GIJeepN: Tons, 40's, and Stretch

[DriverJC]

Sorry about that. I used 6oz of MEK in 128oz of paint. 2oz of that was to clean the inside of the tint can so I could get all of the tinting mix out. The other 4oz were for mixing per the instructions.

Having mixed A LOT of paint over the years, I don't think the 6oz of MEK thinned the mixture enough to make it noticeable. When I spray GIJeepN (both inside and out) I'm not going to use any thinner other than the 2oz for the tint container. lol.

YMMV
Joel

 

[DriverJC]

I got to use the "New to me" air compressor on Sunday to work on the wheels and tires. The compressor is a 7hp 60 gallon twin cylinder unit with a max PSI of 135psi that I got for $165 off of craigslist. Ohhh man is this a lot of air. lol...

I started by breaking down the outer bead of the two wheels that leaked, this compressor will remove 18 of the 36 bolts using my 20year old Air ratchet before the compressor kicked on. Awesome.

After getting the wheels torn down I replaced 1/4" NPT plug I inserted into the original valve stem hole when I modified the wheels with a 90* metal valve stem (. Then used some Butyl Tape ( https://www.amazon.com/Colorimetric...TF8&qid=1502799626&sr=8-8&keywords=butyl+tape )(this stuff is used in composite manufacturing to seal the vacuum bags) around the weld bead on the rim then Bead Sealer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NBTGCF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Then clamped the ring tight and aired up the tire.

The air compressor continued to impress. It delivered enough air though my 3/8" rubber air hose to seat the 40x13.50-17 tire at 40psi before turning on again.

So end result was both tires that leaked are now leak free and aired up.

The other two should be complete this week then I can focus on removing the unit bearing and axle seals to install the High Steer kit.

While I was searching Craigslist I came across a 60 gallon air tank with no compressor that didn't leak for $50.00. Hopefully, I can get off work early enough this week to pick it up and add it to my growing shop.

 

[DriverJC]

Picked up an addition to my new compressor yesterday.

Stover Co 60 Gallon Compressor Tank for $40.00

This should give me more than enough air to seat the beads on the tires as well as enough volume to run the 60amp ESAB PCM-875 Plasma cutter that I acquired.

Just need to figure out how to plum it into the system. lol

Joel

 

[jeepinmatt]

Nice find.

Not sure how much you've used the Esab, but I also have a PCM875 and find the cut quality to be drastically different between new consumables vs worn stuff. Other units ive used don't seem to be as particular about it.

 

[DriverJC]

Not sure how much you've used the Esab, but I also have a PCM875 and find the cut quality to be drastically different between new consumables vs worn stuff. Other units ive used don't seem to be as particular about it.

I haven't used the PCM875 yet, but was told that I needed to get new consumables for it. Those came in yesterday, so I'm hoping to play with it either this weekend or next. lol

Thanks.
Joel

 

[DriverJC]

I haven't been able to get much done in the last few months due to the overtime at work.

However, today I got home in time to put in a few hours of Barn Time and got the Artec Superduty Full Hydro High Steer Brackets TIG welded.

Joel

 

[DriverJC]

Well, I got some more accomplished on the front axle this weekend.

Artec Superduty Full Hydro High Steer Arms Tacked in.

And got the Artec Superduty Full Hydro Ram Mount taced in and Mocked up.

I'm hoping to have my Brother-In-Law over tomorrow to get this stuff fully welded up.

Joel.

 

[DriverJC]

Today I was supposed to get the Artec Ram Mount fully welded. However, it is VERY WINDY today and as I am building this in my back yard I won't be able to, so I decided to mock up the ram and get it situated on the mount where it should be.

As you can see in the photo below there are cut outs where the diameter of the ram should to be situated.

However, apperently, and it isn't in any documentation from Artec, there is a certain order to installing the center supports, and me being the dumbass that I am, installed the bigger ones to the outside and the smaller one where the ram is supposed to go. After taking a grinder to it it now fits fine.

However, this ran me into another problem and it is one I'm not sure of the answer.

The picture below shows the Ram in the center of the mount. It also shows three of the Ram Clamps on the ram and situated where they need to be.

The problem is the 4th clamp. As you can see in the photo below when it is installed it will rest on the plate covering the hole for the diff cover.

My question is, will three clamps be enough to hold a 2.75" diameter 8" stroke ram or should I notch the cover and remove at least two bolts from it to install the fourth clamp?

Thanks for any advice.
Joel

 

[ORV design and fab]

I'd make the 4th fit and mount it! That's 25% of your mounting points!.

 

[Chris_Keziah]

Why not move the ram toward the passenger side of the truss so it'll fit the 4th mount. Or modify the cover to make it fit.

 

[DriverJC]

I couldn't move the ram to the passenger side enough to clear the cover due to a structural support for the truss. So I moved it enough to be able to notch the cover so I didn't loose any bolts in the skid plate and have approximately 3/4" between the mount and the cover to be able to weld all the way around the mount.

