Locker front or rear, and best one?

waparson

Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2011
Location
Albemarle, NC
My brother just got him a 2000 XJ and is loving it, just ordered his RC 4.5" lift, got some 31's and wants a locker now.

Someone told me its better to have the front locked if you only have one or the other done. But then I read that you need locking hubs or axle disconnects to drive with a locker on the road?

Is that true? Or should he just lock the rear for now and worry about the front later?

Also, going to start putting his lift on Friday, any tips or tricks to making it go smoothly? Anything particular to watch out for?

Thanks guys
 
On that vehicle I'd lock the rear. The front will just grenade with a locker.
 
sounds good enough for me. Also heard that there are 8.25 rears and dana 35's, any way to look and tell what he has? Guessing theres a tag on it somewhere?
 
I think 97' & up were the 8.25 compares in strength to a d44.
 
D30 grenade with a locker? Nah, not on 31s.

I locked my front axle first. No noticeable difference on the road when you go with a lunchbox style locker. Spartan locker seems to be the way to go now, but Lockright is what I run. With 31s, you can't go wrong with either of those.

As for identifying the rear axle:

awww.custom4x4fabrication.com_diffguardtype.jpg



To give you some perspective. I ran 34" LTBs, locked on stock shafts in my 91 XJ. Never broke a single shaft, but did break MANY u-joints which usually breaks the ears on the shafts. I now run 38s on the same lockright locker, with chromoly shafts and nitro excalibur u-joints.
 
Ok, maybe we will do the front first. They're definitely d30's stock up front right?

May go with a lockrite as a friend suggested them.

I really appreciate all the help.
 
waparson said:
Ok, maybe we will do the front first. They're definitely d30's stock up front right?

May go with a lockrite as a friend suggested them.

I really appreciate all the help.
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I'm rockin an Aussie in my 30 on 35" tires...she's held strong and its taking me a lot further, quicker then any of my friends with rear only (I'm front only).
just my 2cents though. :beer:

^ But yeah, def would NOT lock the rear (if its a D35).
 
Definately lock the front first. Got a TJ with front locker and 33's all stock doing great. Can't tell it's there except off road. Got another one with locker in the rear and hate it on the road.
 
I'm gonna agree with most so far. Lock the front. It will be totally un-noticable on the road. I've run my TJ open, locked front only, locked rear only and locked front/rear. Just the front being locked worked better than just the rear. Go for an aussie or lockright and enjoy.:beer:
 
Definately the front... locking an 8.25 gets pricy unless you plan to weld the spiders.
 
I'll have to say lock the rear first since most of the time you need a locker you will be going up an incline. With that most of your weight is transfered to the rear where you need both tires to spin where as your front will just spin and not have any weight to pull you up. Thats just my opinion though:beer:
 
topless toy said:
I'll have to say lock the rear first...:beer:
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Agreed.

The rear does most of the work 90% of the time due to weight transfer. Best to have the two that are planted pullin' than the two that are lifting!

4bangertj said:
...especially if its a 35
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If its a 35, I wouldnt waste any money locking it! I would spend my money on another rear!
 
Which ever you decide on front or rear locker both have there advantages. I would say do not get a spartan locker I would go with either a lock right or an aussie locker. I have messed with all 3 and spartan has given the most trouble and difficulty to install and take out. Having a luchbox locker on the road in the front axle wont change the way it drives much but you will notice a little difference.
 
topless toy said:
I'll have to say lock the rear first since most of the time you need a locker you will be going up an incline. With that most of your weight is transfered to the rear where you need both tires to spin where as your front will just spin and not have any weight to pull you up. Thats just my opinion though:beer:
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x2, and I wouldn't waste money putting a locker in a Dana 35 like others have said.
 
If it were me I'd lock the front and weld the rear, even if I drove it on the road. But then I like the spool tire chirping sound. :)
 
I'll probably be locking the front for him. And if its not a 8.25, whats a decent rearend to look for, a d44? He probably wont ever go too extreme, so I think a d44 would be sufficient. What model/year of vehicle do I need to look for one out of?

Thanks for all the quick replies
 
Look for an 8.25. Easiest swap. Bolts right in. D44 is very hard to find. Other option is an 8.8 from an explorer. It requires welding. But it also gives you disc brakes.

Be sure to get the 8.25 from a 97+ so you get the 29 spline shafts and not the 27 splines. However, I highly doubt you have the D35 in that XJ. The D35 only came in models that were equipped with rear ABS. 8.25 was non-abs.
 
cltdba said:
Look for an 8.25. Easiest swap. Bolts right in. D44 is very hard to find. Other option is an 8.8 from an explorer. It requires welding. But it also gives you disc brakes.
Be sure to get the 8.25 from a 97+ so you get the 31 spline shafts and not the 28 splines. However, I highly doubt you have the D35 in that XJ. The D35 only came in models that were equipped with rear ABS. 8.25 was non-abs.
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FTFY
An 8.8 swap into an XJ is about the easiest axle swap that isn't a direct bolt in. Well worth it, IMO.
 
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