JKU opinions wanted...

Exploderpilot

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2005
Location
Winston Salem, NC
I know what opinions are like but I'm stuck on spending a little money occasionally or a lot of money soon.

I have these stupid aftermarket housing Dana 44s under the jeep now. I have built them to the point that there isnt much left to do to make them stronger and I'm starting to get into breaking stuff. Currently have 35 spline chomo shafts front and rear, arb lockers, aftermarket ball joints, all the goody bits you can throw at a 44.

I have taken out two rear axle shafts in the last year, one bent and twisted, one broke off at the splines.

I am debating on putting a 60 out back and saving up to do a 60 out front but im worried that I'll start regretting only going with 60's.

Im running a stock drivetrain, geared 5.13, automatic and a non rubi case, 40" nittos on spyderlocks. If Im going to upgrade axles I dont want to worry about blowing them up if I have to give it a full send it style bump up over something.

What are the thoughts on a 60 holding up or should I keep saving my pennies and build or buy a set of 70s?

Picture for attention
ZeYu-SySQ_QghdD_UiamIdleq5TerywKdC3u-OKb1RGwHu9E7DA74v54JEYbxde-7md8B-9y_GhxMfwx1YPZbv2xfhdruIczUGRJkxpcqgBBskd2fo8DsRnUbRoz2l6k5mRJoSmMi8jFS7zZ98JCUJYNME205W11whrgPXQSnP8Ftse7kuqDziAAx8NFCskIF0xjS3nYJFzTJryXzvGsCaU1RQXiBJ3DLmofY8SZ1BQgkf9Z22gLOI2adt2cCkveWtpHs7Ur7TXflrIo9soGj40YY0v3iezr3U9W7Za2mommT-Mtph9iJz64ygkgnEEVLoxc81iPtYN9AQLyU85NKCs9TccXXLHFKIbL8F-bR80sbXpwA3Wbb4OxpdBbxUx0_po6bhziq2zyljk6IxTqcY-inyfkwTmXW40CveS6UrZAJHkPH0GyuaJ2eckReED9XNa3p2-HHNQ8gzsXctUd4rIcnOpmZMw9XhuCUC9cjN0EXGwEbwvoBgtAtswoFfKbcLJRLs33dt03stzbjqnera2aXFxMhHOGKyQgdPtTCv-xZGrGKNsxLHbChWi8NKshfaXn3dK63b_Skc3ct3DlslIb6O86Ou_Kh55pvfegBGK2_tnYlJPoITjHG4pyGQfPtXBmzDINHYtNqT245_NDZzNa=w720-h960-no
 
D60 front, 14 bolt FF rear.
 
You need a full float rear to keep from bending shafts.
Later model 14 Bolts are easily adapted to JKs. Then you can start saving pennies for a SD60 up front.
Bonus that you can sell your old/current axles to recoup some coin.
 
My concern with a 14 bolt is cost vs performance. I was thinking that I would be looking at
200$ in tone rings, machining, wheelspeed sensors
200$ shave kit
200$ machining for shave kit
$1000 for a new ARB
$500 for a set of gears
$500 more for installation
$500 more for a braket and truss kit
$500 more for misc screw ups along the way
$750 for a late model 14bolt

IM looking at a lot of work and fabrication/down time for just the rear axle and im only a few grand away from an entire set of 60s with all the guts built and ready to go. Im just slightly worried about the rear axle strength in a 60 because I havent ever gotten this far into a wheeling habit before having my wife shut down the hobby.
Hard Core ProRock 62/60 Axle-Set™ for Jeep JK
 
If your wife hasn’t shut you down yet why not go full blown Rockwell axles :D

What led you to 40s? Sounds like 37s could save you some axle breakage. Can you shed some excess weight?

If you are looking for a budget friendly option there are handfuls of built tons ready to go minus some brackets (usually).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The budget doesn't really go to the dynatrac limit yet. I'm just concerned by the time I piece together a front and rear axle I'll have spent more than just buying a bolt in set. Like I was saying I never got into wheeling hard enough to have any experience outside of stock axles.

