FWD car trans removal

RatLabGuy

RatLabGuy

You look like a monkey and smell like one too
Joined
May 18, 2005
Location
Churchville, MD
Not a 4x4 question but it's a general problem applicable to most cars.

Pulling the 5spd manual trans in my '02 Mazda Protege5.
Got everything unbolted, except the pass-side mount, and bellhousing bolts.
Need ideas on how to support the engine as I remove trans, since it will be left w/ only the 1 mount on the P-side fender (at top of timing cover).
Working alone, in my garage - no lift, no hoist.
Apparently the engine will have to be able to droop downward to slip it out under the fender, so I can't just drop a jackstand under it.

I was thinking of dropping a 6' long 4x4" wood post across the engine bay (padded where it hits the fenders), and using that to strap the engine up to, using ratchet straps so I have some control.
Would that be string enough?
 
Floor Jack and block of wood under oilpan would give better control. The 4x4 would be strong enough but I'd support it on inner fender- strut tower structure verses the painted fender.
 
RatLabGuy said:
I was thinking of dropping a 6' long 4x4" wood post across the engine bay (padded where it hits the fenders), and using that to strap the engine up to, using ratchet straps so I have some control.
Would that be string enough?
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That would work just fine and when used with a floor jack underneath will do what you need it to.
 
Come-along from a floor joist attached to the other end of the head and a jack underneath to help position. I used a ratchet strap last time and it felt a little sketch. Come-along would have been better.
 
Tim C said:
Floor Jack and block of wood under oilpan would give better control. The 4x4 would be strong enough but I'd support it on inner fender- strut tower structure verses the painted fender.
Click to expand...

I'll need the floor jack for lowering the transmission onto.
Good point on the strtut tower area for support though.
Also fighured I'd put towels under it to soften/spread out the pressure.
 
catfishblues said:
Come-along from a floor joist attached to the other end of the head and a jack underneath to help position. I used a ratchet strap last time and it felt a little sketch. Come-along would have been better.
Click to expand...

Hm, interesting idea. I think the hood would be in the way, but I'm going to look into this just b/c it has the redneck-looking rig sort of appeal to it. Plus it justifies putting a hook in my ceiling, which will be a great conversation piece later :D
 
I was thinking more along the lines of seeing if you could borrow an extra jack from someone or even use the cars scissor jack under the engine with some cribbing. If it'll lift a quarter of the car to change a tire surely it'll hold up half a 500 lb engine.
 
RatLabGuy said:
Hm, interesting idea. I think the hood would be in the way, but I'm going to look into this just b/c it has the redneck-looking rig sort of appeal to it. Plus it justifies putting a hook in my ceiling, which will be a great conversation piece later :D
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Sorry. I left out one detail. I removed the hood. It was well worth it for the unfettered access to the engine bay! Pain in the ass car. Toyota Matrix with the 2zz and a 6 speed.
 
Im interested in hearing/seeing your whole process. I also have a protege5 that will need a clutch at some point. There isn't a ton of romm around the engine in those things, atleast not on the timing side.
 
Caver Dave said:
Seems it'd be a lot better to either:
- holesaw across multiple joists & insert DOM (assuming floor above)
- or drop the same tube across the tops of multiple rafters (assuming roof/sheathing above)

... to hang said hook on?
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Yeah, I'm actually not in a basement garage like Mark is (and you IIRC?), it's a standard attached at end of a Rancher. Easy access to the rafters above so yes I'd probably run a steel beam or 4x4 across them, with a strap around that and hanging through.

Really, teh 4x4 across the engine is easier but the more I think of it I'm thinking this hanger could be fun.

And Mark we had an '07 Matrix, loved the car but never had to work on it. One of the rare "M-series" limiteds.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Im interested in hearing/seeing your whole process. I also have a protege5 that will need a clutch at some point. There isn't a ton of romm around the engine in those things, atleast not on the timing side.
Click to expand...

hm, ok maybe this will turn into a real tech thread. Although I should probably do it on the P5 forum.
BTW there's a pretty good writeup here
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...e-Install-Tranny-and-LSD-or-disassemble-gears

If you don't plan to pull the engine, there's not much to do on the timing side, just pulling out the CV shaft from the diff. The D-side has a c-clip but the P-side does not, b/c it is held in place by 3 retaining bolts on the extension arm that runs below the starter. I unbolted everything from the spindle but the lower balljoint, and tilted it forward; that was just enough room to slide the splines out of the diff w/o having to remove the whole CV.
 
RatLabGuy said:
hm, ok maybe this will turn into a real tech thread. Although I should probably do it on the P5 forum.
BTW there's a pretty good writeup here
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...e-Install-Tranny-and-LSD-or-disassemble-gears

If you don't plan to pull the engine, there's not much to do on the timing side, just pulling out the CV shaft from the diff. The D-side has a c-clip but the P-side does not, b/c it is held in place by 3 retaining bolts on the extension arm that runs below the starter. I unbolted everything from the spindle but the lower balljoint, and tilted it forward; that was just enough room to slide the splines out of the diff w/o having to remove the whole CV.
Click to expand...

I figured there was something out there. I found a good writeup when I did the timing belt and water pump. As long as I don't haveto mess with the alt again, Im good.
 
Well its been >93 degrees here, making it like at least 400+ in the attic. So fawk going up there.
I went with the original plan, ran a 4x across, padded the sides w/ 2x4s to stabilize it and some carpet pad scraps.

Holds pretty well
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If the engine weighs 200lbs tops, and it supported on one side, thats only say 100lbs in the middle distributed across each fender side, making the per sq inch pressure on the blocks pretty small. Not too worried about it.
 
Rebuilding trans.
It started popping out of 5th on occasion... then became more common.. the suddenly 3rd, then 4th. By the end it wouldn't stay in 4th at all. Then it got stuck in reverse (could not unengage it). All signs indicate shift forks and worn syncros.
Annoying but at 185k I guess stuff happens.

The work is all the same for the clutch, b/c you have to pull the trans all the way out to get to it. I've had no behavioral evidence of clutch issues but I'll go ahead and replace it all anyway just b/c it such a pain to do this again.
 
RatLabGuy said:
Rebuilding trans.
It started popping out of 5th on occasion... then became more common.. the suddenly 3rd, then 4th. By the end it wouldn't stay in 4th at all. Then it got stuck in reverse (could not unengage it). All signs indicate shift forks and worn syncros.
Annoying but at 185k I guess stuff happens.

The work is all the same for the clutch, b/c you have to pull the trans all the way out to get to it. I've had no behavioral evidence of clutch issues but I'll go ahead and replace it all anyway just b/c it such a pain to do this again.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. My clutch had been on its last leg for a while. Does fine normally but will slip/chatter when trying to start on incline. Occasionally hard to shift also, which lends to wearing shift fork/synchros. Might as well plan for trans refresh & possible BJs/TREs while it's all apart too. Mines at 158k now but wide drove it for about 50k
 
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