IH Scout II build

well I finaly got all my patches done and got he first coat of herculiner down and im pretty happy with the results, tomorrow morning the second coat will go on.

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Alright I'm going to shed some light on dana 20 transfer cases. The morning started out by removing the scout 20 from the rig, got it sat next to the jeep dana 20. Studied them both, both have the same bolt patterns and uses all 5 mounting holes. So after sitting them side by side it was time to start taking them apart to swap over the front housings...........:popcorn:

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After tearing into both cases and finally getting the front housing swapped I found out that the shift rods are different lengths and realized that the shift rods from the scout case were needed.....and this is where im stuck. I can get one rod out but the other is impossible to get out without dissasembly of the shaft that is for the front d/s which has two bearings holding it together. Im debating on taking it to a transmission shop to get all the rods swapped out because i have no way of swapping the bearings, or just trying to find a scout dana 20 which isnt all that easy.

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Scout D20s are very easy to find if you look in the right places. Contact JPScout on this board and put out a request for a D20 here ...
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71481

Scouts rust away before the drivetrains are worn out. The remaining parts can usually be had pretty cheap.

Nice scout. A little tall for me, but a great start.

For your draglink, you could go highsteer (expensive) or you could make a new big DOM Z-link if it's just a trail rig.

You'll need DOM, ES150L & ES150R TREs, tube adapters, jam nuts, decent welder, paint.

The TREs are cheap at Autozoo and will fit in the scout knuckle. They will not work with a stock draglink or tierod.
 
Thanks for the info Scoutosis. Ive got a bead on a 4spd with a dana 20 out of a scout in Lexington Im going to try and pick up but thats a great thread, definitely will get some use outa that. And im going to try and find some dana 44 high steer knuckles at pull-a-part sometime this week to do a full high steer.
 
Billy, it's Ed. Scout is looking NICE! If you get bored with the scout and want to throw some stuff on my 80 while I'm over here in the desert I promise I won't get mad at you. Im def looking forward to wheeling the "ol driveway trails" at yal's house when I get home. Pm me me or call me and let me know if he has got anything done with the Blazer recently.

Oh and def go highsteer ... it will be bad-ace
 
Sweet looking twin stick, did u make it urself or order it :driver:
 
to the punisher, I got the twinstick kit with the scout when I bought it, but i did some research and found out that they are made by Duffy Dieu. He has a website 4x4machine.com but i dont think its a good link. He sells them on pirate for sure but he also has a number on his card (360) 779-2500

And to mudder, Its got a 345 in it now but come February i'm going to pull it and have the motor built
 
Thanks for the info, i'll check into it. I got a 300 out of a jeep with a 4 to 1 kit in it i'm puttin in mine, need a twin stick for it.:driver:
 
redneckjeeper94 said:
And to mudder, Its got a 345 in it now but come February i'm going to pull it and have the motor built
Click to expand...

You're building the 345? Why?

Just curious why you're pulling it and what your plans are. It's very hard to "hot-rod" an IH SV (small V8) without deep pockets and the gains are typically less than stellar.

Also, if you're keeping the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern and going high-steer, I'd look into converting to chevy knuckles/outers, spindles, calipers, with Ford rotors/hubs. There a few threads on Binderplanet that explain how to convert it. If you go this route, you'll need a different (shorter) pitman to match the shorter knuckler arms. I think a waggy arm works on the Scout box for this case.

If you need info on Scouts, search Binderplanet extensively. Lots of great info on that site.

-Jeff
 
are you sure that is not a big block 345? I am building a small block 350 for a guy and i have my 345 in the shop next to it , and the 345 looks 3time the size of the 350. "deep pockets" you can say that 10 times, over $500 just for pistons!
 
Well I've only done a little research about the engine and im kinda new to the whole rebuilding process and all But Ive called a few places locally and One place said for 1600 I can take them the engine, I get a rebuilt engine with a high torque cam, bored .30 over and all I have to do is stick it back in the scout which seems like a a good deal to me but again, I've only begun to research that aspect of it.

To scoutosis, Yeah I've been doing a lot of research on Binderplanet for my highsteer. Going to be spending a lot of time at pull-a-part one day lol. And im not wanting to "hot rod my 345 I just want to get a fresh motor thats all, with maybe a little more pep.

