Is anyone a roofer? Have questions, need roof.

YotaOnRocks said:
We typically use a peel and stick underlayment because our roofs come with what they call a water tight warranty. Means the manufacturer guarantees that it won't leak water inside for 45years. With that it can't have any penetration through the paper except for pipes,hoods,etc. But the metal manufacturers recommend at minimum a synthetic paper under the metal such as repel or titanium paper. Main thing is that whatever goes underneath isn't abrassive.
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So tar paper probably wasn't the best idea to put under my tin?
 
cgm147 said:
So tar paper probably wasn't the best idea to put under my tin?
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Yours is a little bit different because the roof is on purlins, and it's not over enclosed/inhabited space. The felt will probably cut down on the condensation, early morning dripping, etc. I just don't know how long it will last. Short of spending money on insulation, I'm not sure what else you could do there.
 
Every barn in NC with 5V tin roof has tar paper underneath. And all of them has lasted longer than the foundations. My house is 95 years old with 5V tin over tar paper with purlins. How many generations under you are you concerned for cgm147? :smokin:

Seriously, I've taken down like 10 barns. The tar paper seals to the tin eventually and doesn't come off too well after say 60-70 years. It becomes a backing for say. And a good one!
 
Okay, so I'm pushing my thread back to the top. Calling back the pros, @YotaOnRocks

I had someone quoting some stuff today, like a sweet new front door, and maybe some siding. He mentioned that replacing my awesome over-roof should be the priority, and he would do that before the siding or new windows. Looks like there may be some problems, and he spotted the same things that have made me pretty nervous in the past. Maybe a little sagging of the roof deck around the skylights, etc. Yay over-roof!

He said they do a lot of IKO Cambridge, which (after looking at reviews) seem to be pretty far down the pile for quality. So does a lot of IKO stuff it seems, but I'm not a roofer so I can't say. He was estimating about $300/square for the Cambridge, plus a little extra to remove the second layer of shingles.

Any of you roofer types want to suggest better shingles to look at, or maybe want to quote a job just north of Charlotte?

So far it seems the big favorite is Owens Corning Duration from my (limited) research.

I'm also open to other roofing options, and I'm not tied to asphalt shingles. I think I mentioned in this thread that I'd have a metal roof if the cost made sense, so maybe this is the time to explore that. That would be soooooper cool.

Garage is getting built this summer, and will now be smaller and breezeway attached (long story) so a nice matching roof would be great.


I need to find a good way to estimate my roof size. Anything wrong with just using the square footage of the house (plus the soffit overhang), and the roof pitch with some simple trigonometry? Too simple? Too complicated?
 
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$300 per square plus more to tear off old roof for shingles is high by at least 30%.

I typically budget $325/square for a 40-year metal roof and its been about right. Shingle prices have been about 30-40% cheaper.

I'd expect to be in the low $200s for cheap asphalt shingle roof.

If this is the 2nd overlay, you don't need to tear off the old shingles and save a few $.

There are calculators that will give you roof squares based on square footage and slope. It's basic but gets you close without a lot of time invested.

I'm using a 29 gauge ribbed metal roof on my remodel project. The roofer starts next week. If I could, I'd do metal on every house rather than asphalt.
 
rockcity said:
$300 per square plus more to tear off old roof for shingles is high by at least 30%.

I typically budget $325/square for a 40-year metal roof and its been about right. Shingle prices have been about 30-40% cheaper.

I'd expect to be in the low $200s for cheap asphalt shingle roof.

If this is the 2nd overlay, you don't need to tear off the old shingles and save a few $.
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Interesting, that is a lot cheaper than I thought for metal. A full tearoff is a good idea here, because there are a few deck issues that need to be carefully checked out, and maybe skylight and chimney sheathing replacement at the same time.

What kind of roof is a "40 year metal roof"? Can you name particular profiles, styles, etc., that I could look up to see what it looks like?
 
So I put the house footprint in SolidWorks (from the survey dimensions) to do an easy area calculation of a complicated shape. It's nominally 1700sqft, so 1905sqft after calculating the roof pitch area with a 12" soffit. So just slightly more because of a few soffit overhangs on another roof section, but fairly close pending actual measurements in daylight this weekend. Smaller than I thought though, and the guy though it was at least 30 squares when he eyeballed it.

So 19 squares, until I grab a tape measure and prove my assumptions wrong. Plus the garage, of unknown dimensions.

So how about that metal roofing? :D
 
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We use certainteed landmark/grand manor shingles most the time unless the owner wants cheaper. I don't touch the pricing side of things my brother in law does, but I'm pretty sure we charge around $250sq with tear off. Typically we agree to replace a few sheets of sheathing in the quoted price but if the damage is extensive we will charge extra.

Check out the metal roof systems here Metal Roofing Systems - Residential and Commercial Metal Roof and Steel Roofing System Profiles - Union Corrugating
.You would be looking at the master rib if on a budget. If you want to spend the extra money I recommend a snap lock standing seam roof.
Master rib
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And snap lock standing seam
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Yeah, I figure all the repairs are going to be extra because there's no way to quote that or estimate without staring at bad wood once the deck is bare.

