M101a1 trailer resurrection and rebuild.

baggednissan said:
So how much do you think you have in this (free) trailer at this point. Its pretty cool to bring something back that would have other wise been scrap. Nice job.
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Gas to go get it. $75
Axle: $50
Gas to Atlanta and back and visit with a friend. $100
4 tires mounted on the rims: $400
U bolts: $50

So $675 Right now.
 
Caver Dave said:
I'd use the cheapest 235-305 LR "E" tires available, to keep it as low as possible šŸ˜‰
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I've been researching metric size tires that are close to the 9 r 16. Looks like a 35x10 R16 or a 36x 10 R 16 would work well. I might have a buyer for the 11R16. He wants them for his M715.
 
Put the trailer on the trailer for the trip to the shop for the modificationā€™s and reenforcing. One wheel didnā€™t turn easy and both would loose dirt when the were jacked up and spun. Iā€™ll have to pull the drum and check the bearings over there.
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More work on the trailer today. Added 2 braces to the tongue. One near the pivot point and one at the front of the bed. Was unable to get the drum off so I pulled the hub nuts and hub. Was pleasantly surprised to find good new grease on the bearings. Used the shop press to get the drum off the hub. I believe one of the brake levers is bent and was engaging the shoe to the drum enough to cause the drag I was feeling. Iā€™ll tear in the other side next weekend.
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So been thinking about how I want to make this dump. Normally people lock the drum brakes pull the tongue bolts and back up. I was contemplating using a Jack or HF engine hoist cylinder. The cylinder would have more throw. Ideally Iā€™d want it mounted center of the tongue. However I would have to transfer the throw horizontal to vertical lift. The other option is a bottle Jack that lifts the front. Anyone have any thoughts or links? My google isnā€™t showing anything I like.
 
ghost said:
So been thinking about how I want to make this dump. Normally people lock the drum brakes pull the tongue bolts and back up. I was contemplating using a Jack or HF engine hoist cylinder. The cylinder would have more throw. Ideally Iā€™d want it mounted center of the tongue. However I would have to transfer the throw horizontal to vertical lift. The other option is a bottle Jack that lifts the front. Anyone have any thoughts or links? My google isnā€™t showing anything I like.
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both of those options are only single acting, which means that you will have to manually released the cylinder, and hope that the empty bed weighs enough to compress it.

Having it balanced on the pivot just right, where it automatically wants to dump when the pins are pulled, is another way. Putting electric brakes on the axles and doing what the others are, might be the easiest approach.

Are you going to want to be able to use a spreader gate and slowly dump the load, or just empty it all each time? The latter is easier to accomplish than the first.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
both of those options are only single acting, which means that you will have to manually released the cylinder, and hope that the empty bed weighs enough to compress it.

Having it balanced on the pivot just right, where it automatically wants to dump when the pins are pulled, is another way. Putting electric brakes on the axles and doing what the others are, might be the easiest approach.

Are you going to want to be able to use a spreader gate and slowly dump the load, or just empty it all each time? The latter is easier to accomplish than the first.
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The axle has a mechanical brake. The cables are broken and replacing them might be an issue. From my research so far no one reproduces them. The mechanical option might be the best. with the brakes locked I just pull forward and it pulls the trailer back down. Goal really is to just be able to dump firewood or dirt. No need to spread anything at this point. If I use a jack of some sort I should be able to just pull the front down I believe. Just looking at options right now.
 
Because of where the pivot point is (ahead of the axle) you are correct that with the brakes locked and you pulling forward will cause the bed to lower after dumping. The issue is that because the pivot point is not over the axle, it means that you will be exerting a lot of force against the tongue and frame to use the ā€œbrake locked dump methodā€. A small electric over hydraulic scissor lift setup would be the best option although definitely not the cost effective option.

Like this:

3 Ton (6,000 lb) Dump Trailer Hydraulic Scissor Hoist | PH310 | Perfect for Dump Beds & Trailers (Hoist Only) Amazon product ASIN B078JHV4SZ
 
skyhighZJ said:
Because of where the pivot point is (ahead of the axle) you are correct that with the brakes locked and you pulling forward will cause the bed to lower after dumping. The issue is that because the pivot point is not over the axle, it means that you will be exerting a lot of force against the tongue and frame to use the ā€œbrake locked dump methodā€. A small electric over hydraulic scissor lift setup would be the best option although definitely not the cost effective option.

