Flat Skid Steel Thickness

Aggressive1

Aggressive1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2005
Location
Myrtle Beach
I realized I had a nice peice of diamond plate in the back yard that had some pretty good surface rust on it and I better use it before it gets worse. Its 3/16" thick I beleive and appears to be perfect for a tranny/tcase skid on my TJ. I have been wanting a flat skid for it but just no time yet. So if I cut this plate to fit and then cut two peices to bolt to the sides of the frame and welde them on so I can have 12 bolts in it, then take the front and back edge of the skid and cut about 1.5" back and belt it up to make approach lips (also help with strength) would this 3/16" plate strong enough to take a beating? or do I need to further rib it with thicker plate or small square tube etc?
 
I would put a couple of strategically placed ribs in it to stiffen it up. Vehicle weight will bed the 3/16 without some support.

Andy
 
THanks Andy, I thought about picking up greg's skid when he gets the RE kit from you, but if I have to cut the heck out of a plate to fit my rear control arm mounts when I four link it, then why buy one.

Would you build one with 1/4" or better and not rib it, or would you use the 3/16 if you had it and go ahead and rib it. I have some 2" wide 1/2" plate I could stand on its side on the top of the skid and weld in around where the Tcase will sit. I wheel mine hard but also don't want to drop $200 on steel or a bought skid if I can make one with what I have.
 
zubz said:
I would put a couple of strategically placed ribs in it to stiffen it up. Vehicle weight will bed the 3/16 without some support.

Andy
Click to expand...

I'll be using 1/8", get some 1/8 thick by 1" tall, long pieces and weld them, it will be strong.
 
I use 1/8" and have not had a problem...

it does have afew dents in it.. but that is my belly skid I have another crossmember above that, that holds the tranny up.
 
Aggressive1 said:
THanks Andy, I thought about picking up greg's skid when he gets the RE kit from you, but if I have to cut the heck out of a plate to fit my rear control arm mounts when I four link it, then why buy one.

Would you build one with 1/4" or better and not rib it, or would you use the 3/16 if you had it and go ahead and rib it. I have some 2" wide 1/2" plate I could stand on its side on the top of the skid and weld in around where the Tcase will sit. I wheel mine hard but also don't want to drop $200 on steel or a bought skid if I can make one with what I have.
Click to expand...

It shouldn't be that bad when you 4-link it. I have used that skid and long arms before(2000 TJ with long arms, ~4" of lift, and 36"SXs). Didn't cut it up much at all and it worked real well.

I would still rib it either way. The diff between 3/6" and 1/4" over that span with no ribbing would not be much. Rib it with some 1/8" by 1" flat bar and you will be golden.

Let me know if I can help you out with anything else.

Andy
 
With the price of steel, I'd use what you have, and brace it.. :)
 
Use it. Mine is made from 3/16" and ribbed with 1/8" angle iron. I also used some counter sunk allen heads.
 
What is a reasonable distance between ribs on center? (Gonna flat belly some day soon, and need to know too) I was figuring on 1/8 steel with 1x18 angle iron on top of the plate, but I'm curious as to how far to space it.

J
 
hobie said:
What is a reasonable distance between ribs on center? (Gonna flat belly some day soon, and need to know too) I was figuring on 1/8 steel with 1x18 angle iron on top of the plate, but I'm curious as to how far to space it.

J
Click to expand...


It really depends on what you are trying to do and the distance your skid is going to span. I would say no more than 8" or so between ribs, but I would use 6" or so as a guide if I were doing it. Don't go crazy, but that should get you where you need to be. Just look at what you are covering and where the vital spots are so you can reinforce those areas.

Andy
 
Use it. free stuff is the best.

If you buy some steel, go with 1/4" so you have less work with reinforcing it and still be strong, especially if you go with AR400 plate, but thats way expensive. We had some laying around the shop, so I just decided to use it for my buggy (haven't made the skid yet). Its awesome stuff. very hard to bend, cut drill, shear, punch, etc. However, because its hard, its easy to break the welds with repetitive high impacts.

Rob
 
As you might guess from my user name I didn't make my own skid.

I bought a 3/16" one from GoFerIt and bolted it on. It's held up fine. Not perfectly flat anymore but it's not going anywhere.
 
I am probably against the crowd here....but i dont care for the diamond plate skids....i think the diamonds just help grab the rocks instead of slidding over them. I know its what you have and we all want to save money (it does look good though)....Just thought i would through out the idea. As far as the thickness....as along as its braced it will do its job. it may bend and get tweeked....but it will protect the tranny.

Seth
 
Preciate that Seth, I actually thought about this and was contimplating putting the diamond up. Only issue there is welding the supports to a not flat surface.
 
rocktoy4me said:
I am probably against the crowd here....but i dont care for the diamond plate skids....i think the diamonds just help grab the rocks instead of slidding over them. I know its what you have and we all want to save money (it does look good though)....Just thought i would through out the idea. As far as the thickness....as along as its braced it will do its job. it may bend and get tweeked....but it will protect the tranny.

Seth
Click to expand...

You do not have to put the diamond side down
 
Ridgerunner said:
You do not have to put the diamond side down
Click to expand...


But then you run into the problem "Aggressive1" talked about. I would save the diamond plate for something visible that people are going to see. Seems like it would be a waste to turn it up. Just my opinion.

Seth
 
Back
Top