I need lockers

FWIW I had a 2010 ram 3500 dually 2WD and it would get stuck on flat wet grass. Changed to a good set of toyo AT/II and never had another issue (given I wasn’t doing 4wd things) but it pulled trailers in and around a lot of rough/muddy terrain. Tires can make a huge difference on the ability of a vehicle.
 
I'd personally straight axle the front before I invested a dime in the front diff. Or as you have plenty of experience with it.....drag cable. Longer time consuming but entirely the cheapest route.

Shawn nailed it, aside from the diff ring gear and related the external is much weaker when bound up and looking for traction. Early IFS hybrid builds for racing using those components rarely lasted a full race. Yeah racing but spinning around on loose dirt is nothing to finding good firm grip while moving some random load and weight of the truck.
 
I've been toying with the idea of a front locker for some time; I had someone about to sell me a 9.25 front diff for my K2500 that was geared 4.10 and had an Eaton E-Locker; but he disappeared off the face of the earth.
AAM has something similar, it's a 9.25 ring gear size but for a Chrysler 9.25; dunno why it wouldn't work in a GM front diff but I'm also clueless when it comes to the fine art of gears and differentials.
E-Locker
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
I'd personally straight axle the front before I invested a dime in the front diff. Or as you have plenty of experience with it.....drag cable. Longer time consuming but entirely the cheapest route.

Shawn nailed it, aside from the diff ring gear and related the external is much weaker when bound up and looking for traction. Early IFS hybrid builds for racing using those components rarely lasted a full race. Yeah racing but spinning around on loose dirt is nothing to finding good firm grip while moving some random load and weight of the truck.
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I am thinking of all the straight axle junkers I sold. Dammit. Probably won't come across another for years
 
just an idea...you could weld the front since it's a disconnect axle, wire in a switch so when you're in 4wd, only front left will spin...then when needed, you flip the switch and bam you have a locked front.
I will say this as others have mentioned, don't waste money on a locker for front...air/electric/etc because no matter what locker you put in the front, the IFS sucks complete ass when locked in!! You know my 2Door Tahoe crawler started out street rig...I welded it, and put front diff on a switch, and was only worth a darn if you were going straight lol. Couldn't turn for crap when locked in. I don't see a locker being any different other than it's "selectable" but again, so is welding the front since yours is disco type. They sell upgraded Tie Rods for IFS people (chevy/toyota guys) but that's more money to throw at it....so I bought new tie rods for mine, sleeved them with thick tubing to "beef" them up, it made a little difference but still sucked trying to turn when locked in. Maybe Heim joint tie rods might help another 15/20% but I just know I did a ton of research on IFS steering with locker and the results were from many chevy and toyota wheelers...it sucks period!! SO that's how I ended up swapping to Tons so quickly, and that resulted in what it looks like today haha.
 
skyhighZJ said:
FWIW I had a 2010 ram 3500 dually 2WD and it would get stuck on flat wet grass. Changed to a good set of toyo AT/II and never had another issue (given I wasn’t doing 4wd things) but it pulled trailers in and around a lot of rough/muddy terrain. Tires can make a huge difference on the ability of a vehicle.
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Tires make all the difference on my duramax trucks. I've had good luck out of the cheap crosswind MTs.
 
5k for an engine swap? Hope you put a Cummins in it :huggy:
 
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