Sorry about my post, I kept remembering stuff and editing it.
Installing a distributor is pretty easy. Even if you haven't done it before, there's so much info on the 'net that you should be able to get it in the without too much problem.
Plus, surely you know someone who could lend a hand.
Never done that carb swap, you're on your own there.
Oh, the gears only come with one pre-drilled hole so can line them up perfectly. You install the gear, run the drill bit through the one hole and through the shaft, then drill out the other side. Evidently there is some difference in AMC shafts. MSD gears come this way, too.
Essentially what the larger cap that Ford came up with did, was make the distributor comparable to an HEI, which already has a large cap. They copied the HEI posts, too.
Don't believe that crap you can read about HEI's arcing inside the cap and welding the advance weights, blowing through rotors, etc. That's all a bunch of crap that the anti-HEI folks on other forums have been purporting. I've drag raced for years, and used HEI's quite a bit of that time. I had one with a stock module on a big block Chevy, with 12-1 compression and about 625hp. Turned it over 7k a few times (not on purpose) and it never missed a beat with that old HEI. Changed to an MSD 6AL, and I thought it started a bit quicker and sounded snappier. But it ran the exact same times.
If you let your plugs get worn completely out, with like a .080" gap, you might see some funny things happen, but I tend to think that anyone with a Jeep these days will never drive it enough to get that kind of wear....even if they did neglect tune ups for enough time for this to occur. Keep it tuned up, you won't have problems....and if you do, it's easily fixable, and parts are readily available.
BTW...the "originator" of the Team Rush deal claims that you shouldn't "ever" gap your plugs to .055 or higher like DUI and other makers tell you to, or it'll create problems and won't help.
The OWNER of DUI, Mr Davis, told me in a PM that they've been gapping plugs as high as .070" and seeing results on dyno tests for years, with no negative repercussions. I tend to believe the people who have actually done the testing, rather than some internet jockey who delights in having a forum full of n00bs who think he's a god.
Think of it this way: Why would a company that obviously wants to be viewed as reputable and selling a great product recommend something that would cause a problem with that product? They're not idiots. If my choice is to believe some self-appointed "genius" on the internet who sounds knowledgeable or a well-known company with years of great service which is acknowledged by that "genius", I'll choose the well-known company every time.
