Ford 6.0... the saga continues.

1-tonmudder

1-tonmudder

Doin my part to stir the pot.
Joined
Apr 17, 2005
Location
Greeneville TN
As some of you might remember I bought a 06 F350 FX4 CC that only had 85K on it for $15K a year ago Jan.Outside of a stuck caliper I had zero problems the first year.Almost a year to the day I bought it the EGR cooler ruptured at 125K and my deltas were averaging 12-15 degrees difference.Pulled it down done the oil cooler and changed coolant,new cap on the degas jug,welded the egr cooler and new intake gaskets.

Went to Wilmington to get some parts and noticed ds rear brake pad scrubbing in Raleigh on a Sun night about 9 o'clock.Drove it 5 hours home trying not to use the brakes,wound up needing two sets of caliper slides,grease seals,pads and got by just turning the rotors.

Had it back together about three weeks and at the end of Feb lost an injector.My grandmother had just died the day before, I was leaving in three days for a trip to PA and I didn't have time to work on the truck.A friend of mine changed the bad injector and stand pipe on the ps and got it back on the road.Made two trips to PA and put about 4k on it after the injector was replaced.Had to replace one of the rear calipers in Lancaster PA in the Auto zone parking lot.

The truck had developed a long start when hot so I knew I was gonna have to address it before long.Lost another injector on the opposite bank on my way to UPS.Truck sat for about a month before I could get back to it.Tore it back down and replaced all four injectors on the ds bank,IPR screen,stand pipe and dummy plug.That took care of the long start.Truck is running good now but I noticed a slight miss in it and that's how the injectors have acted before they needed replaced.

So tomorrow I'm gonna tear back in to it and replace the last three injectors and dummy plug on the ps.Im hoping this will be the end of my problems for a long while.Outside of head studs I will have replaced everything that is replaced when bullet proofing a 6.0.Also the dana 80 has developed a whine to it that Im hoping is just pinion bearings,gonna address that this Wednesday.I'm in the truck about another $2500 now and outside of the first injector I've done all the work myself and used Ford parts.I've already spent more money on it than I did on the 7.3 I replaced it with.I'm passing it off as the problems a stock lo mile 6.0 has that hadn't been addressed yet.A higher mile truck might have already had this work done to it
 
Regarding the injector issues... wht type of oil are you running, I know it sounds dumb.

Also you are about to replace your FICM...wanna bet?
 
Ron said:
Regarding the injector issues... wht type of oil are you running, I know it sounds dumb.

Also you are about to replace your FICM...wanna bet?
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No I know they're particular about oil and striction is a problem w them.Im running Mobil 1 full synthetic for diesel trucks.FICM voltage stays around 48.5 volts so I'm hoping it's good for a while.
 
1-tonmudder said:
No I know they're particular about oil and striction is a problem w them.Im running Mobil 1 full synthetic for diesel trucks.FICM voltage stays around 48.5 volts so I'm hoping it's good for a while.
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Also is it tuned and how hot. On the hybrid race tune I had on my old 6.0 I killed 13 injectors in 2 years. You could feel the power nose over when the fuel pressure would drop off because the stock pump couldn't keep up. After I left a mild tow tune in it I only replaced 3 more injectors over a 7 year period.
 
1-tonmudder said:
No I know they're particular about oil and striction is a problem w them.Im running Mobil 1 full synthetic for diesel trucks.FICM voltage stays around 48.5 volts so I'm hoping it's good for a while.
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I'm a loner on this belief...but for me the Mobil 1 and T6 was a touch too thin/too slick.

I like the T5 rotella and it makes a noticeable difference in injector sound.

Since they are firing off pressure...too low of a viscosity can cause bleed by in theory...

While this goes against everything the internet says I used to actually run t6 every 4th oil change and T5 the other 3...for my ear the full synthetic seems to do a better job cleaning oil came out dirtier...but the injectors were finicky in the AM with it.
 
Tim C said:
Also is it tuned and how hot. On the hybrid race tune I had on my old 6.0 I killed 13 injectors in 2 years. You could feel the power nose over when the fuel pressure would drop off because the stock pump couldn't keep up. After I left a mild tow tune in it I only replaced 3 more injectors over a 7 year period.
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No tune at all and with the exception of the welded egr cooler its all stock.Air filter,converter,all of it is still there.I had intensions of putting a small tune in it but have used that money for repairs.
 
