Flooring for shed

ManglerYJ said:
I could simply send you pictures of the finished product you are about to unbox that is sitting on my driveway. Word of warning also, for some reason the corners are HUGE targets for dog urine. Dog urine causes them to rust. One corner has rusted so badly that there is no "corner" left and I have patched it with some stainless corner brackets that I had laying around from my previous job. When the rest of the building rusts away, I will remove the stainless corners and get scrap value for them. They are the entire value of my building at this point.

By the way, I bought the building less than 4 years ago.
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Well I don't have a dog, nor do my neighbors.
I do however have a 10 year old son who loves to pee on stuff, so who knows.

And the full story - I got this in CL for $200 from a guy who bought it, started putting it together (got most of the side channels w/ the 4 million screws etc done), had it all laid out... and his neighbor, whose property line is too close to where he was gonna put it, came over and started asking questions about code and the local permits... dude wouldn't have cared, but he had JUST finished a carport close-in w/o getting the permit... and got paranoid the neighbor might tip off the county about the shed, and they'd see the carport... and decided to bail to keep them away. Lol. So I got the complete thing, w/ a lot of that stuff done already.

The point is, I'm not assuming this is a big super-fancy deal. It's a $200 shed. The fact that its only 215 lbs of mass, that comes in a box the same size as a set of shelves, tells me not to expect a lot of heft.
 
Roughly what would the cost be to have somebody show up and form a 10x10x4" slab?
And would it be done any differently if it were later used as a drive?

The place I want to put this is at the end of a driveway that goes beside my current garage. One of these days those we're planning to put a much bigger detached garage right about where the end of the pad for this shed would be anyway... so I'm wondering if it'd be worthwhile to just go ahead and have a cement pad poured now, which would later serve as part of the drive into that garage...
 
RatLabGuy said:
Roughly what would the cost be to have somebody show up and form a 10x10x4" slab?
And would it be done any differently if it were later used as a drive?

The place I want to put this is at the end of a driveway that goes beside my current garage. One of these days those we're planning to put a much bigger detached garage right about where the end of the pad for this shed would be anyway... so I'm wondering if it'd be worthwhile to just go ahead and have a cement pad poured now, which would later serve as part of the drive into that garage...
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Don't have an idea of cost, but my neighbor had a pad poured and while he was at it put a centered floor drain so that he could wash his vehicles inside (he planned on starting a car detailing shop out of it, but it never happened).

I would highly recommend having a pad poured up front. Even if the Arrow building ends up much smaller than it, you will find assembling the building on a nice flat level surface much more enjoyable (or much less not-enjoyable).
 
I would still build the shed on a typical wooden platform. Then when you decide to build the garage later, you can move the shed to another part of your yard and still use it. We just built a new house with an oversized three car garage. All of the yard equipment takes up so much room in the garage that I am currently investigating building or buying a shed to put it in. My point is you may wish you still had the shed when you get the garage built because 1/4-1/2 of your garage ends up full of yard equipment. Or maybe I've just got more yard equipment than most people.
 
Valid point.
I was kind of assuming I'd keep the shed, and just build a new pad for it, then move it off of the cement pad. Since this is the only flat spot in my yard, the chances of being able to move and re-use the foundation & shed together as one piece don't seem so likely. Although, the logistics of moving a floor-less thin metal shed sound.... interesting.
 
That small of a slab would probably cost you around 500$. +\- I don't know what the rates are in your area but last time I checked down here it was between 3-4 dollars a square foot but most have a min 500
 
drkelly said:
My point is you may wish you still had the shed when you get the garage built because 1/4-1/2 of your garage ends up full of yard equipment. Or maybe I've just got more yard equipment than most people.
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Shit like that also abides by the Ideal Gas Law. If you increase the volume of the container, the tools expand to fill the space available. It's important to keep tools segregated into defined areas.
 
shawn said:
Shit like that also abides by the Ideal Gas Law. If you increase the volume of the container, the tools expand to fill the space available. It's important to keep tools segregated into defined areas.
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yeah its amazing how they reproduce and grow up until you run out of room.
 
