Killer Weldz Thread

Well, they're not the most impressive, but I'm pretty proud. As much of the weld as the fact that I'm working the positioner simultaneously. I've incorporated the positioner and some other techniques into my daily life at work to increase the shop's (me) productivity and quality exponentially.
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That video was cool.... I like that whole contraption all the way down to the arm rest:Rockon: How thick was that material?
 
Only about .125 at the butt, .250-.3 at the wall. School. 40, essentially. That's about as code as I can get to automated welding and not innovate myself out of a job! Once you get used to it, it makes life easier. You're using all four limbs, though.
 
catfishblues said:
Only about .125 at the butt, .250-.3 at the wall. School. 40, essentially. That's about as code as I can get to automated welding and not innovate myself out of a job! Once you get used to it, it makes life easier. You're using all four limbs, though.
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yeah I want one
 
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Showoff. Nice work, no doubt. I can't tell if you were walking on some of those, or just laying several beads. Spill it! I can weld pretty well, but I need practice cutting and bending. That's where the real creativity lies.

Oh, and I forgot to add, I was using a 50/50 mix of Ar and He welding on that al, and I HIGHLY recommend it if you do much al over 3/8". The gas savings and time savings will pay for it in no time. I can run 200A through 1/8" tungsten without dropping the ball, and the increased penetration is immediately noticeable. Breheating has pretty much been relegated to only the thickest parts.
 
catfishblues said:
Showoff. Nice work, no doubt. I can't tell if you were walking on some of those, or just laying several beads. Spill it! I can weld pretty well, but I need practice cutting and bending. That's where the real creativity lies.
Oh, and I forgot to add, I was using a 50/50 mix of Ar and He welding on that al, and I HIGHLY recommend it if you do much al over 3/8". The gas savings and time savings will pay for it in no time. I can run 200A through 1/8" tungsten without dropping the ball, and the increased penetration is immediately noticeable. Breheating has pretty much been relegated to only the thickest parts.
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None of that, it was all free hand weaving.... And Yeah Helium really lights up a puddle FAST, if i'm not mistaken the one time I tried it was on a skid plate with 100% Helium Maybe?:confused:
 
DavidG4x4 said:
None of that, it was all free hand weaving.... And Yeah Helium really lights up a puddle FAST, if i'm not mistaken the one time I tried it was on a skid plate with 100% Helium Maybe?:confused:
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The highest concentration I've used was 75% He. Seems the more you get in there, the dirtier the weld gets. It just doesn't seem to clean as well as Ar. I might could counter that if I had more control over the arc, with freq and pulse controls and such, but I've got what I've got and it works for what we do. I think I'd like to hang around your shop for a couple of weeks, though! :beer:
 
DavidG, that TIG work is the real effing deal. Very nice heat signature from your filler. Is that stainless or ER-70S6?
 
Cool. Looks great. Were you using a stubby backing cap/tapered cup for the axle bracketry work?
 
I was wandering if you were pre-beveling most pieces or relying on the joint shape to control your depth of penetration. Those beads are slick and look alot like non-fill cap passes in places. On the wider areas it looks like a weaving cap pass on some beads. On others a double pass with stringers and I'd assume a hot root pass each with filler. I've run weaving caps with filler added at each crown of the weave but don't useually end up with a flat to concave pattern that I see on some of those passes. I was curious about the timing or the where in the puddle you are adding the filler to get some of those weld profiles.
 
Does anyone use a push-pull lead for alum? We have a demo in the shop and are having trouble dialing it in. What we have seen is you have to push the puddle to keep a clean weld and we are using argon gas. By the way I agree this thread should be called "I'm an artist with a welding lead".
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
I was wandering if you were pre-beveling most pieces or relying on the joint shape to control your depth of penetration. Those beads are slick and look alot like non-fill cap passes in places. On the wider areas it looks like a weaving cap pass on some beads. On others a double pass with stringers and I'd assume a hot root pass each with filler. I've run weaving caps with filler added at each crown of the weave but don't useually end up with a flat to concave pattern that I see on some of those passes. I was curious about the timing or the where in the puddle you are adding the filler to get some of those weld profiles.
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Not too sure what you mean by non-fill cap passes or a weaving cap pass or a double pass with stingers....:confused: sorry explain again?

I usually do a root pass weld and a weave pass weld and that's about it
 
mmcj7 said:
Does anyone use a push-pull lead for alum? We have a demo in the shop and are having trouble dialing it in. What we have seen is you have to push the puddle to keep a clean weld and we are using argon gas. By the way I agree this thread should be called "I'm an artist with a welding lead".
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are you using a spool gun on a mig welder?
 
Its a lincoln power mig(350mp) and .067 alum material.
 
I've got that same welder at work, and had the same Cobramatic gun hooked up. Holy hell, I hated that setup! The synchronous adjustment is a bitch to get dialed in. The welder itself just doesn't seem to perform well. Not as well as our Miller, at least. The only thing the Linc has on the Miller 350mp is the ability to do TIG. I took off the Cobramatic and went to a standard Tweco gun on the Linc before I had a chance to try it on aluminum. They tried it before I started working there, and nobody seemed to be able to get it down. I'm sure I could if I had some professional guidance on it, but for now, I'll stick with TIG.
 
We have switched the leads so we can use it on stainless right now but plan on more alum by the end of the week.
 
mmcj7 said:
We have switched the leads so we can use it on stainless right now but plan on more alum by the end of the week.
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If your really wanting to figure it out post on here all the information you can gather about what settings you are working with and how it is turning out, maybe even some pictures and list the settings for each one.... even wire thickness, gas etc etc etc

Again, I've never handled a spool gun but the problem sounds interesting and I'll throw my opinion out there(whatever that may mean) when you get a bunch of information? Someone on here may be able to help?

oh and another thing with a spool gun I'd imagine we are trying to figure out how to make decent penetration and a "smooth", healthy bead..... it's probably not going to look like a million bucks either way:confused:
 
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