Grand Wagoneer on RAM 2500 chassis frame swap

crisd

Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2021
Location
Apex, NC
In researching the best five speed automatic transmission I could mate up to my AMC 360 in my ‘88 Grand Wagoneer I came to the conclusion, after much research, that the total cost was more than I wanted to spend just for a trans swap. So plan B is to swap my Wagoneer body onto a chassis that already has everything I want. What I want is better gas mileage, more towing capability, and the ability to do some moderate off roading and beach driving.

I decided on using a Gen2 Dodge Ram 2500 with the 5.9 V8. I bought a 2000 2500, 4X4, regular cab with a 5 speed manual transmission for $3,000.

I thought some may find this interesting. As the days, weeks, months, of this swap continues I will post my work. Enjoy.

The plan: buy lots of zip lock baggies, painters tape, a couple of sharpie pens, and several 5 gallon buckets. Measure Wagoneer and Ram wheel base. Order aluminum three row 1970 Dodge Challenger radiator… aluminum radiators take months to get! Order Gen3 front brake calipers and rotors, order GM 1 ton rear wheel cylinder.

On both vehicles sitting in my drive way…

Day 1: Buy engine power wash spray cans and soak the engine and everything under the vehicles. Power wash both vehicles at car wash, clean under both vehicles and in the engine bay. Spend an entire day soaking EVERY nut and bolt with break free and let sit for at least 24 hours. Spend an entire day labeling everything… EVERYTHING. Take pictures of everything before removal.
Day 2: Remove battery. Remove hood, fenders, bumpers, tow hitch, grill, headlights, cut off Ram left wheel well to install on G.W. (wheel-well is needed to place battery on the driver’s side, keep battery bracket).
Day 3 and 4: Remove ECU (Ram), recover refrigerant and remove ac lines, remove radiator and hoses, remove fan and clutch assembly, remove heater hoses, drain fuel lines and remove fuel tank, open brake lines and catch fluid in jar, remove rear driveshafts, disconnect steering shaft near the fire wall, remove windshield wipers and wiper motor, remove power brake booster (after removing interior processes)
Day 5 and 6: Inside of both, remove both front seats, remove dash (Ram forums say that it will disintegrate when removing so don’t waste your time being gentle), disconnect throttle cable, power brake rod, and clutch rod (Ram), remove parking brake line, disconnect steering column shifter linkage under the body (GW), the shifter (Ram). While under the body remove all the bolts on the body mounts, remove ALL the exhaust from the Ram (new headers and dual exhaust will be installed in the future), and remove 4x4 linkage.
Day 7: Remove pedal assembly, all HVAC stuff. Spend rest of time making sure everything is disconnected to lift body off frames and gut interior of both vehicles 100%. Pull all wiring through the fire wall. Unbolt G.W. rear frame mount/bumper assembly for later use.
Day 8: Get 8 friends to come over and lift both bodies of frame using 2ea, 4×4 lumber / 16’ long slid under the bodies, one in front, one in back. Set both bodies on wood saw horses made from 4×4 lumber.
Day 9: With the chassis now fully exposed, do all maintenance (such as replacing distributor cap that can’t be reached for crap because it’s in the back of the engine and PVC, replace timing chain, water pump, intake plenum gasket, drill out all broken bolts, (because the engine has 200,000 miles on it).
Day 10: Prop up Ram frame with 8 jack stands or wood stands. Each in front of and behind each wheel on the frame. Remove rear rear leaf spring bolts and remove front rear leaf spring bolts. Remove all the rivets from the rear leaf spring front mount. Remove frame rivets. Remove cross brace. Cut Ram frame 25.5 inches. Roll rear-end forward until you have the correct wheel base, use clamps to hold frame together, check wheel base… twice three times, clamp solid. Drill new holes and bolt frame together with front leaf spring mount. Re-attach rear leaf spring bolts. Check wheel base again, if good, measure for new driveshaft length, bring drive shaft to be cut and balanced, let them install new joints.
Day 11: Modify new fuel tank to fit (keep in mind drive shaft space) and install new fuel tank. Move frame cross bracing to necessary location to hold up fuel tank, bolt in.
Day 12: Record on a piece of paper how high each G.W. body mount sits above the driveway. When welding new mounts on the Ram frame you need to know how high each should be in relation to each other.
Day 13: Do stuff I forgot to plan for. Install headers.
Day 14: Install drive shaft. Drain and replace transmission and transfer-case fluid. It’s a pain normally so it should be easy with no body.
Day 15: Install full 3” exhaust system. Run fuel and brake lines. Cut off all body mount perches.
Day 16: Bring friends back over and set G.W. body onto the Ram frame, use wood blocks as temporary body mounts to level body on frame. Look at glorious vision and drink beer.
Day 17: Weld Ram in body mounts to mate up with G.W. body locations. Front mounts will have to be fabricated from steel plate.
Day 18: Make front body mount/bumper brackets.
Day 19: Weld in drivers side wheel-well. Cut, move, weld parking brake bracket. Bleed brakes. Do misc. stuff.
Day 20: Install pedal assembly, steering wheel column, hook up brakes, clutch, accelerator cable. Install windshield wiper motor, linkage, and wiring.
Day 21: Install G.W. (metal only) dash. Install Ram HVAC.
Day 22: Start pulling all the Ram wiring through the firewall and begin hooking up everything.
Day 23: Start connecting all ground wires. Make new ground wires and connect them from frame to body. Make a few more and install them too just for good measure.
Day 24: Run Ram wires for the headlights and tail lights. Cut/splice wires as necessary. Install Ram door chime buttons in door sill.
Day 25: Connect HVAC lines. Pull vacuum and recharge. Weld in G.W. rear body cross brace to Ram frame. Install rear bumper. Install tow hitch.
Day 26: Install Gen3 front brake calipers and rotors and GM 1 ton wheel cylinder. Bleed brakes.
Day 27: Move charcoal canister from middle of frame to under the hood. Re-install front end sheet metal. Install head lights.
Day 28: Finish installing dash wiring and instrument cluster, do misc. stuff.
Day 29: Re-install all the interior.
Day 30: Drive and enjoy.
 