Like this:

3 Ton (6,000 lb) Dump Trailer Hydraulic Scissor Hoist | PH310 | Perfect for Dump Beds & Trailers (Hoist Only) Amazon product ASIN B078JHV4SZ
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That is why I reenforced the tounge and pivot point. That is way out of the budget. I've got some ideas on brake cables but I thought I'd see what the smarter people here would suggest.
 
ghost said:
That is why I reenforced the tounge and pivot point. That is way out of the budget. I've got some ideas on brake cables but I thought I'd see what the smarter people here would suggest.
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Well Iā€™m certainly not smarter so I shall stay in the wings and wait patiently lol
 
ghost said:
That is why I reenforced the tounge and pivot point. That is way out of the budget. I've got some ideas on brake cables but I thought I'd see what the smarter people here would suggest.
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Is it not possible to convert to electric brakes? That seems like it would make dumping from the cab much easier.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Is it not possible to convert to electric brakes? That seems like it would make dumping from the cab much easier.
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If I swap axles yea. No idea on the axle that is in it. Even with electric brakes I'll have to get out to release the front.
 
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So Harlan and some other things stalled this. I could not find the brake cables. After a few searches I fond this thread. M101A1 hand brake cable

"If you have the M101A1, then the part number you posted is wrong. The NSN and part number for the M101A1 is: NSN 2530-00-967-6278, part #15785800."

Lead me to eBay.

2) Brake cable Assemblyļæ¼ P/N 15785800 Push Pull 2530-00-967-6278 67ā€​

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$25.

So if these work will know next time I'm at the shop and can rebuild the hand assemblies and start getting it all back together.
 
Two small updates. Dismantled the hand brake levers. They are done. the tube to route the line was rusted and dented. I found a piece of 1/2" steel I will try and make a new one with.

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Second update.

Small update. No work done yet. I called Kratzke Machining & Fabricating Company Monday and left a message. He called back Tuesday. I sent an email in about the parts with a picture from this thread. M101 Trailer Series: Brand New Brake Levers
Got my quote today of $155 each. PayPal'd $310 and they should ship today. I will update both threads when I get them in hand. I found a piece of 1/5 tube to see if it will work as a replacement to the piece rusted out and crushed on my brake backing plate.
 
Received them today. Canā€™t complain about anything. Great service and great communication. Looks to be an exact duplicate to me. My only concern is the fact that mine bent were the stick out from the frame. I might build a bolt on support brace. Now I need tub brackets and how it attaches to the frame and a front leg. I need to see if that other trailer for $300 I canā€™t spare right now is still available.

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Congratulations but more important what's up with F1 I spy?
 
baggednissan said:
Congratulations but more important what's up with F1 I spy?
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1951 flathead v8 3 on the tree. Very rusty. Belonged to my moms first cousin. Before he passed I asked to buy it but he gave it to me. When I was a kid and visited with my grandmother this truck was behind her brotherā€™s trailer down the street. I would go visit him and heā€™d give me an ice cream sandwich. Iā€™d play in it pretending to drive. Plan to restore it one day. Sorry for the log response but that truck is really special to me.
 
No man good story's always go good with the history of a truck I thought it was mine for a second;)
 
Before I left the shop I tried to get the other side done. Nope. Tube that guides the parking brake cable was crushed. So I pulled the parts axle apart and was able to get the cable out of it. Swapped the backing plates out and something is blocking the new cable from going in.

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frankenyoter said:
What a cool build. It was a pleasure to meet you and Iā€™m glad you can use my stuff to rebuild.

Stuff this age is disappearing rapidly and I am so happy to see you fighting to keep it alive!!!!
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Thanks for not scrapping it when I couldn't get up with you for so long. I enjoy bringing things back so far. Once I got it home and started looking it over I was glad I got it together. The brackets that hold the tub I fear could be hard to find. I'm sure I could come up with something but having parts and just need hardware is a whole lot easier.
 
@baggednissan Pictures from when I rescued it from my parents place in FL 2011.

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Back in my shop in Hartsville.

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When we got hom we found the motor locked up. Took the wind out my sails until I could get the money to do it right. We pulled the plugs and filled it with ATF. Now that I live in Camden, 30 min from my shop, I'm not starting on this until it's in the back yard. It will get a full restoration back to it's original green color.
 
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