Harlan Bound July 2nd...

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Currently sitting at Asheville Pizza and Beer letting the MJ cool down. Stopped at the scenic overlook just north of town and found this.



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We picked up an oil pan gasket in Harlan. Decided to do a rear main when we get home and a valve cover gasket. Was a great week with some fun times and some scary.
 
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1-tonmudder said:
Don't they all look like that???
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I needed that chuckle.... This is a little more than what I would expect. I assume when I had it out I should have done all that. But at that time I was at a point where I was just horse trading for what ever it needed. Now that he is working full time he can put his money in it. Supper proud and supper happy we took a 2wd MJ to 4wd. Then drove it to Harlan wheeled it broke things. Fixed it with help and drove it home. Pictures of it when I brought it home.... 11/29/06
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So prepping to do the rear main and oil pan and we have come across an issue. Son noticed when the motor warms up it taps. He thinks its not getting oil on top once it warms and thins. We plan on doing a oil pump test before we drop the pan. Question is has anyone seen the 4.0 loose pressure with a bad rear main seal?
 
8C790579-D5F5-4394-BC67-FF045299CC35.jpeg Oil pressure is good. Stayed around 42 and went up when it was reved up.
 
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So any tips or suggestions on a RMS and oil pan gasket? I saw @Jody Treadway say he rtv’s the gasket to the block? What about the pan side? What about that rms what do you use to poke it out? I’m afraid with my luck we will scar something. Anything we need to do while we are in here??
 
Remove pan and gasket. Remove rear bearing cap, using a #2 Phillips, push the old RMS around the crank enough to grab with a pair of pliers.
Lube new seal, slide around crank. Note the seal will have an open slit (ha, ha) that needs to correspond with the direction of the old one.
Put new other half in bearing cap and then a thin bead of rtv across the bearing cap where the bolt holes are.
Install cap and torque to spec.
Apply rtv to block side of gasket and use every other bolt to adhere to block. Wait a couple hours and install the pan. No rtv on block.
 
I pushed out a 22 year old rear main seal with a brass punch (I too was scared of scarring the block). It took about 15 minutes of beating and cussing but it will eventually come out. The old seal felt hard as rock and it beat up the brass punch pretty good.


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I get the seal moving with a punch (I don't care, brass, steel, a finish nail)... Once you get it moving, hold it against the crank and turn the crank, it'll spin out with it. Install similarly, but use the plastic guide to prevent cutting the new seal against the block going in. Two dots of sealer where indicated on the other bearing half and you're good to go. Use the "pop up" gasket holders installing, spots of sealer at corners and you'll be fine. On the seal, the inside (cupped) part faces the front of the motor. Biggest pain is getting the rear part of the gasket to sit in the groove. You can use gasket adhesive to glue it up of the pop ups and it'll sit where it should. I've got a ton of them if you need some and they aren't included though most federal/national kits include them.
 
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Jody Treadway said:
Remove pan and gasket. Remove rear bearing cap, using a #2 Phillips, push the old RMS around the crank enough to grab with a pair of pliers.
Lube new seal, slide around crank. Note the seal will have an open slit (ha, ha) that needs to correspond with the direction of the old one.
Put new other half in bearing cap and then a thin bead of rtv across the bearing cap where the bolt holes are.
Install cap and torque to spec.
Apply rtv to block side of gasket and use every other bolt to adhere to block. Wait a couple hours and install the pan. No rtv on block.
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I'm dense and want to clarify. Put the RTV on the gasket and not the block? Or RTV on block side only and you meant to say No rtv on pan? Also FSM says 80 ft-lbs

(10) Tighten all main bearing bolts to 108 Nzm (80
ft. lbs.) torque.
 
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Ok so attempt one was a failure.... got the upper part of the RMS in about 3/4 way and it would not budge. Tried rotating the crank and nothing. Tried pushing it and boom... bent it. So off to get another one. Yes we put oil on it.....
 
Press it against the crank and feed it as you turn it... (Press hard enough you indent your finger) There's a little plastic feed guide that comes with it.. you'll miss it if you're not looking for it. The plastic piece goes where the back side of the seal goes against the block.. once you have only like 1/8" hanging out, use a punch and hammer to gently flush it up.
 
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