Oh and the 4 door that drags belly hard everywhere led me to 40s.
 
Exploderpilot said:
If Im going to upgrade axles I dont want to worry about blowing them up if I have to give it a full send it style bump up over something.
Click to expand...

I can tell you this much, a properly setup 14 Bolt will take more abuse (and I say this respectfully) than your JK on 40" Nittos can throw at it. A Dana 80 sounds great, especially if you're a Wayalife mod, but they are way overkill for that application.
I'm not trying to sell you on a 14 Bolt or anything. But judging by your post, you're questioning potential regret with a rear axle upgrade "smaller" than an 80.

If I'm not breaking a 14 Bolt with 400+ HP, sticky 43s and a complete lack of concern for my rig's well being, you'll be fine too.
 
Just trade me for this and be done with it. 14 bolts front and rear. :)
36533495_1715722058534766_3803268195729539072_n.jpg
 
Jody Treadway said:
I can tell you this much, a properly setup 14 Bolt will take more abuse (and I say this respectfully) than your JK on 40" Nittos can throw at it. A Dana 80 sounds great, especially if you're a Wayalife mod, but they are way overkill for that application.
I'm not trying to sell you on a 14 Bolt or anything. But judging by your post, you're questioning potential regret with a rear axle upgrade "smaller" than an 80.

If I'm not breaking a 14 Bolt with 400+ HP, sticky 43s and a complete lack of concern for my rig's well being, you'll be fine too.
Click to expand...

That's why I'm asking here... The typical jeep forum guys seem to be more of dynatrac fanboys than actual tech. I came from a tube Toyota and I'm not used to body panels I want to stay nice but I tend to put mine in places that it's either send it and make it or smash a panel or three... Hopefully not both.

My other fear with a 14 bolt is keeping the computer happy since I'm running a 3.6 and automatic and it goes to limp mode if all the sensors don't read right.

If someone on here can build a 14 bolt and make it jive with the computer I'm down for being your customer.

Oliver's said:
Just trade me for this and be done with it. 14 bolts front and rear. :)
36533495_1715722058534766_3803268195729539072_n.jpg
Click to expand...

If you had another seat in that thing you would have a deal. I got the JK because my wife wanted to be comfortable when she came with me on trips. Since I got the JK she has been out once.
 
SD60 and Sterling combo sounds like a more economical swap then. Comparing strength between the Sterling and 14 Bolt, they are neck and neck. Adapting the WSS on the Sterling is easier than on a 14 Bolt IIRC.
Me, I like brute strength and assuming it can be made to work, I like the 14 Bolt. I have a mechanical speedo and no ESP/ABS/etc to deal with however.
 
Ok, let's look at the details.

Currently have 35 spline chomo shafts front and rear. I have taken out two rear axle shafts in the last year, one bent and twisted, one broke off at the splines.

Then let's look at how this will be addressed with upgrades.

A Dana 60 rear is normally 30 spline. A dana 70 (common in early 80's ford 3/4 and 1 tons) is 35 spline. A 14 bolt has less splines, but the same size as a 35 spline shaft.

So if you were busting ring and pinions, ball joints, or housings those would all be great reasons to upgrade, but the problem you are mentioning in my opinion is not a good reason to upgrade.

With your problem you will notice virtually no difference by upgrading axles. You can get 40 spline, but that's a bit crazy. I run 35 spline in my bouncer (see avatar pic) with cut 44" boggers and haven't broken on yet.

So why are you breaking 35 spline chromoly shafts? It might be a problem with your ARB or low quality shafts. I would try to test the ARB and see if maybe it's occasionally unlocking and relocking which could cause shock load. If you have an air leak or bad o-ring on the ARB it might cause it to unlock. I'd also try a different brand of shafts.

If you replace the ARB with a spool there's a good chance you won't have any more problems.
 
all im saying is you could sell your JKU to some crazy jk people wanting to look good mall crawling. buy a v8 one ton juggy, or buggy with stickies and still have money left over to send the wife to the beach while you go beat the hell out of your new rig.


