long travel shocks, who makes em (13"+travel)

Jody Treadway said:
@marty79 the link I posted from Rusty's is the typical white colored shocks that mostly every shock company sells. There should be an application there with the extended/compressed length you need with travel accounted for.
I'm sure you know how to measure for shocks, but just in case: Remove shocks, compress suspension on one side. Measure between mounting holes. Measure opposing side. That will be your compressed/extended lengths. The difference is your travel. Don't let the shock be the limiting factor in suspension travel either direction.
Make sense?
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Copy cat.....

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Keith1138 said:
Copy cat.....

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Jody Treadway said:
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Jokes on you im so young I don't get that reference.


But in all seriousness measure measure measure before you order your shocks. Then set up limit straps. One on each side. Idk what you use as straps as long as your not using your brake lines to limit your travel. You could even go old school and use some chain for limit straps like they did when dinosaurs roamed the earth. If you are planning on doing like baja style driving dont use chain.

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Jody Treadway said:
Listen up, junior. You'll really enjoy wheeling when your nuts finally drop down. :flipoff2:
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Atleast i don't have to worry about sitting on mine like you do when you need a break from walking with your walker.

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Keith1138 said:
Atleast i don't have to worry about sitting on mine like you do when you need a break from walking with your walker.

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Good thing about my sagging nut sack is I don't to squat down as far to tea bag you when you're laying under your broken down Cherocar blocking the trail.
Age has it's advantages.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Good thing about my sagging nut sack is I don't to squat down as far to tea bag you when you're laying under your broken down Cherocar blocking the trail.
Age has it's advantages.
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Atleast my cherocar knows what to indetify as unlike your shit box of a "crawler". Its more confused about its identity than a liberal sophomore college student in California.

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Keith1138 said:
Atleast my cherocar knows what to indetify as unlike your shit box of a "crawler". Its more confused about its identity than a liberal sophomore college student in California.

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You have a point. I can see where you Gen Zs have a hard time making out what a vehicle with a Ford emblem on the grille that says Ranger on each side actually is.
Kinda like how your kind thinks having a pecker allows you to identify as a 5 adjective female.
 
Keith1138 said:
If your spring is becoming fully unseated then you are past the point of usuable flex because then you have no weight left on that tire. That is where you get the tippy back fourth feeling from. If you are not locked in the front then you are stuck because there is no more downward force on that side to maintain traction.

I should have done this before I ordered my shocks but I did not have away to do it. I should have waited and figured out away. Pull your springs and set the jeep at full bump. Measure for your "collapsed" length. Then put your springs back in and flex one side at a time till the springs is just barely not unseated. Then thats your extended length. I would add 2 inches to that so you don't blow shocks out. But that will require you to then run limit straps.

Long story short I was trying to do what you did with out the proper knowledge and now I have too long of shocks. And could have saved a good chunk of change on a cheaper set that would have worked better.
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I generally agree with your post but wanted to add just a little bit about the part in bold. Assuming there is no bind (radius arms, trackbar, steering, etc) you will obviously still have the weight of the wheel/tire/axle combo on the contact patch, but also, the leverage force from the flex occuring on the opposite side. Generally speaking, the springs are 3.5ft apart, and the wheels are 6.5ft apart, so theres about a 1:3 leverage ratio that occurs where the spring on the compressed side acts as a fulcrum to balance the upward force of the compressed tire. Therefore, you still may have a decent amount of weight on the extended tire, even though the spring is unweighted, because it is now transferring through the other spring into both tires. Body angle (right to left AND front to back) and axle angle also have an effect on this relationship. So there are definitely situations where the additional flex could be useful even if the spring is unweighted.
 
jeepinmatt said:
I generally agree with your post but wanted to add just a little bit about the part in bold. Assuming there is no bind (radius arms, trackbar, steering, etc) you will obviously still have the weight of the wheel/tire/axle combo on the contact patch, but also, the leverage force from the flex occuring on the opposite side. Generally speaking, the springs are 3.5ft apart, and the wheels are 6.5ft apart, so theres about a 1:3 leverage ratio that occurs where the spring on the compressed side acts as a fulcrum to balance the upward force of the compressed tire. Therefore, you still may have a decent amount of weight on the extended tire, even though the spring is unweighted, because it is now transferring through the other spring into both tires. Body angle (right to left AND front to back) and axle angle also have an effect on this relationship. So there are definitely situations where the additional flex could be useful even if the spring is unweighted.
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Dang man. You gonna make @Keith1138 hunt down a safe space if you're not careful. Be gentle.
 
jeepinmatt said:
I generally agree with your post but wanted to add just a little bit about the part in bold. Assuming there is no bind (radius arms, trackbar, steering, etc) you will obviously still have the weight of the wheel/tire/axle combo on the contact patch, but also, the leverage force from the flex occuring on the opposite side. Generally speaking, the springs are 3.5ft apart, and the wheels are 6.5ft apart, so theres about a 1:3 leverage ratio that occurs where the spring on the compressed side acts as a fulcrum to balance the upward force of the compressed tire. Therefore, you still may have a decent amount of weight on the extended tire, even though the spring is unweighted, because it is now transferring through the other spring into both tires. Body angle (right to left AND front to back) and axle angle also have an effect on this relationship. So there are definitely situations where the additional flex could be useful even if the spring is unweighted.
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Thats really cool I did not know that. I figured there still had to be weight on that tire. I figure it wasn't much more than just the weight of the wheel, tire and axle.

