H1 wheels first build!

marty79

marty79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2013
Location
Newton, NC
Build my first set of H1 wheels. Came out nice looking. They're stupid heavy lol (more traction) lol yes those are hockey pucks I used to get my even spacing. They get used a lot lol
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Clean off that paint off the metal before welding. Use a respirator as that paint is super toxic. And, need clean metal for a good weld. You sure as heck don’t want to breath those fumes from that toxic ass paint on those H1 wheels.
 
rockcity said:
Clean off that paint off the metal before welding. Use a respirator as that paint is super toxic. And, need clean metal for a good weld. You sure as heck don’t want to breath those fumes from that toxic ass paint on those H1 wheels.
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It was, just cant tell in pictures
 
@77GreenMachine and I will both agree that you need some rock rings.
I broke way too many of those valve stems. I got really good at keeping a spare ready to thread in when I busted them on the trail. Philip did what I shoulda done and added rubber valve stems and welded rock rings on.
 
Van-go said:
@77GreenMachine and I will both agree that you need some rock rings.
I broke way too many of those valve stems. I got really good at keeping a spare ready to thread in when I busted them on the trail. Philip did what I shoulda done and added rubber valve stems and welded rock rings on.
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Those are in the build plans for sure
 
Absolutely. I bought Jeep from David’s and he had some janky tabs welded to the studs on each side of the valve stem. I still manages to break a valve stem each time I took the Jeep out. The 3rd time I said no more. Rock rings from TWF were ordered. I drilled out the square hole to 5/8” with a step bit and used a common valve stem.

At minimum I recommend you go ahead and drill them out for regular valve stems, that way if you cut one you can still carry a Colby valve and use that for a quick repair.

The current H1 valve stems are so rigid, all you have to do is bump one, that’s morally all it takes. You gotta split the wheel to repair it.
 
77GreenMachine said:
drilled out the square hole to 5/8” with a step bit and used a common valve stem.
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I wondered about doing this, good info. So use a stepping bit to keep hole centered to 5/8?
 
marty79 said:
I wondered about doing this, good info. So use a stepping bit to keep hole centered to 5/8?
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Yep. I taped the bit off at 5/8 and drilling was super easy. The shape of the bit keeps it centered in a square hole.
 
rockcity said:
You don’t necessarily need the PVC inserts from TWF. You may can find some pipe to cut to fit or if you come across the magnesium run flats, you can cut those down for a more budget minded option.
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I've been looking but no luck
 
Yes you could go to any pipe store and purchase PVC pipe and have them cut them to length for you for a perfectly straight edge. They would probably even hook you up with some scrap pieces from other cuts.
 
77GreenMachine said:
Yes you could go to any pipe store and purchase PVC pipe and have them cut them to length for you for a perfectly straight edge. They would probably even hook you up with some scrap pieces from other cuts.
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Well I'll have to call around I reckon, the TWF are kinda steep with shipping and all
 
marty79 said:
Well I'll have to call around I reckon, the TWF are kinda steep with shipping and all
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They gotta make livin I reckon. I will say their customer service is excellent. I spoke with them several times. I literally just threw away a box with Extra studs, O rings, and maybe a few H1 Valve stems.
 
FYI, in the future, I would avoid flat centers. The pressed ones are way stronger, it's surprisingly easy to bend the centers when they're flat like that.
 
2pc rubber runflats are where its at.
 
77GreenMachine said:
FYI, in the future, I would avoid flat centers. The pressed ones are way stronger, it's surprisingly easy to bend the centers when they're flat like that.
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True, I did my research and these 3/8 centers are plenty strong from both sources that sell them, including TWF
 
Whats the deal with the weld pattern?
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77GreenMachine said:
Yes you could go to any pipe store and purchase PVC pipe and have them cut them to length for you for a perfectly straight edge. They would probably even hook you up with some scrap pieces from other cuts.
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You're going to be around $1600 for a length of 18" sch 40, no one is just going to have it laying around sadly. And considering how hard it is to get a square cut and bevel on something that size...twf inserts aren't such a terrible deal.
 
braxton357 said:
You're going to be around $1600 for a length of 18" sch 40, no one is just going to have it laying around sadly. And considering how hard it is to get a square cut and bevel on something that size...twf inserts aren't such a terrible deal.
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Yep this was my findings as well
 
might could call Delks or another military surplus and see if they have rubber or mag inserts. @Tacoma747 might know, but I suspect the parts arent seen at auctions much anymore.
 
braxton357 said:
You're going to be around $1600 for a length of 18" sch 40, no one is just going to have it laying around sadly. And considering how hard it is to get a square cut and bevel on something that size...twf inserts aren't such a terrible deal.
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You need a better pipe supplier...

I can get 20' sticks for well less than half that.

But...your point about cutting it flush and square remains.
 
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