Plus new skylights most likely.
 
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Call Paul Jones Roofing 704 624 0190 office or 704 254 3219 cell. He did me solid on my roof last year, Complete tear off and reshingle plus repairs as needed at a good price.
 
What pitch is your roof? I just finished 4 here in Raleigh @ 200 per square. I used GAF natural shadow 30/lifetime architectural shingles on them, but I can do Owens Corning and certainteed for a few bucks more per square.
I typically charge 40 per sheet replaced. I run a little roofing business as a side business. Let me know if I can help.


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josh m said:
What pitch is your roof? I just finished 4 here in Raleigh @ 200 per square. I used GAF natural shadow 30/lifetime architectural shingles on them, but I can do Owens Corning and certainteed for a few bucks more per square.
I typically charge 40 per sheet replaced. I run a little roofing business as a side business. Let me know if I can help.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I believe it's a 12/6 pitch. I'm planning on putting a digital level on it today or tomorrow to verify, I just need to grab a ladder on the back deck.
 
Old picture from 2012 I think, before we owned it. I've got rid of every bush and crappy arborvitae in that picture except for the awesome Japanese maple. The footprint is only about 1400 sqft. It's actually a simple roof, the porch roof and the upstairs bathroom bumpout at the upper right are the only bits that aren't part of the same continuous area.

That half round window haunts my dreams. It's getting replaced with something that isn't shitty looking.

download.jpg
 
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We used Davis roofing when we did our house a couple years before we sold it. I'm pretty sure they travel all over. They had the best price I could find. They use GAF and have a lifetime warranty I believe. We did the architectural shingles. They looked really nice. Not sure if they do anymore or not, but they did support Victory Junction.

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Sorry to hijack, but I would guess this question would help OP anyways. I'm needing a roof replacement as well in the next 2-4 years.

Is there any real benefit to hand nailed vs. nail gun?
 
Macdaddy4738 said:
Sorry to hijack, but I would guess this question would help OP anyways. I'm needing a roof replacement as well in the next 2-4 years.

Is there any real benefit to hand nailed vs. nail gun?
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Only that, when hand nailed, the worker is paying more attention to what they are doing. Less likely to get nails that are not fully set with hand nailed.

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Macdaddy4738 said:
Sorry to hijack, but I would guess this question would help OP anyways. I'm needing a roof replacement as well in the next 2-4 years.

Is there any real benefit to hand nailed vs. nail gun?
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Make sure they go by manufacturer specs. Some companies won't warrenty if shot with a gun. People set the air pressure to high and when they nail rips the shingle or punches threw it.

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OK, here's a question too - my house is in need of a new roof in the next year or so I would say. It is shingled now, the original roof from 1994. My house has a ton of trees around it and it dumps a shitload of pine straw and shit on it. Once or twice a year I get it cleaned off, but the stuff gets trapped in all the rough spots on the roof and there is pine straw everywhere. Would a metal roof have an advantage over a shingle roof in this situation? I just see the pine straw sliding off the metal better than the shingles. Not sure my house lends itself to a metal roof, but I vastly prefer a metal roof to a shingled roof.
 
Macdaddy4738 said:
Sorry to hijack, but I would guess this question would help OP anyways. I'm needing a roof replacement as well in the next 2-4 years.

Is there any real benefit to hand nailed vs. nail gun?
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We only hand nail the shingle roofs we do. We just did 480sq. Of shingles all hand nailed. If someone won't hand nail your roof they are lazy. Problem with gun nailing is as stated. They blow through the shingle and keep going. I've also repaired roofs that had clusters of 4-5 shingles sliding off where some moron ran out of nails and didn't notice. When they did notice they were too sorry to go back and see where they stopped shooting.
 
I think we're going to get rid of the chimney chase and the fireplace. Chase is rotting and leaking, and the fireplace has obviously not been used in many, many years. We'll gain about 25% more upstairs closet space, and also be able to get rid of the stupid ceramic tile hearth extensions in two rooms (it's a see through unit with doors on both sides). And clean up the roof lines a bit. Might be able to open up the downstairs wall to go more open plan as well, but need a structural engineer to determine what we can do there because the chase is on a load bearing interior wall. The chase is not the problem, the chase is just currently in the spot where the structural problem would be.

I don't think a 1989 polished brass wood-burner adds anything to house value in NC, and I don't really care if it does. It's kind of cool thats it's see through, but I'm sure not paying the cost of a gas unit to replace it for $4k plus install and chase repair. I don't want a stupid fireplace that doesn't even do a good job as a room decoration.

It's off topic, but I just needed to vent. :D
 
@YotaOnRocks, does the Union metal color hold up well? Last metal roof I had went from burgundy to pink in less than 10 years :rolleyes:. That's my only reserves with a metal roof.
 
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