H1 wheel education

BIGWOODY

BIGWOODY

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Thomasville
I need a set of H1's , going to need to get them re-centered so the BS isn't quite so goofy. Looks like 3.5 BS is what I'd end up with . My other option is to run them stock without re-centering, but I'm not sure if I'd ave steering clearance issues or the hub sticking out past the wheel. I don't want to get into switching to dually hubs etc.. My questions are any local (NC) vendors that sell pressed centers so the shipping won't kill me? Anyone know if these might work in stock form with a 93 ford ball joint HP60 without steering or hub issues? Is the any advantage/disadvantage between 8,12,24 bolt wheels? Inserts... cut down rubber or PVC? Thanks
 
I am pretty sure Mud at least used to have the centers.
 
Nothing really to add other than get thick well designed centers and maybe an inner bead stiffener. I bent 3 centers and all the inner lips on my buggy.
 
I have a set of five 12 bolts with pressed centers and PVC rings that are more or less unfinished. I think one or two of them were welded and a couple of the others are tacked up. I can get some pictures, but they're "available" if you're interested. I think the BS was around 3-3.5", but will have to check.
 
The increased number of bolts increases the load carrying capacity of the wheel. We run 8 bolts on a 7k lbs suburban with no issues, and I have 12 bolts on my 5k lbs yj.

I doubt the bolt quality will affect anything pertinent for your use.

My pressed centers are 3/16 thick and came from Stockton wheel through trail worthy.

We have mag run flats on the 8 bolts and rubber on my 12 bolts. I like having a oem style run flat as it acts like a bumpstop for the tire when aired down to keep from pinching the sidewall.

We have only dented one of the mag run flats after hitting a broken off 2" pipe in the ground at 35 mph or so. Destroyed the tire as well.

I have outer rock rings only, and they see frequent abuse and are 3/16 also. Only ever dented one inner bead, and not enough to leak air.

Not sure about usage on a hp60.

I built a jig to recenter ours, and all are within .012" runout, while I measured all factory h1s at .035-.065 runout.

Focus you heat when welding onto the center as the wheel barrel is thinner than the center material.

Our 8 bolts are at 4" bs with flat centers iirc, and my 12 bolts are 2.5 or 3.5" with pressed centers, can't remember.

Assembly time is about the same for both. The mag run flats bolt together, but the rubber you have to squeeze around the equator with a large 2" ratchet strap, and lube with dish soap to easily get inside the tire. Not too bad once to get the hang of it.
 
What ^ said. I prefer the rubber runflats. The 1 piece rubber runflats are more difficult than the 2 piece, but they can be installed with a ratchet strap, and removed with an engine hoist. I think the 24 bolts look awesome, so thats what I would run, but 12 and 8 are fine too. Many moons ago when I was looking for a set, I learned that the 8 bolts had mag runflats and the 12 bolts had rubber runflats. This is probably not a 100% rule, but was 100% of the sets I was looking at. I ran pressed centers from Great Lakes Offroad, no issues, welded in nice, looked good, and with a set of 38" unbalanced SX's they ran smooth up to 65mph. Oh, did I mention they are HEAVY with the runflats?
 
I've got a set of 12 bolts and have PVC inserts coming from TWF. I plan to run 2" spacers to clear the steering on my 44 until I have the time and money to recenter them.

The more bolts, the less the wheel will deflect when tightening them down. An 8 bolt with a stock rubber/mag run flat and a large, thick bead tire will cause the inner wheel to warp when tightening. Some see no ill effects from this while others I have spoken to have said it has caused the Oring to not seal completely and therefore leak.
 
The 8 bolts are designed completely different than the 12/24s. The 8 bolts are 2 tapers that fit together and pinch the oring, while the 12/24 bolts have 2 flat surfaces with an oring groove.

12 bolt:
ai161.photobucket.com_albums_t213_406yj_WaterJet_DSCN1853.jpg


8 bolt:
ai161.photobucket.com_albums_t213_406yj_H1_20wheels_DSCN0866.jpg


The 8 bolts are likely the strongest in stock form, as the center is built into the backhalf vs the outer on the 12/24. They are also the lightest.

If you want the lightest combo, use 8bolts with stock or pressed centers and PVC inserts.

I am not aware of anyone who makes pressed centers local. Mud still cuts centers, but they are flat; but can be welded at any BS.
 