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I am really looking forward to this one!! Welcome to NC4x4, friend.
download (2).jpeg

Carry on!! :smokin:
 
Gen2 frames are three piece units, my plan is to just knock out the rivets between the two center sections, cut off 25 1/2 inches, push the two ends together, drill new holes using the other end as the template and put in new frame bolts like they use at repair shops.
 
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What is the best way to post pictures? Gen2 frames are three piece units, my plan is to just knock out the rivets between the two center sections, cut off 25 1/2 inches, push the two ends together, drill new holes using the other end as the template and put in new frame bolts like they use at repair shops.
Look bottom left of the reply box there's an "attach files" button. Hit it and it'll pull your pictures straight from your phone.
 
If better fuel mileage is a goal, you definitely messed up picking a 360 :laughing: Otherwise, look forward to the build!

Duane
 
I’m not super excited about the frame being bolted back together with a leaf spring mount. It should be welded and reinforced
 
Body79, the OEM method was done with huge rivets. Are you thinking that bolts will not be sufficient? Perhaps I should follow up with welding it after bolting it?
 
Yea the mount can be bolted on
but the mount isn’t make to be a frame splice.

frames are made as one continuous piece. Now i haven’t seen them all but all the ones I’ve seen are.

Welded and fish plates are what I’ve seen done.
 
Is the goal for a continuous 30 day build, or is the outline more a rough estimate of times for each task?

If you have 3.55 ratio axles, you might look into finding a set of 4.10 axles while you are at it. My NV4500 / 5.9l 2nd gen would have been a bit better all around with a little more gear ratio. You can count on a solid 10-13mpg no matter what with that drivetrain. I loved my 5.9l V8, fastest starting, and smoothest running engine I have had in a vehicle in a LONG time.

Looking forward to pics!
 
If better fuel mileage is a goal, you definitely messed up picking a 360 :laughing: Otherwise, look forward to the build!

Duane
While there are other engines that could have given me better gas mileage, the total cost to get that engine, a heavy duty frame, Dana 60 or stronger axles, big brakes, and a five speed transmission far out strips my total cost and I would have needed at least quadruple better gas mileage just to make up the cost over several years. So far I've spent $3,000 and have recouped some cost from selling the Dodge parts I don't need, recycling all the steel I don't need, and expect I will recover some money from the Wagoneer stuff I don't need from future sales. Let's say theoretically I get a total of $1,000 back from the stuff I sell. That means I just got my entire conversion done for about 2K not counting the stuff I purchased that I really didn't "need". I don't need to put on gen 3 brakes, nor need to replace the timing chain and water pump but I wanted to. I also didn't need long tube headers and 3 inch exhaust. So you can add back about $1,000 from the stuff I didn't need.
 
