Is this the right HEI/DUI upgrade for my 258?

Caver Dave said:
I keep seeing this repeated over & over, but... my OEM (read: at LEAST 30 year old) blue grommet Motorcraft box is in it's 3rd vehicle (got it from R. Britt when I bought the 304, was in his CJ, & came from a JY) and hasn't missed a lick in 6 years. OTOH, I can't discount doing it right from the get go... I used a factory DS harness as opposed to monkey crimping connectors. I ended up giving away the brand new NAPA spare I carried after a few years.
I know some folks have problems, but they'll never tell you their wiring is a rat's nest or they were trying to run cheap modules from Bangladesh... just that DS is bad. Brent did the HEI module on his after frying a couple $10 ChinaZone DS boxes and hasn't had any problems, but it hasn't got more than an hour runtime since :rolleyes:
I'll likely go to the ECM controlled version of the HEI module when I start the TBI swap.
I just don't think blanket statements like HEI is better than DS or the Mopar box for that matter are fair, given the many variables...
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I will concur that a perfectly installed Crapaspark with a FOMOCO factory module, perfect installation and vacuum tight conditions is every bit as good as a POS thrown together HEI set up....but I doubt thats what you were saying.

This fact remains, the HEI ignition system has been installed from the factory in more vehicles than any other distributor ignition system ever in existence, that fact alone makes parts and spares plentiful and cheap.

I like a remote coil mount with the HEI but thats a personal opinion and no fact basis to it, just never liked the spring and rubber grommet set up.
 
But what Skyhi and Caver are forgetting is that with the HEI 4 pin module, you can remove any resistance wire of Ballast resistor from the ignition system. This allows you to run a full 12V Ignition. But you can't do that with the Duracrap module.

You see, when you have your ignition to the Start position, you shoot a full 12V thru the system (or whatever your battery is putting out). Then after you're running, and the ignition key is back to the RUN position, your ignition is rerouted thru either a resistance wire or ballast resistor to drop your ignition back to 6V. Why? because when your starting, you need more juice, but after that, the Duracrap module can't sustain 12V. It wasn't meant to. The HEI module is built to run 12V. and it's a MUCH simpler unit.

No mine hasn't had that much run time with the HEI module. but it's had enough to speak to reliability and performance increase. I'm gonna pat my back here a little and blow a little sunshine up my own ass with the next comment, but I do not know of any other Carb'd engine, of my peers that fires up as fast as mine does. (after I make sure the float bowl is full of fuel that is :rolleyes: )

Pacfan. the TeamRush initial set up is what you described, but he also put together systems that were upgrades over the original idea of a big cap and different coil. I've known Aaron (TeamRush, JunkyardGenuis) for several years over several boards, and he is very enlightened on ignition systems, however a bit disturbed mentally and an ass quite often ;) But don't condemn his whole idea with out knowing all the set-ups that he has written about. Are they his ideas? I don't know and don't mush give a rats ass, but it is a damn good set up! and I'd take the Ford TFI/HEI combo over any other ignition set up personally. Oh ya, and it knocks the socks off the MSD I had too.

:beer: to all.
 
mbalbritton, I never said there was anything wrong with the large cap/team rush upgrade. It will work fine.
But the OP has expressed concern with his ability to replace a distributor....so I'm guessing that fabbing a coil mount and replacing advance springs aren't too high on his "easy to do" list, either.
We on the boards here could easily walk him through installing a distributor.
The large cap/team rush/tfi upgrade is essentially converting the Motorcraft system to be the equal of what the HEI already is.

So I think that the HEI is the easier option for him, in this case.

You're right: JYG/TR/Jeephammer, in a world of buttheads, is their king. That's why he's been banned at multiple sites....and even under all three of those names at one site.
He's pretty much run off all the people at Jeepforum who used to help out a lot.
Yes, he has a lot of info, and COULD be a very integral part of the online wheeling community....but that only works if everyone bows down to him. The minute anyone calls him out on anything, he either attacks, whines to the mods, or both.
He seems to have some problem with HEI's...and has made up all sorts of "problems" that they supposedly have...all extreme situations, none of which will happen if you keep your engine in a good state of tune.
 
danattherock said:
The biggest concern I had was the gear grinding. I even see on 4wd Hardware that the gears only have one hole in them, requiring you to drill the other hole.
The hole in the 4wd HEI is for a roll pin and doesn't require any drilling.
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Seems everyone agrees on ignition upgrades:shaking:


Where I sit now is with a MC 2100 being ordered tonight. Either doing the teamrush type upgrade (TFI) the ebay vendor will sell with the MC 2100 or buying a DUI and having a mechanic install it and the MC 2100 at the same time. Not sure if I can do it properly or not. After 28 years of good times, I don't want to screw things up now:)
 
Either way will work fine. Just more work involved with the team rush, but it's cheaper.

If you get the DUI, get it from DUI, not a vendor....they will custom tailor the advance curve to your engine.
 
Thanks man. Great info. I had read where ordering direct would decrease the likelyhood of the timing being off. Just did not understand why.
 
danattherock said:
Thanks man. Great info. I had read where ordering direct would decrease the likelyhood of the timing being off. Just did not understand why.
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Well, I'm guessing that there aren't too many different curves needed for a 258 anyway, so even if you did get one from say, 4wd Hardware, it'd probably be fine.

But DUI does ask you some questions about your setup and tailor it for you if you get it directly from them.

I know there have been claims (again, by that certain individual) that all HEI's (other than DUI) have too quick or too much advance for a 258. Even provided pics of someone's engine that failed due to spark knock. (detonation)
I'm a bit skeptical.....no way of knowing the other problems these engines have had...maybe they were simply timed too high.

Anyway, since you're considering the DUI, that won't be an issue regardless.

BTW, if you want to try that installation yourself and can't find anyone around there to help, if you want to make a road trip up here I'll gladly help you with it.
 
PacFan.. seems you know JYG just as well as I do :lol: all good :beer:

dan, you said you ordered an MC2100. man... I can't help but think you're throwing your money around. If you paid more than $60 you threw that extra money away. IF you can cancel the order or return it, do that and run down to the Junkyard and grab one for $20-$30 then go by the parts store and get the $30 rebuild kit for it. ya it sounds like more work, but once you rebuilt it, you'll also understand the carb and how it works. you can't put a price tag on that ;)

Wether you go with an HEI distributor, or ford TFI/HEI set up it'll be a vast improvement over what you have now. between the mc2100 and updated dizzy, you've picked two of the better upgrades you can do to your jeep. now put a Cage in it so you will be around long enough to enjoy it on the trail. :D
 
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