Update...
Mom & dad were in town, Dad was getting stir crazy so we worked on making a platform.
After a lot of debate, we decided to make it from 2x4s as studs, but run 12" on center, and rest is on 4x4 ground rated cross ties, one on either end, inset a little, and one in the middle, so the span was only a little over 4'. Got 1/2" plywood for the decking, and put 4 mil plastic between the the frame (joists etc) and decking.
Attached pic is how it looks today. unfortunately the ground isn't perfectly level so we had to do a lot of adjustment w/ some cinder blocks and random wood pieces to figure out the right amount to offset it from the ground (wedged under the 4x4a). plan to have a contact point at 3 points on each of the 3 beams, althoght the front beam is mostly just on the ground.

One question on that. Where can I get different size pieces of cement/stone blocks to use as "pillars" to level it out? E.g. I need one that is only ~3/4" high, another 1.5, one maybe 3.5, etc. Right now I only have the standard blocks from HG/Lowes etc, not enough options.
 

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Nope, just laid the 4x4s on the blocks, the built the 2x6 deck on top of that. I spent a good amount of time setting the cement block height, making sure it was level.
 
We spen ta lot of time this morning leveling it out, and digging out a little to make some of the blocks fit. In the end it is supported on the end corners, and the middle of each side, and in the center (9 posts total). The on in the center is just a tad high, but I figure if it changes any over time it's easy to access and build up the others.
Its pretty amazing how much having that center support stiffens up the 2x4s.
 
RatLabGuy said:
damn right

ok smart guy, what would you do
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Treated 2x6 on 16" center with ledger strip, double banded, 3/4 marine plywood glued, all fastened with ACQ screws sitting on 4x6 runners and 6 4"solid pavers. If you want it movable I can explain an axle and hitch set up that you can move with the lawn tractor.

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GotWood said:
Treated 2x6 on 16" center with ledger strip, double banded, 3/4 marine plywood glued, all fastened with ACQ screws sitting on 4x6 runners and 6 4"solid pavers. If you want it movable I can explain an axle and hitch set up that you can move with the lawn tractor.

View attachment 189122
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can't hide money I guess:flipoff2:
Just dropping to 2x4s and 1/2" treated plywood knocked >$120 off the build cost. I did double band the sides, and used the 4x4s to function as the ledger.
I did also put an extra 2x4 running horizonal along the side edges to make that really strong and give something to grab and pull it.
 
You guys that have built this same kit (Arrow 10x10), have you been bothered by the low height?
It's only 5' at the door.
I'm only 5'9", so I don't need a lot of headroom... but I'm seriously debating building a 16" tall "knee wall" out of wood and building it on that just to give it more height to work with. However that means having to rig up a whole new door b/c the ones in the kit are sliding on a track (I half expect them to get hard to slide within a few years anyway)
 
RatLabGuy said:
You guys that have built this same kit (Arrow 10x10), have you been bothered by the low height?
It's only 5' at the door.
I'm only 5'9", so I don't need a lot of headroom... but I'm seriously debating building a 16" tall "knee wall" out of wood and building it on that just to give it more height to work with. However that means having to rig up a whole new door b/c the ones in the kit are sliding on a track (I half expect them to get hard to slide within a few years anyway)
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Are you really going to be working out of it or just keeping stuff dry and away from sight? Pack the thing full of stuff and enjoy that it pays for itself after 2 months!
 
GotWood said:
Are you really going to be working out of it or just keeping stuff dry and away from sight? Pack the thing full of stuff and enjoy that it pays for itself after 2 months!
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Not working out of it. Just storing shit. Mower, yard tools, maybe some tires.
I was originally hoping I might store (hang) a Bronco or 4runner top in it, until I realized how low the roof was. That, and being flimsy metal there's no structure to hold it.

My wife is only 5', she says, "what's the problem?" lol.
Meh, I just realized its still 80" at the middle, normal door height. That's plenty I guess.

... I just like to overcomplicate things.
 
The 5' tall door would bother me. I like the 16" high knee wall idea. Those doors probably will get hard to open and shut after a while anyway. You could build some taller wood doors and ditch the metal ones.
 
Yes the height of the shed bothered me, I wish I had got a taller one or built it up somehow, I'm only 6' but it's annoying to be bent over in there.
 
Bogleparsons said:
Yes the height of the shed bothered me, I wish I had got a taller one or built it up somehow, I'm only 6' but it's annoying to be bent over in there.
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So, mathematically you should have plenty of headroom in the middle and be able to get within arms reach of the sides without ducking, is that not the case?

... I'll definitely have to put a roll of foam at the top of the door frame...
 
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