Independant vs Solid axles Buggy design plans

Just as soon as I finished typing that I came up with another idea, would a chain driven transfer case mounted beside the transaxle work or would it be too wide too make it worth it.
 
if you really wanted to make that work, id use a honda engine mounted backwards in the middle/rear, weld the diff in the transaxle, and have 1 halfshaft run into a divorced case, such as a yota or sammi, and then you have all your range selections, as well as options for deeper gearing if you still wanted....
 
Kustom Fabrikated said:
Well I just came up with another idea that may be more suited with the independant suspensions. The problem that I have had with mounting a transverse engine and transaxle mid engine with a welded diff and driveshafts to both axles was the fact of full time 4x4. The only way I could think of before was to have manual hubs in the front and disengage them, which I didn't feelwas a great option. If I put a splined collar on the front driveshaft with pins where I could disengage the entire axle. The only way that I can see this being feasable is to use Ifs because of the driveshaft would not be moving along with the axle movement. Does anyone have any ideas on how I could improve on this idea or even if there is an actual way to do this that I have not been able to find. I would also like to have more than just 4lo
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Do a google for REMCO driveline disconnect....it's how a bunch of people running Toyota and Sammy stuff pull off front digs...not necassarily the Remco brand...but same concept...you can still run solid axles...
Search it on Pirate too...hours of reading...

I've also read (I think) that you can machine a Dana 30 ARB to fit in a Honda transaxle...BUT...if you unlocked it and pulled the rear brake seperatly...wouldn't the front spin in reverse assuming you had the trans in Drive due to the spider gears in the TransDiff...wait...no...yeah...right?
 
the easy way to make the fwd engine and transaxle work is to run an open driveline coupler. the ones i have seen have been on toyota transfer cases. i cant remember what brand they were. it dont matter about your driveshaft moving up and down with this style of coupler. they have a pilot shaft on one end and a internal bearing on the other.
 
I just read the hydrodynamic buggy build and that is just amazing but I think I'll stick to something a little simpler for my first buggy and I can't build something that will only go 30mph.

I looked into the REMCO driveshaft coupler and I think that will be exactly what I need for this if I do not go with a transfercase
 
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Thats from trailtough.com...there are other places to buy them as well for different applications
 
I like this whole discussion. IMHO you will see more people 'experiment' with IS setups. It reminds me of link suspensions 6-8 years ago.. "its to complicated" "its to expensive" "they don't work right" "no one makes parts/components"

Yes there are issues and limitations using whats available (or spend $$$) But I think over time the vendors will deliver what is needed to supply what people are using..

The above driveline disconnect is a perfect example.
 
Yeah i think it could work well but its a time/money issue for most. Total Chaos has done some impressive stuff from a bolt on stand point and they seem to do well. Couple years itll all catch on when people figure it out. Ill give it a shot one of these days....
 
Comment/question..

Isn't one of the inherent problems with IS, the fact that they tend to "jack" when the body is rolling? With high CGs, the body rolls so far then it will suddenly "jack" to the outside. This would explain a couple of things...Walkers comments on how their's worked 9 out of 10 times, (but the tenth being so bad!). Also why the M151s had a nasty habit of suddenly flipping over. Even Hummers suffer this sudden jacking effect, although it takes more to get em to that point, than the M151s. I even remember Volkswagen bugs being bad about this!

I believe this is due to strange roll centers and/or the way the roll center moves during suspension travel. The Hum-Vee is helped by its great width and the fact that its height isn't achieved through severe suspension angles but rather the offset drives at the wheel. This kept the suspension geometry reasonably level, such as a stock, civilian IS vehicle
 
I know the M151s had a tendency to over steer (ass end comes around) and for an unskilled driver this is dangerous and unpredictable. SO they went to a more conventional design that the average enlisted person could drive safely.. At low speed... While most cars are configured to understeer (plow/push) as you slow down your steering comes back.

All of the issues you've mentioned or similar were faced with links. The flopping effect was solved with sway bars... once deemed restrictive came back as an way to balance your suspension.. The COGs went from OMG to super low riders you see now..
 
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