Front and Rear 60 Project

cj7jakfitch

cj7jakfitch

Active Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2005
Location
Mt. Holly, NC
I have a 84 CJ7 with widetrack axles. Just getting started on my build up of my front and rear 60's. I have a 4" BDS lift now, but I plan on going SOA when I put in the 60's. I am thinking about extend the rear about 6" or so and running XJ springs or whatever is the right lenght. I was wondering from some of yall running 60's what you might recommend. I don't think I'm going to run full width(will probably shorten the long side about 4.75") Should I keep the full-floating rear or cut of the spindles and go semi with 5 on 5.5 and disc?
Also should I upgrade to 35 spline axles? What high steer arms does anybody recommend? Any help would be nice, any does and don'ts or pros and cons.

Thanks Jay:beer:
 

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rockcity said:
Keep the full floater!!!
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+1 i've got a friend who can't keep from breaking semi-floating shafts in his 60

i recently put a 60/eaton under my 7 with YJ springs front and XJ springs rear, the XJ springs will add approx. 5"

a few helpful guys i found on Pirate:
Doug Brown (HighHonda) Highonda@optonline.net - "all your 60 needs"
Trevor (Trevor) www.wfoconcepts.com - high steer arns
Dan (Blue Torch) duh... www.bluetorchfab.com - anything and everything
PIG (PIG) www.polyperformance.com - another anything and everything


and of course the local guys, Andy from CRS and Rob from DEO

i'd def. go with 35 spline stuff,

do it right the first time, you'll regret it if you don't
 
Looks like I should keep the full floater!! Sounds good to me. Do you know if there is any way to convert to 5 on 5.5 with the full floater or will I have to stay 8 lug?
 
Why do you want that bolt pattern? The front and rear axles match, I would not go through the work to change them to a 5 lug pattern... Even if you currently have really nice wheels, the cost of the conversion would be more expensive than new wheels... If you need any help, you should call Seth over at Rockmonkey, he can give you good advice and help out if you get in over your head... Especially if you need to get lockers/gears installed...


Have Fun with it too while you are at it, given your questions, it does seem as though you are fairly new to this, so don't get too frustrated...

Hugh
 
Punkskalar said:
Why do you want that bolt pattern? The front and rear axles match, I would not go through the work to change them to a 5 lug pattern...

They are Dodge axles with external hubs. I am changing to Chevy internal style and was just thinking if it is possible to go 5 lug on full floating rear I would order 5 lug hubs for front. I have searched Pirate and other sites and found no info on changing a full-floating to 5 lug.:confused:

If I stay 8 lug can I run 15's with disc on rear without grinding calipers?
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if im not mistaken HIGHHONDA see the link in biggys post above sells a conversion kit that will go from the eight lug thats on it to whatever lug pattern you choose.
 
cj7jakfitch said:
Punkskalar said:
Why do you want that bolt pattern? The front and rear axles match, I would not go through the work to change them to a 5 lug pattern...

They are Dodge axles with external hubs. I am changing to Chevy internal style and was just thinking if it is possible to go 5 lug on full floating rear I would order 5 lug hubs for front. I have searched Pirate and other sites and found no info on changing a full-floating to 5 lug.:confused:

If I stay 8 lug can I run 15's with disc on rear without grinding calipers?
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Dependin on your wheel choice, you may or may not have to grind calipers front and rear. Thats no big deal, search Pirate and you'll find all kinds of info on it. Or, you can go to 16" wheel and not worry about it. 90% of the decent tires out there are available in a 16 or 16.5" tire anyway and the price difference is minimal. You would spend WAY mor on some type of conversion than just running 8 lug. And, if you break something, you can get a replacement easily.

Keep it simple and retain the 8 lug, it'll be much, much easier and cheaper
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I'm in complete agreement with rockcity, 8 lug rims and new tires is cheaper than having all that switched out stuff and it's easier to replace/find parts as you break the "normal" non switched out stuff.

As for the front axle, I 've been apart of 2 swaps like that. It was like 4" or something out of the long side and the springs sat on the factory perches. The axle is all centered without all those brackets/gussets welded onto the frame. The track will probably be close to the rr since frt axle WMS is usually wider than the front so your front tires aren't hanging way out of the fenders

Scott
 
hybrid rear D60 / ford 9"

Has anyone seen this done for a rear? - 9" chunk & housing / d60 full floater snouts and disks. Just wondering, I kinda like the obscure stuff- just because its different. I have a nice 9" setup that I want to make full floater, and I have seen the kits to do it with the nascar stuff, but its $$ and I have access to dead D60 rears to pull the snouts from. I would think that shafts and seals would be the only issue.
To make it interesting, I would like to keep it 5x5.5"


Previous thread comment. The only reason to stay 5 lug is to have less lugs to mess with. Stay 8 lug, get new rims. I converted my front chevy D60 to 5 lug / 15" rim and narrowed it 3" per side. I like the look, but I had lots of time in the shop to make it work well. The only downside was that I put in 1/2" ton D44 brake rotors and calipers to make it not act funny and fit well, no matter the rim. All I was really after was the beef of the shafts, the CJ is light.
 
Why do you want to go FF in the rear of a 9"? I can't see how an alloy FF 35 spline shaft is any stronger than an alloy SF 35 spline shaft as it relates to a trail rig and the forces on them.

