long travel shocks, who makes em (13"+travel)

marty79

marty79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2015
Location
Newton, NC
I already have the superduty rear shocks on my jeep but need longer now. the current superduty shocks have exactly 13.25" of total travel, not bad but would like more.
Is there a company that sells longer travel shocks without going to coilovers/air shocks? thanks guys
(I've been looking but coilovers and air shocks is all that comes up)
 
I'm glad I'm back in time to see this.
 
An den
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I know I shouldn't but here it goes...

Why? I'm no expert and definitely not most experienced out there but I've definitely paid attention to some things. You don't need massive amounts of flex/wheel travel to do off-roady things. Does it look cool on the rti ramp? Yeah maybe to some, but just because you can do something doesn't mean you should.

For reference my turd muffin of a shit box has 10" shocks up front and 12" shocks out back. I can't think of a time where I needed more travel. It maybe could've helped, definitely not a need though.

If some of that doesn't fall on deaf ears I'll explain more but I'm sure this will be like any other fuller thread and I'll be eating popcorn and watching a dumpster fire.

To answer your question yes, most white body shock come up to 15" long. (Pro Comp, Sky Jacker, Rancho, Doetsch, etc.) Basic ones should only run ~$60 a shock. You can also splurge and there's some big name shock companies that make 16"-18" travel shocks and If you find some of the mega mud truck stuff I think they can go all the way to where they measure in feet instead of inches.
 
Jody Treadway said:
An den
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ok in all fairness i never thought to type in "automotive" in the text, my bad and thank you.
Chris_Keziah said:
Why? I'm no expert and definitely not most experienced out there but I've definitely paid attention to some things. You don't need massive amounts of flex/wheel travel to do off-roady things. Does it look cool on the rti ramp? Yeah maybe to some, but just because you can do something doesn't mean you should.

For reference my turd muffin of a shit box has 10" shocks up front and 12" shocks out back. I can't think of a time where I needed more travel. It maybe could've helped, definitely not a need though.
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Well I don't want to start that "how much flex is too much debate" cause well, we're all different and we wheel different styles and terrains. My rig is built a certain way and I like it to be stable, period! Stability simply means keeping tires on the ground, in simpler definitions anyways lol so I'm wanting to achieve just that. My rig flexes pretty darn good but I get to certain point, wheel picks up way earlier than I want it too and I've got the drive angle for it, I've got the setup for it so why not?
As far as a "need" well, the times when I don't need much travel it'll work just fine, but those times when having long travel with my tires and crawl ratio, it will really help if my axles are planted. I only need it for the rear, until I redo my front to a triangulated 4 link here soon then that'll be next
 
jeepinmatt said:
I'm glad I'm back in time to see this.
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hey what the heck lol, just a simple question. Oh wait, nevermind you're right nothing I do stays simple ....we've made progress though in last year or so, hardly get a page or two in my "threads" compared to before LMBO
 
marty79 said:
ok in all fairness i never thought to type in "automotive" in the text, my bad and thank you.

Well I don't want to start that "how much flex is too much debate" cause well, we're all different and we wheel different styles and terrains. My rig is built a certain way and I like it to be stable, period! Stability simply means keeping tires on the ground, in simpler definitions anyways lol so I'm wanting to achieve just that. My rig flexes pretty darn good but I get to certain point, wheel picks up way earlier than I want it too and I've got the drive angle for it, I've got the setup for it so why not?
As far as a "need" well, the times when I don't need much travel it'll work just fine, but those times when having long travel with my tires and crawl ratio, it will really help if my axles are planted. I only need it for the rear, until I redo my front to a triangulated 4 link here soon then that'll be next
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o_O didn't know you needed lots of travel for all that driveway wheeling your junk does. I'd suggest getting it out to some real parks before you end up in the never ending cycle of building and never wheeling.

Just because tires are on the ground doesn't mean a rig is stable, carrying a tire is not uncommon at all. I've had a couple of times I was glad i carried a tire. @77GreenMachine and @adamk que the sketchy tire rebead.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
o_O didn't know you needed lots of travel for all that driveway wheeling your junk does. I'd suggest getting it out to some real parks before you end up in the never ending cycle of building and never wheeling.

Just because tires are on the ground doesn't mean a rig is stable, carrying a tire is not uncommon at all. I've had a couple of times I was glad i carried a tire. @77GreenMachine and @adamk que the sketchy tire rebead.
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well as a matter of fact my rig is out in the woods almost every weekend between 2 local places, sure it ain't harlan or windrock but it gets used and abused and I've been slowly working out all the quirks, modifying things and constantly getting it better. By the time I'm able to hit one of those hard places, it'll be that much more reliable and capable compared to if I had taken out there say 6 months ago. I play on some rocks and obstacles and a friend with 40+acres has some kick ass land I've made trails on so I'm learning what my rig does, wants to do and not want to do and modifying from there.
 
