries we're all here to help
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1. thanks for the forgiveness. 2. What you got laying around that would work. I would think between you and Aaron, you guys might have what I need.maybe
 
88jeepster said:
BTW, my neighbor has a older S-10 for junk with Chevy 10 bolt, any better or worth it for free?
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If its free it will make a good boat anchor, paper weight, lawn decoration, etc. anything but being used as a rear axle.


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Redneck92 said:
Don't over look the sterling 10.25, if you can get it cheap with a matching front I'd go with it. Be cautious of Dana 50s and metric pattern stuff.


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This, sterling axles are strong also and often overlooked . From what I understand 93-98 sterling 10.25 and 10.50 are the ones you want. Of coarse there will not be near as much aftermarket support
 
Redneck92 said:
If its free it will make a good boat anchor, paper weight, lawn decoration, etc. anything but being used as a rear axle.


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I'll make a mailbox post out of it!!! thanks for saving me the work of taking it out.:D
 
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