EDIT: your rig is also at the point where you will have the greatest return on resale. most people with jks dont want a jk on tons. you spend 10,000 grand on tons front and rear you could probably add 3500 to what you think your jeep is worth now.

for 10,00-15,000 you can find some pretty decent turn key rigs.

you go to tons youll want to push your rig and fallow buggies, fallowing buggies or any hard wheeling your going to get body damage in the south. out west youd be fine but there are lots of trees and rocks that you will find.
 
Last edited:
Exploderpilot said:
Since I got the JK she has been out once.
Click to expand...

Gave up my favorite bike (Hayabusa) because the wife wanted to "ride WITH me"

Flew to Ft Myers Florida to pick up a perfect bike for "US" (BMW Rt1150 with heated seats, intercom....all kinds of farkles)

She attempted to ride on 2 rides (I say attempted...we turned around less than 1/2 way to the turn around point both times because she was hot/cold/hot/cold/hungry/had to pee)

Sold THAT bike and bought a track GSXR and supermoto for ME :rolleyes:

She's never been on the trail with me in the Baby billy goat, and made no provisions FOR her in it :huggy:
 
Exploderpilot said:
That's why I'm asking here... The typical jeep forum guys seem to be more of dynatrac fanboys than actual tech. I came from a tube Toyota and I'm not used to body panels I want to stay nice but I tend to put mine in places that it's either send it and make it or smash a panel or three... Hopefully not both.

My other fear with a 14 bolt is keeping the computer happy since I'm running a 3.6 and automatic and it goes to limp mode if all the sensors don't read right.

If someone on here can build a 14 bolt and make it jive with the computer I'm down for being your customer.



If you had another seat in that thing you would have a deal. I got the JK because my wife wanted to be comfortable when she came with me on trips. Since I got the JK she has been out once.
Click to expand...


I hear ya. I got the single seat because my wife will not ride with me (made her shit her pants to many times in the last buggy). A major plus to the single seat is keeps random folks I didn't know from being able to ride with me. :)
 
Exploderpilot said:
My other fear with a 14 bolt is keeping the computer happy since I'm running a 3.6 and automatic and it goes to limp mode if all the sensors don't read right.
Click to expand...

I’m running a 14 bolt in the back of my ‘12 4dr. Vks tone rings, artec speed sensor tabs, and computer is happy. I have no abs or tc issues/lights running this setup. I used an older 14 bolt and I should have used a later model version as they are wider. The only other thing to consider with running a 14 in a jk is gas tank clearance. Mine hits slightly under certain articulation conditions. It’s not bad, and I’ve seen no need to even address it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
GubNi said:
Ok, let's look at the details.

Currently have 35 spline chomo shafts front and rear. I have taken out two rear axle shafts in the last year, one bent and twisted, one broke off at the splines.

Then let's look at how this will be addressed with upgrades.

A Dana 60 rear is normally 30 spline. A dana 70 (common in early 80's ford 3/4 and 1 tons) is 35 spline. A 14 bolt has less splines, but the same size as a 35 spline shaft.

So if you were busting ring and pinions, ball joints, or housings those would all be great reasons to upgrade, but the problem you are mentioning in my opinion is not a good reason to upgrade.

With your problem you will notice virtually no difference by upgrading axles. You can get 40 spline, but that's a bit crazy. I run 35 spline in my bouncer (see avatar pic) with cut 44" boggers and haven't broken on yet.

So why are you breaking 35 spline chromoly shafts? It might be a problem with your ARB or low quality shafts. I would try to test the ARB and see if maybe it's occasionally unlocking and relocking which could cause shock load. If you have an air leak or bad o-ring on the ARB it might cause it to unlock. I'd also try a different brand of shafts.

If you replace the ARB with a spool there's a good chance you won't have any more problems.
Click to expand...


IMO- too much tire on a semi-float axle shaft. A full float rear would take the weight off the shaft(s) and put it on the hub.
 
Back
Top