Yea the mount can be bolted on
but the mount isn’t make to be a frame splice.

frames are made as one continuous piece. Now i haven’t seen them all but all the ones I’ve seen are.

Welded and fish plates are what I’ve seen done.
The Gen2 frame is not one continuous piece, it's actually three sections that are riveted together. I'm just knocking out the rivets of one section and shortening it and then bolting it back together because I don't have anything to put those kind of rivets back in.
 
Is the goal for a continuous 30 day build, or is the outline more a rough estimate of times for each task?

If you have 3.55 ratio axles, you might look into finding a set of 4.10 axles while you are at it. My NV4500 / 5.9l 2nd gen would have been a bit better all around with a little more gear ratio. You can count on a solid 10-13mpg no matter what with that drivetrain. I loved my 5.9l V8, fastest starting, and smoothest running engine I have had in a vehicle in a LONG time.

Looking forward to pics!
I cannot do it continuously. Each day is a set of goals to be accomplished. I've already been looking for a set of gears be installed along with an Eaton eLocker. Update: I bought 4.56 gears and the eLocker finally just came in after a 9 month back order. 3May2021
 
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I cannot do it continuously. Each day is a set of goals to be accomplished. I've already been looking for a set of gears be installed along with an Eaton eLocker. I'm not sure I want to tackle that task on my own, any recommendations for a good shop are much welcomed.
FYI. There are no good gear shops in Fayetteville.
 
When I stripped out the Dodge I was surprised on how rusted out a southern truck could be...
I don't think you have a true southern truck there, my 96 2nd gen was a navy man's rig and spent time in WA, LA, and VA (all coastal) and still looked 99% better than that when I pulled the carpet up.
East Coast Gear Supply is a vendor here, and a good go-to shop in Raleigh if you feel like a trip with your axles.
 
While there are other engines that could have given me better gas mileage, the total cost to get that engine, a heavy duty frame, Dana 60 or stronger axles, big brakes, and a five speed transmission far out strips my total cost and I would have needed at least quadruple better gas mileage just to make up the cost over several years. So far I've spent $3,000 and have recouped some cost from selling the Dodge parts I don't need, recycling all the steel I don't need, and expect I will recover some money from the Wagoneer stuff I don't need from future sales. Let's say theoretically I get a total of $1,000 back from the stuff I sell. That means I just got my entire conversion done for about 2K not counting the stuff I purchased that I really didn't "need". I don't need to put on gen 3 brakes, nor need to replace the timing chain and water pump but I wanted to. I also didn't need long tube headers and 3 inch exhaust. So you can add back about $1,000 from the stuff I didn't need.

Can't argue any of that, just found it comical that you mentioned better fuel mileage and a Dodge 5.9 in the same post lol. I was driving my dad's 01 today and the lie o meter said it was averaging 12mpg.

Thanks for the vendor tip, I forgot about them. A buddy of mine bought a six-speed turbo Volvo T5 wagon from one of the employees there some years back. I wonder if I can just drive it up there, or do they need the axles pulled?

They'll do it either way. I think they had my truck two days when I had it geared. They're not in Raleigh anymore though, they're in Louisburg.

Duane
 
Plus one on ECG, I took my Super Duty there for a rear axle repair.

This is an interesting swap, looking forward to it.
 
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Can someone tell me if I'm understanding this correctly, I have Dana 60 axles that are 4.10 and down, but if I purchase the Eaton e Locker I can get that 4.56 and up version and put 4.56 gears in it? Yes?
 
Yep. Nailed it. Truthfully, you could just buy everything from them. They'll generally look out for forum members.
 
Poke around on this guy's site, he has some interesting ideas on how to ring some performance out of the magnum engines, while you are replacing the intake plenum gasket, you might want to install an oil baffle and one of the readily available thicker plenum plates to have a permanent fix on your hands.
 
Here is the size difference between the Ram tank and the GW tank. I'm going to use a 1997 Ford Explorer tank because it has the tank inlet and over flow on the end and the fuel sender unit is in the correct location in relation to the GW tank.
 

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