Tim C said:
Also is it tuned and how hot. On the hybrid race tune I had on my old 6.0 I killed 13 injectors in 2 years. You could feel the power nose over when the fuel pressure would drop off because the stock pump couldn't keep up. After I left a mild tow tune in it I only replaced 3 more injectors over a 7 year period.
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were you studded??
 
Ron said:
I'm a loner on this belief...but for me the Mobil 1 and T6 was a touch too thin/too slick.

I like the T5 rotella and it makes a noticeable difference in injector sound.

Since they are firing off pressure...too low of a viscosity can cause bleed by in theory...

While this goes against everything the internet says I used to actually run t6 every 4th oil change and T5 the other 3...for my ear the full synthetic seems to do a better job cleaning oil came out dirtier...but the injectors were finicky in the AM with it.
Click to expand...
I ran reg Rotella in the old truck and it always seem to be pretty good.Outside of vc harnesses I never had the covers off that engine.The times I had them off it was clean inside,esp for a 300K engine.
 
1-tonmudder said:
were you studded??
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Not then. I bought mine new in 03, tuned it by 10k miles. Bought a different tuner (sct) with custom tunes around 50k miles. 50k is when the egr cooler busted, then somehow trash got in the low pressure oil pump and made the regulator stick. I assume trash got in while the oil filter housing was off and the egr cooler was being replaced. I took it back and fixed that myself, it was blowing oil out the exhaust through the turbo. Those and one oil cooler were the only issues I had that I blamed on Ford. Between 50k and 220k, I replaced 14 injectors total, 2 clutches, an oil cooler a turbo and a 10.5 rear axle, I take full credit for those. It would spun the 37 or 35 inch tire (I switched) on the rim doing clutch drops in granny low or 1st. It spun the bearing races in the axle housing. The turbo lost all it's exhaust wheel fins somewhere above 35 psi boost, itd hit 42 on two different mechanical boost gauges. All on stock motor. That's when I permanently left it on the tow tune.

Finally around 220k I came out of an oreilly one day getting parts to fix my trail rig the day after getting back from the flats and it wouldn't crank. Pulled in the lot just fine. No low lube oil pressure, no icp. Pulled the oil pump found debris, pulled the pan saw a cam lobe missing. Pump sucked up a lifter needle bearing after wearing through the lifter and broke the pump gears.
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I started noticing metal fuzz on the drain plug magnet around 200k, it took 20k to wear it out. Never heard an unusual sound still had decent power.

I did a full rebuild myself. EDIT: during the build i installed head studs a bulletproof egr cooler, and an upgraded hpop. Between 220k and 300k i replaced 2 more injectors. Right around 300k miles I started seeing metal on the plug again so I traded the hell out of it. The front seats were showing wear, and the whole front end was worn out, Tre, bj, etc. It needed tires and pads and rotors all the way around, plus my Delta's were getting over 15again too. I'll be the first to admit mine was abused, I was young and dumb. The new 6.7 truck is bone stock other than the radio.
 

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I lost 1 injector on my 6.0, and I had another that was taking out the glow plug every few months. I'd get a little puff of white smoke at start up also. After a lot of research on snake oils, I got this stuff to try - AR9100 Oil Additive. It has greatly helped after just 3k miles, I just put another bottle in with this oil change I did this weekend too.

I run T6 for oil also.
 
DSM Turbos said:
I lost 1 injector on my 6.0, and I had another that was taking out the glow plug every few months.I'd get a little puff of white smoke at start up also.After a lot of research on snake oils, I got this stuff to try - AR9100 Oil Additive.It has greatly helped after just 3k miles,I just put another bottle in with this oil change I did this weekend too.

I run T6 for oil also.
Click to expand...
The first time I got a code for the injectors I dumped two quarts of ATF in the fuel and it helped it,the miss went away.Done that for about two tank fulls and finally fixed it.The old truck I dumped a quart in every other tank.
 
I used Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank and it seemed to help.

