jeep cuts of when stopping

Assuming it has the original Carter carb, they are famous for that. Swap in a MC 2100 and it will run like new.
 
^ nope, there is a write up about that swap somewhere on here.

or just get somebody familiar with carbs to adjust it for the time being
 
Or it could just be a vacuum hose on your carb with a hole in it or it may have popped off.
 
Even if it is a vacuum leak, replace the carb with the mc 2100 with the 1.08 ventura. This will negate any future problems! It is an easy swap. Also look for the (nutter bypass) out on the net. This will also will make for a better running jeep!

here is one for the nutter bypass writeup. And a good diagram to help out too!

Http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/electrical/jn-ignition99/

http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm

and annother great upgrade is the HEI distributor swap...

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/electrical/hei02/
 
Something I've seen cause a similar problem is old oil & crud on the starter causing a darin / short. It was a '91 YJ would cut off at stops unless I kept the RPM up.
 
X3 on the MC2100

Here are some linky's for you to start with, P/M me if you need more. Also may want to think about John Nutters Bypass & the Team Rush Ignition upgrade.http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/index.php Sign in to this board & search MC2100 & MC2100 database. Also on that board search "Nutter Bypass". On the CJ forum there is a guy named(Junk Yard Genius) He invented a distributer cap & rotor upgrade using a larger 2 piece Ford cap. Sometimes people mistakenly refer to this as the T.F.I. It's really the Team Rush Upgrade. Another search will give you the rest of the info you will need. These three upgrades (all done by me) have made my 1990 YJ run like a top. P/M me if you get stuck on any of this & I'll help you or anyone doing these mods. One thing, do the carburetor rebuild yourself. It's real easy & then you'll know the carb should you ever need to work on it. Mine was the only carb I ever rebuilt myself, if i can do it anybody can.
 
Im trying to get my carb and if I understand corectly the only carb thats not gonna give me trouble is the 2100 with 1.08 right? Ive seen guys on here talkin bout 1.24 and others that r givin them problems.
 
do the nutter bypass. Brothers 88 yj had the exact same problem. Did the bypass thing and it ran GREAT afterwards
 
Did the Nutter Bypass on my 89 YJ and it made a world of difference. I also switched to a weber carb and ripped all of the emissions crap off of it.
 
murphystoys said:
Im trying to get my carb and if I understand corectly the only carb thats not gonna give me trouble is the 2100 with 1.08 right? Ive seen guys on here talkin bout 1.24 and others that r givin them problems.
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That is correct, & remember by the time you get one from a junkyard rebuild it, do the install & get it set up right, you'll have only spent about $100.00 - $120.00. You'll also have a very good understanding of how it works. If you buy one already done, you lose that valuable knowledge, & spend more $$$
 
murphystoys said:
buckshot what do you think about the weber carb?
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From what I've heard, they work well. Some folks have some problems with them once in a while, but if set up properly they do work well. That said, Forget about the weber & re- read my last post, & the one before it. This took me A week to get the carb, get it all done & all the details worked out. The actual rebuild, not counting the overnight stay in the dunk bucket took 2 hours altogether. I was being meticulous & extra careful about each step though. Think of how impressed your friends will be, when you tell 'em you did that. You weren't taking no for an answer. You were gonna make that heep work if it was the last thing you did FTW!
 
murphystoys said:
where did you get your adapter plate or does it have to have one?
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IIRC, it's Mr.Gasket part#1937. Not positive though. All the info I have found is in the link, look for the post with lots of links. It might take some time to sift through all the info, But if you keep a notebook & record the details pertaining to your needs it will be worth the effort. One thing about the adapter that may not be mentioned. When you get the carb you'll be using, match up the adapter to the carb base. If it does not cover the drivers side totally, (there may be a 1/8" gap, mine had this) there is a trick using J-B weld epoxy. you clamp A piece of plastic to the carb side of the adapter & make a J-B weld extension between the bolt ears. You will know once you see it & not all MC2100's have this some match right up. Also see the note in those links about plugging up the thermal choke passage in the carb using J-B weld, otherwise it will leak vacuum.
 
One suggestion I would have. Check engine internals before you do anything with the carb. A friend and I did the 2100 swap on his 258 and never could get it to run right only to find out that the motor had no compression!
 
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