Thanks for the advise.

Now does anyone know what you are supposed to torque the Clevis bolts on the Ram to? The ones you attach the clevis to the ram.

Joel.

 

[DriverJC]

So Tuesday, I got the High Steer arms completely welded up and then today I finished up welding the lower edge of the ram mount to the axle tube. All I have left is to weld the lower edge of the mount to the cast center section. Hope to have it done tomorrow or Friday.

Joel

 

[DriverJC]

Yesterday afternoon I got the steering ram bolted in and set up the bars to help me align it so i could measure for the tie rods. Unfortunately, it got dark before I could get the measurements. lol

Today, instead of finishing the measurements my brother wanted to know how much the axle weighs. It's 515lbs with out brakes, rotors, link mounts, or tie rods. This is a heavy beast.

After getting the weight, I re-set up the alignment bars so I could get the tie rod measurements and weld them up. I did get lucky, I ram out of Argon just as the torch was post cooling the final weld. Guess I need to get more. lol

Here it is ready for me to disassemble AGAIN. This time it will be for media blasting and painting. I'm thinking of painting it either the same Pyroclastic Montsaliner that I painted my wheels or going with Herculiner.

Joel.

 

[DriverJC]

So, last week I received the two dies I purchased to chase the threads on the 7/8"-14 rod ends one right hand and one left hand.
So I go to use them this weekend and found something rather odd.
This is the left hand die and it works great.

This, however, is the right hand die.

Here is the right hand die on top of the left hand die to show the size difference.

The company I got the right hand die from is refunding me the money and told me to keep the die. lol.
Joel

 

[jeepinmatt]

So, last week I received the two dies I purchased to chase the threads on the 7/8"-14 rod ends one right hand and one left hand.
So I go to use them this weekend and found something rather odd.
This is the left hand die and it works great.

This, however, is the right hand die.

Here is the right hand die on top of the left hand die to show the size difference.

The company I got the right hand die from is refunding me the money and told me to keep the die. lol.
Joel

7/8NPT pipe thread maybe? It doesn't look tapered, but its hard to tell.

 

[DriverJC]

7/8NPT pipe thread maybe? It doesn't look tapered, but its hard to tell.

I just looking this up and found that there is no 7/8"-14 NPT (National Pipe Tapered) or NPS (National Pipe Straight). I did find a 7/8"-14 BSP (British Standard Pipe). When I get home I'll measure the Die and see what's what.

Thanks for pointing me in this direction.
joel

 

[DriverJC]

Got some time to work on the rear axle today since the front is about as close to done as I can get it for now.

Got the mounts burned off. I attempted to use a cutting disc, and a portable bandsaw. However, I ended up having to use a 60amp plasma. The ESAB 60 amp plasma burned through it very quickly.

Just need to clean up the remnants and prime it before the Artec brackets and truss get here.

Joel

 

[NickMaul]

Cool work so far. I will be paying close attention to any issues you might come upon. I too will be building some SD axles soon, but not as hardcore!

 

[DriverJC]

Work has been a bear so I haven't gotten any time to update the thread in a while.

Got the frame brackets for the GIJeepN today. Can't wait to get them mounted up.

Upper Mounts:

Lower Mounts:

Going for triangulated lowers on both ends but I will need to create a subframe to get everything to clear.

Got the 10.5 Modular Truss. Modular Truss Ends, and Upper and Lower Control Arm brackets for the Sterling 10.5, and the Adjustable Upper Control Arm Mounts for the Front D60 this weekend. As with all the other brackets I got from Artec, they are beefy and easy to put together.

I think I need more bench space. lol.

Well I got a few hours after work on Wednesday to play with the Jeep. Then I got up a bit early today so I headed out to get the truss mocked up.

The Artec 10.5 Modular Truss i seriously beefy and it fits perfectly. The Modular Truss ends were a little long and needed to be trimmed so after a few trips from the back yard to the barn I got it all tacked together. This will give me AT MOST 50" of separation on the axle for the lower links and there is enough space in case I need to get to the bolts. I'm debating on removing the parking brakes since I'm going to be using a Hydraulic Parking Brake.

Also, spent some time in the Barn weldering up an Artec Adjustable Upper Control Arm Mount. I had to drill out the Holes to 3/4" (and found that my bit is bent, not much but enough).

Then it's a week or so in the Barn to get the mounts welded up.

I got the Truss welded up this afternoon. I also received the 3/4" Drill Bit and Clamps for the Drill Press so I can drill all the holes I need. Unfortunately, my luck with Drill Bits is very poor. I dropped the drill bit on my tile floor and chipped it (the drill bit not the floor). lol. I'll use it as it is and see what happens.

I'll start drilling the 38 holes tomorrow hopefully it won't take too long.

lol. Making progress, Slowly, but I'm making progress.

Joel.

 

[jeepinmatt]

I'm debating on removing the parking brakes since I'm going to be using a Hydraulic Parking Brake.

I'd keep the mechanical parking brake. The hydraulic ones leak down. Been there, done that.

