Front axle suggestions

Wolfpack OffRoad

Wolfpack OffRoad

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Joined
Mar 21, 2005
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Trinity
Hey, I am looking at replacing the front axle when I swap in the 8.8 in the rear. I would like to know what are good candidates for the swap and a short write-up (a few sentences) on what would be required. This will be in a '90 Cherokee. I am looking at running no larger than 35" tires and the new axle will def. be locked. I would like to keep the coil spring suspension and will be putting 4.10 gears in it. I do not want to go with a d60. So basically all I have to choose from would be some kinda shaft upgrade in the 30, which I don't want to do or find a d44. Which models and what years should I look for? Thanks, Josh
 
Since the 8.8 is a 5x4.5 pattern, and damn near the width of your current D30, I say stick with the 30 (I cannot believe I just said that). Do get the upgraded shafts and all that jazz, possibly truss it too.
 
Find a set of 97 or newer xj shafts with the 5-297x u-joints in them, those will probably hold up fine. If you want to go dana 44 you can run a waggy dana 44 and find some older dodge dana 44 outers that had 5 x4.5" bolt pattern
 
For the waggy 44, does it have disc brakes? It is leaf sprung correct?

For the d30, would the shaft upgrade be stronger than '97 or newer shafts?

Are not the 297x u joints phased out and replaced with the 760x?
 
I run a D30, trussed, warn inner and outer shafts with 760x u-joints, Warn hubs. I have not broken it since upgrading, in fact, the 8.8 has broken since.
 
I think the shaft upgrade/hub conversion will be my best bet with least headaches. I looked around and found that there are 2 different hub conversion kits. One for my u joints, the 260x, and another for the newer model, 297x. As long as i upgrade my inner and outer shafts I can run the 297x correct?
 
I second on sticking with your HP30. I'm in the process of building mine which already consists of 4.56's, TJ shafts w/ 760x joints, true-track, and will soon be getting WJ knuckles for bigger brakes and over the knuckle steering.

Polishing a turd perhaps but this thing will never see tires bigger than 35's. If I wanted a modded out crawler, I would have bought a TJ and some D60's. Wait, a TJ? Did I actually just say that? :flipoff2:
 
If you go yard hopping looking for shafts also look for 89-95 XJ axles with ABS. ABS axles used 297's. They'll have a tone ring.
 
Kevin Lawler said:
If you go yard hopping looking for shafts also look for 89-95 XJ axles with ABS. ABS axles used 297's. They'll have a tone ring.
Click to expand...

Not to hijack the thread but....

I have a set of axles of that vintage that I need to get rid of. What the heck does a tone ring look like so I can be sure? I switched my TJ to a junkyard HP 30 and the XJ axles APPEARED to have 297 u joints.

Instead of investing big $$$ in a hub conversion....

You could buy my complete inner+outer+u-joint+unit bearing sets. Ubercheap! Run those and carry your stuff as spares.
 
Kevin Lawler said:
If you go yard hopping looking for shafts also look for 89-95 XJ axles with ABS. ABS axles used 297's. They'll have a tone ring.
Click to expand...

I don't know what a tone ring looks like but I will look for the abs near the master cylinder if it is still there.

I think a yard nearby still has a 99 or 2000 4wd I can gank the shafts out of.

Thanks!

I will probably do the shaft upgrade and hold off locking the front till I have enough to do a hub conversion because i don't want a full time locked front end. :)
 
Wolfpack OffRoad said:
I don't know what a tone ring looks like but I will look for the abs near the master cylinder if it is still there.

I think a yard nearby still has a 99 or 2000 4wd I can gank the shafts out of.

Thanks!

I will probably do the shaft upgrade and hold off locking the front till I have enough to do a hub conversion because i don't want a full time locked front end. :)
Click to expand...

Lockrite is 99% invisible in the front when in 2wd. If you have the windows rolled down and listen carefully you can hear it click in corners on the street. Every now and then you can get it to make a clanging noise in a parking lot situation. I got a lockrite before I got the hub conversion. It's no big deal at all.
 