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Jody Treadway said:
Dang man. You gonna make @Keith1138 hunt down a safe space if you're not careful. Be gentle.
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I dont need a safe space. You are probably going to go for a ride on your bike with out the seat to take your mind off of this later.

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Keith1138 said:
I dont need a safe space. You are probably going to go for a ride on your bike with out the seat to take your mind off of this later.

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And then one day your pile can make it almost as far up the same trail as my bike. I'd say we would split a celebratory drink, but I likely won't have any Zima for ya.
 
Jody Treadway said:
And then one day your pile can make it almost as far up the same trail as my bike. I'd say we would split a celebratory drink, but I likely won't have any Zima for ya.
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Zima you mean your prostate exam prep?

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jeepinmatt said:
I generally agree with your post but wanted to add just a little bit about the part in bold. Assuming there is no bind (radius arms, trackbar, steering, etc) you will obviously still have the weight of the wheel/tire/axle combo on the contact patch, but also, the leverage force from the flex occuring on the opposite side. Generally speaking, the springs are 3.5ft apart, and the wheels are 6.5ft apart, so theres about a 1:3 leverage ratio that occurs where the spring on the compressed side acts as a fulcrum to balance the upward force of the compressed tire. Therefore, you still may have a decent amount of weight on the extended tire, even though the spring is unweighted, because it is now transferring through the other spring into both tires. Body angle (right to left AND front to back) and axle angle also have an effect on this relationship. So there are definitely situations where the additional flex could be useful even if the spring is unweighted.
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So then that begs the question of what is an acceptable amount of spring separation? I've always kind of written off the force the tire has on it after spring separates from the bucket. Partially from the generic driveway flex test and being able to move the tire on the full extension side. Your almost going to cause me to draw up a FBD just to see what kind force is applied to the tire with the spring under an inch of compression vs an inch of separation.

Makes me really want to get a set of scales and a fork lift and waste a bunch of time drinking beer and doing sketchy things.
 
That makes me wonder what type of selectable locker in a dirty thirty is the best in that case. Since you do have alot of travel going on so you have to be aware of lines and wires running down to the diff. Would air, cable, or elocker be better?

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Keith1138 said:
That makes me wonder what type of selectable locker in a dirty thirty is the best in that case. Since you do have alot of travel going on so you have to be aware of lines and wires running down to the diff. Would air, cable, or elocker be better?

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He has a 60 up front, not a 30.
One day when you pay off your student loans for that degree in Middle Eastern basket weaving theology that you can't find a job with, you'll be able to upgrade your front diff too.
 
Jody Treadway said:
He has a 60 up front, not a 30.
One day when you pay off your student loans for that degree in Middle Eastern basket weaving theology that you can't find a job with, you'll be able to upgrade your front diff too.
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But my high-school guidance counselor said there would be jobs for me with that degree and that I could make a difference in society.

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jeepinmatt said:
I generally agree with your post but wanted to add just a little bit about the part in bold. Assuming there is no bind (radius arms, trackbar, steering, etc) you will obviously still have the weight of the wheel/tire/axle combo on the contact patch, but also, the leverage force from the flex occuring on the opposite side. Generally speaking, the springs are 3.5ft apart, and the wheels are 6.5ft apart, so theres about a 1:3 leverage ratio that occurs where the spring on the compressed side acts as a fulcrum to balance the upward force of the compressed tire. Therefore, you still may have a decent amount of weight on the extended tire, even though the spring is unweighted, because it is now transferring through the other spring into both tires. Body angle (right to left AND front to back) and axle angle also have an effect on this relationship. So there are definitely situations where the additional flex could be useful even if the spring is unweighted.
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Thank you Matt I was too lazy to type all this, well said
 
Keith1138 said:
Thats really cool I did not know that. I figured there still had to be weight on that tire. I figure it wasn't much more than just the weight of the wheel, tire and axle.

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With 1ton axle, trussed, 4 link triangulation and 40" tsl that's plenty of weight just in itself without the opposite side spring applying pressure.
 
marty79 said:
With 1ton axle, trussed, 4 link triangulation and 40" tsl that's plenty of weight just in itself without the opposite side spring applying pressure.
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I didn't know you ran on 40s and 1 tons. I know with my dirty 30 and 34s there wouldn't be much weight

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Weld two short travel shock bodies together. One upside down of course. That way to have the shaft on top and bottom. Then you can pack a lot of travel in a tight space.
seriously though. Post up in the wanted section for some 14in shocks. I’ve gotten a few sets for cheap over the years used. Good luck buddy

edit: I think I have some 14 inch rough country shocks you can have if you want them
 
Van-go said:
Weld two short travel shock bodies together. One upside down of course. That way to have the shaft on top and bottom. Then you can pack a lot of travel in a tight space.
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holy shishkabobs bro, LMBO. I came across a picture of what you're talking about and wow, can't believe someone actually did it...so you're saying that actually works. I mean I know I'm ghetto, and my rig is pretty much all ghetto but I really didn't want to go "that" ghetto LOL but jokes aside, you're saying it works? let me guess, you could have "dual rate" too!!!! :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
Van-go said:
I think I have some 14 inch rough country shocks you can have if you want them
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sure I'll take em, and if you're ready for some grooving I'm ready now that I'm slowing down on jeep work a little, whew. Have you seen my tires, daiuuummm (you thought them thornbirds were bad, my 40" TSLs are freaking amazing). Hit me up if you and anyone else you know is in need of some grooving, I'll give you guys best price I can!!
 
Keith1138 said:
Would air, cable, or elocker be better?
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called Lincoln Lockers bruh LOL, I've never known anything else, lockers are too rich for me and my rig
 
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