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I'm running great lakes off-road pressed centers with magnesium runflats with the Mohawk cut off on two different rigs. Get pressed centers for sure, I taco'd three flat centers on my f150. The pressed centers have held up much better. The only thing I'm gonna do different is switch to pvc beadlocks when I buy my next set of tires.
 
Get some new O rings from your favorite local supplier (not the hummer dealership). Everyone argues if they are -457 or -458. I got both and the -457 worked better and didn't pinch.

For a heavy or street rig, pressed centers are the way to go. For a lighter rig or off road only, flat centers are OK and offer more BS options. Get a decent outer lip stiffener and to protect the bolts as tearing up the threads is a PITA and the studs strip out.
 
Any body got a link on the pvc inserts, I feel lazy. And from what I understand those want work on factory dodge axles with disk. So I am going to ass U mate. They want work on a Dana 60 with similar brakes. Can anybody clarify? I am currious as well.
 
I run 12 bolts, PVC inserts from Jester Fab, with Pressed centers and full rock rings from Mud. Rock rings are a must! PVC inserts are nice and make things simple.

I run them on a 94 dodge 60 front converted to Ford hubs with the dodge knuckles and brakes. Works just fine and protects the lockouts nicely
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Any body got a link on the pvc inserts, I feel lazy. And from what I understand those want work on factory dodge axles with disk. So I am going to ass U mate. They want work on a Dana 60 with similar brakes. Can anybody clarify? I am currious as well.
Click to expand...

Hummer Wheel PVC Insert Stazworks also sells them. I believe that Trailready may as well.

The stock hummer wheel will fit on a stock SRW d60 without recentering, but the hub is susceptible to damage. Most high steer arms have clearance issues with the stock hummer wheel though.

On the dodges, they will fit on a 1st & 2nd gen front axle stock, but wont easily fit a 3rd because the diameter of the rotors. Older d60s didn't use 14" rotors, and most had 16" wheels stock.
 
If you need some to use for test fitting let me know. They will have 37's mounted. I may sell a set here soon, but I just bought a hmmwv so I need to see the condition of tires on it first.

I also have a set of hummer offset aluminum beadlocks, but I don't suspect they are double beadlocks.
 
Just keep in mind if you run mag run flats you should probably take some of the width down a 1/4 inch. I tried for two days on my first 12 bolt to get it to seal before taking it apart and taking the width down.. work like a champ after that. The beads were super thick on the brand new 40 in iroks I put on.
 
cgm147 said:
Just keep in mind if you run mag run flats you should probably take some of the width down a 1/4 inch. I tried for two days on my first 12 bolt to get it to seal before taking it apart and taking the width down.. work like a champ after that. The beads were super thick on the brand new 40 in iroks I put on.
Click to expand...

And all that grinding dust makes a nice fire starter. :D
 
You definitely want pressed centers and some rock rings.

I bought a set of 12 bolts from a forum member several years back that I was planning on using on my Ranger cab truck but never got around to it. JT cut the factory centers out for me with his plasma cutter. I bought some pressed centers and some rock rings and was planning on buying some of these inserts from Trail Worthy Fab:

awww.trailworthyfab.com_images_D_CCPVC.jpg


Hummer Wheel PVC Insert
 
I've seen someone take two back sides and bolt them together for a wide application. Probably run a super wide rear instead of two tires in the rear.
 
Definitly wanting to run duals. My old white work truck is getting new dually axles out of superduty so they will have to have new centers for the 8x170 pattern.
 
if you used 12/24 bolts with flat centers attached in stock location, you could achieve ~7" BS. You would be a little wider in the front, and would need to run a spacer between the wheels in the rear.

Here is an example that is similar. This wheel is 2 backhalves like mentioned above. The center bolts between the 2 halves, using the studs/bolts from the wheel. If you did not want to worry with extra orings, you could also put the center on the outside/inside of the 2 halves; or you could weld it in infront/behind the wheel flange. If welding it in, make sure there is clearance to remove the studs/bolts.

2010-07-14 22.14.49.jpg


I haven't seen any, but it might be possible to put a heavily dished dually style wheel center in a H1 wheel. I would want it attached to the inner shell, so it would be a tight fit.
 
Mounting 4 tires on H1s is enough....who the hell would want to have to do 6 of them?!
 
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