JKU opinions wanted...

Oh and the 4 door that drags belly hard everywhere led me to 40s.
I came from a tube Toyota and I'm not used to body panels I want to stay nice but I tend to put mine in places that it's either send it and make it or smash a panel or three... Hopefully not both.

Solution: 1st gen 4runner on toy axles w/ elockers and 37s. Enough room for the wife and kiddo if they want to join, but won't hurt your feelings if you bang the body up a little (or hell...just exo cage it).
 
I know what opinions are like but I'm stuck on spending a little money occasionally or a lot of money soon.

I have these stupid aftermarket housing Dana 44s under the jeep now. I have built them to the point that there isnt much left to do to make them stronger and I'm starting to get into breaking stuff. Currently have 35 spline chomo shafts front and rear, arb lockers, aftermarket ball joints, all the goody bits you can throw at a 44.

I have taken out two rear axle shafts in the last year, one bent and twisted, one broke off at the splines.

I am debating on putting a 60 out back and saving up to do a 60 out front but im worried that I'll start regretting only going with 60's.

Im running a stock drivetrain, geared 5.13, automatic and a non rubi case, 40" nittos on spyderlocks. If Im going to upgrade axles I dont want to worry about blowing them up if I have to give it a full send it style bump up over something.

What are the thoughts on a 60 holding up or should I keep saving my pennies and build or buy a set of 70s?

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What did you decide to do? I want to upgrade to 40s and know I'll have to do something for axles. I dont want to throw money at the 44s because in the end it's probably not going to hold up. I know building a pair of 60s will be more cost effective, but I'll probably end up buying a set of built axles so everything is plug and play. I'm halfway through the tread life on 37s so need to begin planning now. Curious to know what you finally decided on.
 
What did you decide to do? I want to upgrade to 40s and know I'll have to do something for axles. I dont want to throw money at the 44s because in the end it's probably not going to hold up. I know building a pair of 60s will be more cost effective, but I'll probably end up buying a set of built axles so everything is plug and play. I'm halfway through the tread life on 37s so need to begin planning now. Curious to know what you finally decided on.

Buy bolt in 60s. You’ll be light years ahead of built 44s.

East coast gear supply can get you setup.
 
What did you decide to do? I want to upgrade to 40s and know I'll have to do something for axles. I dont want to throw money at the 44s because in the end it's probably not going to hold up. I know building a pair of 60s will be more cost effective, but I'll probably end up buying a set of built axles so everything is plug and play. I'm halfway through the tread life on 37s so need to begin planning now. Curious to know what you finally decided on.

Decided since my only actual failure have been due to ring and pinion deflection in the rear axle and axle shafts breaking in the rear axle that I would upgrade to a rear 60, leave the front 44 alone with its 35 spline chromo shafts and upgrade it when failures begin to be a more common occurrence.
 
Just flat belly it and drop it down the 37s. It’ll still be 2” higher than you on 40s. And cheaper than upgrading anything.
 
Decided since my only actual failure have been due to ring and pinion deflection in the rear axle and axle shafts breaking in the rear axle that I would upgrade to a rear 60, leave the front 44 alone with its 35 spline chromo shafts and upgrade it when failures begin to be a more common occurrence.


Good to know, thanks for responding.
 
My concern with a 14 bolt is cost vs performance. I was thinking that I would be looking at
200$ in tone rings, machining, wheelspeed sensors
200$ shave kit
200$ machining for shave kit
$1000 for a new ARB
$500 for a set of gears
$500 more for installation
$500 more for a braket and truss kit
$500 more for misc screw ups along the way
$750 for a late model 14bolt

IM looking at a lot of work and fabrication/down time for just the rear axle and im only a few grand away from an entire set of 60s with all the guts built and ready to go. Im just slightly worried about the rear axle strength in a 60 because I havent ever gotten this far into a wheeling habit before having my wife shut down the hobby.
Hard Core ProRock 62/60 Axle-Set™ for Jeep JK

Get smaller tires.:flipoff2:
 
D60 front, 14 bolt FF rear.

This is the correct answer unless you can afford to buy "$$$$ bolt in built 60's $$$$"

Or, Keep the JK like it is and buy a buggy?

Or, replace one axle at a time like you mentioned?

14 Bolt, don't shave it, not worth the trouble, 14's are built like dozers - you'll break the rock, not the housing!

Live with idiot lights for awhile? Don't worry about the tone rings, do that later?

Is this going to remain a daily driver? if not, put a spool in the rear, you don't even need to engage the front axle!

Spools track straight down the road, drive great, just watch out in the rain (they do eat tires quicker though). I ran a spool in my 14 bolt for 10 years, run spools in my Rockwells now.

It takes serious V8 power and huge tire weight to even think about breaking a 14 Bolt. Only reason I left a 14 Bolt was the lowest gear I could find for it back then was 5:13.
 
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Decided since my only actual failure have been due to ring and pinion deflection in the rear axle and axle shafts breaking in the rear axle that I would upgrade to a rear 60, leave the front 44 alone with its 35 spline chromo shafts and upgrade it when failures begin to be a more common occurrence.

So, I went same route.... D60 in rear. Just waiting on wheels/tires/driveshaft/brake lines to wrap up install. All should be in this week. Only other thing left to do is figure out what to do about parking brake. Did you ever pull the trigger on yours?
 
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