And, flanges are stronger (and stick out less) than lockout hubs, especially with that tiny 4.5" bolt pattern.
 
My Jeep is off-road only. I am not worried about how she will act on pavement. What do you do when you are in a situation where you don't want the front end pushing, i.e. in an off camber clay turn when you need the front end to turn sharper?
 
BoltOnJohn said:
What the heck does a tone ring look like so I can be sure?
Click to expand...

This one is from a '90.

ai20.ebayimg.com_01_i_04_18_40_9d_1_b.JPG


I could probably use some spare shafts. What you want for them?
 
A tone ring is the toothed wheel at the end of the axle that tells the abs computer the wheel has stopped spinning (Lockup) and the abs computer pulses that brake. They are at the outer end of the axle by the wheel.
 
Wolfpack OffRoad said:
My Jeep is off-road only. I am not worried about how she will act on pavement. What do you do when you are in a situation where you don't want the front end pushing, i.e. in an off camber clay turn when you need the front end to turn sharper?
Click to expand...

2lo.
 
Kevin Lawler said:
2lo.
Click to expand...

How hard is that to install? i have seen it but paid no attention because I have a cable on my axle disco. and never really needed it. If i go with non disco axles I guess I will have to get it.
 
If they are removable, they will be pressed on, but i wouldn't think you would need to remove them. It's cheaper for the maunufacturer to make the housing the same for non abs as for with abs. Not sure though. My 98 toy had the tone rings just no abs system.
 
Wolfpack OffRoad said:
My Jeep is off-road only. I am not worried about how she will act on pavement. What do you do when you are in a situation where you don't want the front end pushing, i.e. in an off camber clay turn when you need the front end to turn sharper?
Click to expand...

Pray?

Seriously though... You'll like having the additional traction more than you'll regret the occasional hassle. With a front locker the front end wants to climb instead of the back end pushing it up onto stuff. That's another debate bordering on religion but I'd go for the front locker before the rear.

If it isn't turning fast enough you can usually gas it a little. Easier to do than explain. If the front ends pushing and you're not on the gas, try bumping it a little. If you're on the gas and it's pushing let off. In other words if what you're doing isn't working, try something different. :)

I had no regrets about the front locker. I've never seen anyone get out and unluck their hubs to make a tighter turn, so hubs are a moot point. The only reason people use 2 low is because you can do it w/o leaving your seat. Just a convenience.
 
that is lousy argument, you arent going to get out and unlock the hubs to make a turn. you will back up and make the turn. also, if you can't make the turns through the trails around us, you need to learn how to drive.

definelty lock the front, and in my opinion, run 35's on the stock 30 (with 297/760 joints) and just have replacement parts. people say it sucks, but it is a decent little axle that can withstand 35's if you aren't crazy. mine withstood 35's and 36's for 2 years b/c i didn't do stupid shit.
 
BoltOnJohn said:
I've never seen anyone get out and unluck their hubs to make a tighter turn, so hubs are a moot point. The only reason people use 2 low is because you can do it w/o leaving your seat. Just a convenience.
Click to expand...

I think his debate was lockouts vs. slugs on the front... mine does (did) turn in a tighter radius with hubs locked and the case in 2wd vs being in 4wd. I like having 2 low.

I only use it for going between obstacles, not on the actual obstacle.. It's just the next best thing to unlocking the hubs.

My front locker is setup tighter than spec though, so it doesn't unlock as easily.. YMMV.
 
Well the 2 low kit is not too expensive. I will probably put the shafts w/ better u joints, do the 2 low, regear to 4.10, and throw a locker in. Sounds like a good setup. I will carry my old shafts for spares and if I find i have a problem I can go from there. I don't think I will have a problem though, I am not as robust on the go pedal as others I have seen. :D Thanks guys, Josh
 
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