 

[DriverJC]

Thursday morning I got up early and got the truss welded on and primed. Looks great and will give me AT MOST 50" of separation at the axle and still have the link mounts inside the truss area, I wanted close to 40" so this will be good. I also think my welds are definitely getting better. lol

on Friday I had to buy a fourth 3/4" drill bit. #1 bent right out of the box while drilling the drivers side steering knuckle, #2 bent but not as badly drilling the Driver's side steering knuckle, and #3 ended up chipped when I dropped it on our tile floor. I knew I should have gone to Home Depot and bought one from there instead of getting one from Amazon. Oh well, #4 worked like a champ, I got all 48 holes drilled in a few hours. Just need to figure out a quick way to clean up the inside surface of the mount. I'm thinking of a drimmel and a fine grit tapered rotary sander.

Joel

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

If I’ve gotta enlarge a hole, I use a harbor freight step bit. Just let it eat with some oil on it and make your 3/4” holes. They aren’t rated for more than sheet metal, but they work. You’ll probably do all your link holes before the bit wears out... and they are only $5 or so and don’t grab and snatch a 1/2 chuck drill out of your hands and try to dislocate/separate your shoulder in the process.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[DriverJC]

If I’ve gotta enlarge a hole, I use a harbor freight step bit. Just let it eat with some oil on it and make your 3/4” holes. They aren’t rated for more than sheet metal, but they work. You’ll probably do all your link holes before the bit wears out... and they are only $5 or so and don’t grab and snatch a 1/2 chuck drill out of your hands and try to dislocate/separate your shoulder in the process.

In hindsight, I probably should have used a step bit, However, I mine stops at 7/8" and I wanted a tight fit for my bolts. I did end up getting the holes enlarged with the 4th drill bit and a 1950's craftsman floor standing drill press.

I also picked up a tapered sanding drum this morning that has a 1" major diameter and 1/2" minor diameter that I'm going to use to clean up the holes.

 

[DriverJC]

Well it's been a while since my last update. so here goes.

2017-12-28:

I started welding the frame mounts together. While I was setting them up I used a piece of steel tubing and a washer to space the inner portion of the mount for the rod end. Unfortunately, after getting two of them welded up, I found that I had tightened the spacer down too much and it ended up less than the 2.625" I needed. This is what happens when you don't have the rod ends to make your measurements with.
So I have two more mounts on order as well as some 3/4"-16 all-thread in order to space the mounts properly for the 1.25" rod ends that are also on order. hopefully, I should be able to get these welded up in the next week or so.

2017-12-29:

The Original Spacer I used was cut to 2.625" with the use of a single washer.
When I installed the spacer I tightened them down too much and neglected to check the distance prior to welding.
As you can see from the pictures They are a bit too close.

Drivers Side 2.618:

Passengers Side 2.603:

I attempted to spread them and got the bottom of the drivers side to close to 2.660 but when I released the pressure it went back to the 2.618. I thought about heating the mount to 500 degrees or so with my torch, but since I already have some new mounts coming in I decided against it.

For the rear mounts that I already have but haven't welded, I purchased some 3/4-16 all-thread and am making spreader bolts so I can set the mount space correctly. I'm assuming that an assembled rod end with a 2.625" mounting width will need a mount space of 2.650-2.660 to slide into the space with minimal fuss. I'm going to wait until I get the rod ends to test the fit prior to welding.

Bottom Hole 2.6545:

Top Hole 2.6590:

I really think Artec has a good thing with these DIY mounts, however, I would have liked to have the Rod End mount plate keyed. That way it could be assembled correctly with no spreader bolts or spacers.

2017-12-31:

Checking fitment after tacking:

Checking Fitment after final welding:

The rod end fits with almost no side to side play before tightening the bolts.
Awesome, I've got two of them welded... only two more upper mounts and two lower mounts.

2018-01-06:

So This week I ordered the metal for the control arms and the subframe. Got the stuff from Industrial Metals in Riverside, Ca. However, when I got it home I found a problem. I ordered 4ea 2" x 2" x .25" square tube to create the subframe.

Two of these things are not like the others.

Guess I'm going to have to start taking a Caliper with me to check the orders.

2" x 2" x .188" Square Tube:

2" x 2" x .250" Square Tube.

On a good note I was able to get the first lower control arm bracket mocked up for welding.

It is a good thing I waited to get the square tube before welding. I had to grind a little off the uprights.

That about covers the progress for the last month or so. Unfortunately, it is raining here in "Sunny Southern California" so I'm not going to be able to get much of anything done on this project.

Still got a ton of stuff to do but I'm making progress. lol

Joel

 

[DriverJC]

Got the D60 all put together ( well minus the brakes ) should be mounting up the wheels and tires tomorrow so I can FINALLY get it off the jack stands so I can get the jeep onto the stands to disassemble it. As long as Mr. Murphy doesn't rear his ugly head too much I hope to start cutting off the stock mounts next weekend. lol...