Here is what I learned about my cherokee trying to get it to be more stable on and offroad. If you are running radius arm set up with a proper steering and track bar you will more than enough flex. Then the issue becomes what is usable flex. If your spring is becoming fully unseated then you are past the point of usuable flex because then you have no weight left on that tire. That is where you get the tippy back fourth feeling from. If you are not locked in the front then you are stuck because there is no more downward force on that side to maintain traction.

I should have done this before I ordered my shocks but I did not have away to do it. I should have waited and figured out away. Pull your springs and set the jeep at full bump. Measure for your "collapsed" length. Then put your springs back in and flex one side at a time till the springs is just barely not unseated. Then thats your extended length. I would add 2 inches to that so you don't blow shocks out. But that will require you to then run limit straps.

Long story short I was trying to do what you did with out the proper knowledge and now I have too long of shocks. And could have saved a good chunk of change on a cheaper set that would have worked better.
 
Keith1138 said:
Here is what I learned about my cherokee trying to get it to be more stable on and offroad. If you are running radius arm set up with a proper steering and track bar you will more than enough flex. Then the issue becomes what is usable flex. If your spring is becoming fully unseated then you are past the point of usuable flex because then you have no weight left on that tire. That is where you get the tippy back fourth feeling from. If you are not locked in the front then you are stuck because there is no more downward force on that side to maintain traction.

I should have done this before I ordered my shocks but I did not have away to do it. I should have waited and figured out away. Pull your springs and set the jeep at full bump. Measure for your "collapsed" length. Then put your springs back in and flex one side at a time till the springs is just barely not unseated. Then thats your extended length. I would add 2 inches to that so you don't blow shocks out. But that will require you to then run limit straps.

Long story short I was trying to do what you did with out the proper knowledge and now I have too long of shocks. And could have saved a good chunk of change on a cheaper set that would have worked better.
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You GTFO here with that first hand knowledge regarding the topic at hand
No room for that around here.
 
Jody Treadway said:
You GTFO here with that first hand knowledge regarding the topic at hand
No room for that around here.
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You are right there ain't room for anything around here with BTL running around.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 
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Jody Treadway said:
Brake lines make great limit straps.
Those braided ones from Earl's are the tits.
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I heard using your drive shaft angle works great too to limit down travel on the drivers side.

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Hahaha, nice to see you guys making jokes about something simple that a guy wants. I dont get is what's it to you if someone wants long travel suspension, to you maybe you see it as retarded but to each their own. Yeah sure flexing beyond spring unseating has been discussed.. debated..and most say its useless but I was told my doubler setup is/would be too but that has worked flawlessly beyond even my expectations so to each their own. Y'all just like to fuss and pick on me i know lol
 
marty79 said:
Hahaha, nice to see you guys making jokes about something simple that a guy wants. I dont get is what's it to you if someone wants long travel suspension, to you maybe you see it as retarded but to each their own. Yeah sure flexing beyond spring unseating has been discussed.. debated..and most say its useless but I was told my doubler setup is/would be too but that has worked flawlessly beyond even my expectations so to each their own. Y'all just like to fuss and pick on me i know lol
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Doestech is where I got my shocks from. I recondmend calling them once you have your measurements and they will be able to get you set up.

I just dont want you to end up like me trying to get all the travel then ending up with barely enough shock exposed at ride height for bumps and dropping down with out bottoming them out. Hence right now why I only have like 3 inches of up travel at ride height before I hit my bump stops. All the rest of travel is down travel.

Trust me spitting a spring on the trail isn't fun because it's usually in a bad spot. I got lucky and was able to find a semi flat spot to tire stack so the guys with me could put it back in and make limit strap out of a ratchet strap.

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Keith1138 said:
Trust me spitting a spring on the trail isn't fun because it's usually in a bad spot. I got lucky and was able to find a semi flat spot to tire stack so the guys with me could put it back in and make limit strap out of a ratchet strap.
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Been there lol, my springs are tied in place at the bottom no movement whatsoever.
And I gotcha on the up travel stuff, mine has tons of both which is why I want to utilize it.
 
@marty79 the link I posted from Rusty's is the typical white colored shocks that mostly every shock company sells. There should be an application there with the extended/compressed length you need with travel accounted for.
I'm sure you know how to measure for shocks, but just in case: Remove shocks, compress suspension on one side. Measure between mounting holes. Measure opposing side. That will be your compressed/extended lengths. The difference is your travel. Don't let the shock be the limiting factor in suspension travel either direction.
Make sense?
 
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