I really appriciate all the helpful comments guys. It makes things go a lot easier and points me in the right directions because sometimes I dont know where to go with certain situations. I dug into my transfer case issue a little more and figured out how to get that last shaft with the two bearings dissasembled. Tomorrow I'm going to get a bearing seperator and some bearing drivers and start working on swapping out the shift rods. I know its a lot of work just to swap a jeep dana 20 into a scout but im working with what I have and not spending a lot.
 
krehel24 said:
are you sure that is not a big block 345? I am building a small block 350 for a guy and i have my 345 in the shop next to it , and the 345 looks 3time the size of the 350. "deep pockets" you can say that 10 times, over $500 just for pistons!
Click to expand...

I'm about to drop some IH knowledge ...

IH didn't make a "small block" or "big block". They made SV, MV, LV (small V8 - 266/304/345/392, medium V8 - 404/446, large V8 - 478/549)

You'll only find MV/LV in large trucks (dumps, rollbacks, etc). FYI, the MV block design became the 6.9/7.3 IDI and Powerstroke found in Fords and 1983+ IHs.

If you can find an MV flywheel housing & bellhousing, you can use the old IH 5 spds with a Ford diesel.

Hi-jack off.

RNJ - From what I know, $1600 for a complete rebuild as you described is pretty reasonable. There are some simple "enhancements" you can do during a rebuild. Again, Binderplanet has those details.

Keep in mind that you can usually find a running 304/345 from free to ~$500.

PM me the engine shop, if you don't mind.
 
scout

this is a pic of the scout i am working on now. LOT of work to be done, had to cut out all the rust now i got to get the body back attached to the frame, not realy sure how i am going to do that. any ideas?
 

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HOLY DOG CRAP BATMAN! man thats a lot worse off than I was thinking. The only good way to get the body back onto the frame would be to make a new piece of floor and weld it back in.....find another scout body with no rust in that area (billy thinks about what you just said....scout no rust....), or try and find a replacement pan.
Well good news and bad news for mine. Got the transfer case completely rebuilt with new bearings, got it in, took it for a test drive.......................same problem. It makes a grinding/meshing noise when you get above about 25mph or so and only when you left off the gas or take out the clutch. So im thinking now that the problem is inside the transmission towards the back. So for now I'll just save up some money and get it rebuilt as well. Its wheelable but I dont trust it on the street. Oh well We shall see.
here are a few pics from today
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And some people just like to goof off
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Do you know if that transfer case and transmission is original to that scout?

The reason I ask - some "early" D20s in scouts had a different gear pitch than "later" model D20s. I think the older ones were 20*, later was 17.5*. I'm not exactly sure on the years/applications, but the change should be circa 1971. You can physically put the wrong ones together and have noise, heat, vibration issues. From what I've read, the gear pitch should be stamped on the gears.

May not be the issue, but may be worth checking.

What transmission do you have?
 
iight...after days of searchin and the more I thought about it, it cant be the throw out bearing. I went to binderplanet (best scout site ever) and found about 7 people that described the exact same problem that I was having right down to the T. People went through and rebuilt transmissions, rebuilt the xfer cases, and everything else. Didnt change a thing... Turns out some scouts when they are lifetd above 4" or so the slightest vibration from the drivetrain causes the shift forks/gears to make a lot of racket. The fix is to get a cv shaft for the rear. Some guys got the sound in fwd because they needed a cv shaft in the front, although I dont have a shaft in the front as of now so I know Its the rear causing the problem. WE SHALL SEE
 
Is your pinion currently pointing directly at the t-case? If so, you can try to lower it (increase the angle) instead of going CV just to see if it helps/changes. That'll just cost you a pair of cheap shims. Just a thought.

If you go CV, are you going the JY route or custom?

I think there are some stock shafts that may have a CV and the correct yoke spline counts, but none that I know of that are a perfect length for you.

By the time you find one and get it lengthened/shortened and put in new joints, it's probably worth it to just buy a custom shaft.

There are a few threads on BP about this.
 
yeah I read all the JY theads about the shafts, there is a place called ccc truck parts in clt that I've always taken my shafts to and they do top notch work so i'll prolly just get them to make me one, I've got some shims layin around i might try and see if it affects the noise any
 
Pretty sure it's the driveshaft angle had a cj that did the same thing, went through it all and found out it was drive shaft ,I hooked the rear of driveshaft to a pillow block brng and makeshift bracket and it ran quiet at a straighter angle.
 
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