I’d go ahead and get an upgraded FICM and change it as it can add some HP and solve any potential issues with hard starts or killing injectors. Also, bad batteries and alternator skip these trucks too.
 
rockcity said:
I used Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank and it seemed to help.

I’d go ahead and get an upgraded FICM and change it as it can add some HP and solve any potential issues with hard starts or killing injectors. Also, bad batteries and alternator skip these trucks too.
Click to expand...

Very good points, check the FICM voltage for sure, very common problem.

1-tonmudder said:
The first time I got a code for the injectors I dumped two quarts of ATF in the fuel and it helped it,the miss went away.Done that for about two tank fulls and finally fixed it.The old truck I dumped a quart in every other tank.
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Never tried the ATF in the fuel. If mine gets worse again I may have to try it
 
I used to use tc-w3 two stroke oil as an additive in mine. It's designed to be burned and supposed to be ashless unlike atf or mmo. There used to be a thread floating around 15 or so years ago where a guy did some sort of lubricity test and decided it was the best additive. I think it was on a Duramax site but all the diesel forums referenced it back then.
 
rockcity said:
I used Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank and it seemed to help.

I’d go ahead and get an upgraded FICM and change it as it can add some HP and solve any potential issues with hard starts or killing injectors. Also, bad batteries and alternator skip these trucks too.
Click to expand...
I forgot to mention it has two new motorcraft batteries also.Got it back together last night about 9 and as of now any hard start issues appear to be gone.
 
DSM Turbos said:
Very good points, check the FICM voltage for sure, very common problem.



Never tried the ATF in the fuel. If mine gets worse again I may have to try it
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My FICM voltage stays around 48.5 and my dad suggested the atf since about all that's out now is ULSD.
 
Tim C said:
I used to use tc-w3 two stroke oil as an additive in mine. It's designed to be burned and supposed to be ashless unlike atf or mmo. There used to be a thread floating around 15 or so years ago where a guy did some sort of lubricity test and decided it was the best additive. I think it was on a Duramax site but all the diesel forums referenced it back then.
Click to expand...
In my 7.3's I ran diesel kleen and still run it in my 7.3 work truck.I could tell a difference in the way they ran when I was using it. I put some into my 6.0 a tank or two prior to the first injector goin out and I know its probably all in my head but Im kinda leary of using it again in my in that truck.My work gets atf,30w,or diesel kleen,whichever I find at the best price.
 
Back when the Army was running JP-8 (think the cheapest dirty hooker of diesel fuels) we would use a quart of ATF every other tank to help the HMMWV run better. Now they have switched to F-24 (high class hooker) and they did away with the ATF requirement. I would still sneak some in and it still made a big difference. In my Cummings I use Diesel Kleen as prescribed and have never had a problem.
 
DSM Turbos said:
I lost 1 injector on my 6.0, and I had another that was taking out the glow plug every few months. I'd get a little puff of white smoke at start up also. After a lot of research on snake oils, I got this stuff to try - AR9100 Oil Additive. It has greatly helped after just 3k miles, I just put another bottle in with this oil change I did this weekend too.

I run T6 for oil also.
Click to expand...
Not a lot to add as I'm a virgin 6.0 owner, but I've been using this stuff since I bought mine as well as the fuel additive (AR6200 Fuel Treatment)
 
skyhighZJ said:
Back when the Army was running JP-8 (think the cheapest dirty hooker of diesel fuels) we would use a quart of ATF every other tank to help the HMMWV run better. Now they have switched to F-24 (high class hooker) and they did away with the ATF requirement. I would still sneak some in and it still made a big difference. In my Cummings I use Diesel Kleen as prescribed and have never had a problem.
Click to expand...

This is what your Cummins wants and needs.
61J0MJoCx2L._AC_SL1200_.jpg

It is the only additive approved and suggested by Cummins. It flat out works at cleaning partially restricted injectors. I've witnessed them returning from 93% efficiency to 100% within minutes.
 
6.0 owner here as well. I just recently had my rear fuel tank delaminate and contaminate my frame rail fuel filter after starving the truck. Hoping it didn't cause any long-term damage. Have a titan tank in it now.
 
They were mostly self imposed :D


Anybody looking for another awesome fuel additive, try some OptiLube.
 
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