I only mention this because if you're gonna swap in 60 stuff, I assume you'd go to 35 spline shafts, which aren't in the rear of a 60 stock...

c-clips and semi-floaters only matter IF you break an axle shaft... personally, I'd just get some SF35 spline shafts for the 9" and shove 'em in there..
 
Or, if its for a lighter, low horsepower vehicle, stay with the stock 30 spline rear until it breaks. Its a full floater so you don't have to worry about the axle coming out and running 3 wheel if it breaks. Replace with 35 spline if/when that happens

Unless you got the tools, I'd stay away from making a 9" a FF with D60 spindles. Theres no need, unless you like the drop out third member and have to have it. Like I said before, stick with a standard full floater D60 and it'll be much easier, faster, and much cheaper. Much less of a head ache also.
 
Rich said:
Why do you want to go FF in the rear of a 9"? I can't see how an alloy FF 35 spline shaft is any stronger than an alloy SF 35 spline shaft as it relates to a trail rig and the forces on them.
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you have to remember that a sf shaft not only turns the wheel but also carries the weight of the vehicle... there's a significant amount of "extra" force applied to a sf axle shaft due to this where as a ff has a spindle carrying the load... however, if you are running alloy shafts the differences are lessened compared to stiock stuff
 
I have about 400hp going off what parts I used and what machine work was done when I built the 400sb but I have not put it on a dyno yet.

From all the info so far I think I will keep the full floater, convert to disc, go with 35 spline axle, and spool the rear. I would like to run 15" 8 lug rims so I can use my 35" swampers I have now. After the 35's wear out I will run 37's so I am thinking 5.38 gears?
Thanks for all the info.
Jay

After I finish the rear I have to figure out the front!!!!
 
Keep in mind that if you have a LP front and you are going to narrow it that you can rotate the pinion up out of the way. If you narrow it the right way, that it. It is not easy, but the only way is to press that inner C back on the tube- dont rig it. I cut 3" off each side, made a spud, turned out the welds, pressed the C's off and then pressed them back on. Not too bad actually if you have the equipment.

Full float is nice for those (like me) that flat tow their rig. I have towed my rig like this for years and that is why I want full float- to have 4 wheels to get back home with. If your shaft breaks- so what? Remember there is no AAA in the woods.

I cant remember how many times I saw one of my rear wheels leave my model 20...:lol:
 
Jay, I'm gonna be runnnin 38's with my built 4banger-give that motor somethin to play with, stretch the heep and go 40's+:flipoff2: Now if I can get my Jungle built motor to sound like yours:rolleyes:
 
91yota said:
you have to remember that a sf shaft not only turns the wheel but also carries the weight of the vehicle... there's a significant amount of "extra" force applied to a sf axle shaft due to this where as a ff has a spindle carrying the load... however, if you are running alloy shafts the differences are lessened compared to stiock stuff
Click to expand...

Exactly, and that's why I specified alloy shafts. I am aware that OEM's have made FF and SF shafts from differing hardnesses and therefore OEM FF shafts could handle our usage better, but have not seen/heard this with aftermarket units of 4340 and the like...

As for the weight carrying affecting the strength, I just can't buy it on something the size of a Yota/Jeep. (We're not talking about 6000lbs on the axle here)

Of the SF axles that you've seen broken, where did they break? I've yet to see one break at the bearing, where the load is carried.

Haven't heard people say "35 spline 9" stuff is weak, shoulda gone full float" :p
 
On the rear 60 when you do a disc conversion you do have to grind some, but it is minimal. The casting ridge of the caliper is about all. Clears up easy. The front is a different storie. A lot of grinding there, but it can be done. Wheel bead is better on 15" wheels, so that's what I run also. I bought 5 new ones for $202 back about a year and a half ago. Bought the weld on bead locks and no problems since. I do agree that you shoud upgrade to 35 splines in the rear. I went the other route and used a 14 bolt. not too much difference after it is shaved some in ground clearance. And the 14 bolt is already a FF with 35 spline shafts. but, I do have spares if needed. Good luck with the swap
 
GONOVRIT said:
Jay, I'm gonna be runnnin 38's with my built 4banger-give that motor somethin to play with, stretch the heep and go 40's+:flipoff2: Now if I can get my Jungle built motor to sound like yours:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Sounds good, if I go SOA on the 60's and I already have a 1" body what size lift springs will I need to clear 40's? I have already cut front fenders and added tube fender and I plan on cutting the rear when I put in the 60's.

To get the 4banger to sound like mine Jungle will have to weld on 4more cylinders:flipoff2: LOL Are you keeping your 5.38 gears or going deeper?
 
upnover said:
And the 14 bolt is already a FF with 35 spline shafts.
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Sure about that? :flipoff2:
 
cj7jakfitch said:
To get the 4banger to sound like mine Jungle will have to weld on 4more cylinders:flipoff2: LOL Are you keeping your 5.38 gears or going deeper?
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Thats 5.29's and I'm adding a transfer case-something about a 223 crawl ratio that just sounds almost as good as a V8:Rockon: .
 
bigassedredjeep said:
sadly the 14-b is only 30 spline :(
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Yeah, but it's not like that's a bad thing...
 
Rich said:
Sure about that? :flipoff2:
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Ok I stand corrected. It is a 30 spline. But a big 30 spline. ( yes I wasn't sure so I went out, dug up my spares and counted.) Big enough that That's one spare I don't carry on the trail.
 
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