Metal Garage pros vs cons?

awheelterd said:
Y'all big money folks can do what you want, but we slapped a $900, 2 ton window unit in my dad's shop and it walks the dog. 1200sqft, stick built, insulated ceiling, 13ft uninsulated walls, 2 insulated garage doors. The opening for the unit is framed up nice and hangs out the back where no one sees it. He put it up high so it distributes well across the area. He doesn't leave it on all the time either. If he's going to be piddling around in there, he'll walk down and turn it on 30mins earlier and it will be nice when hes ready to work. It has plenty of run time so it dehumidifiers well. To hell with spending 5g on a minisplit
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Mini split is only about $2k after rebates.
www.homedepot.com

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BIGWOODY said:
If you plan on insulation do it now if you can afford, batting seemed to be the best among my research. To make it look nice it needs to be put up as it's being built. It is however pricey. Skip the roll up doors and put for real, insulated, garage doors. I put in side mount lift motors on my garage doors so I would not have a third track hanging in the center, again pricey but worth doing if insulating. I have 3 ton mini split that will heat and cool without issue. I spent extra $$$ to avoid having mine look and feel like a big metal box in the back yard. So 1500sq',12' walls, floor coating, concrete, HVAC ,rear drive way, wired, plumbed turn key was in the 50k neighborhood. That was with me doing nothing but making phone calls to sub contractors. I only tell you the total expense because I couldn't get that answer out of anyone I asked before having it built.View attachment 422523View attachment 422524View attachment 422528
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Goals. Shooting for a 40x60 12’ walls.
 
awheelterd said:
Now get it installed.
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Mine was $2100 , came pre charged, I installed it. I priced out other options, this was by far the cheapest for heat and air. I can control it through my phone as it's hooked to wifi . I'm able to turn it on a couple of hours before I get home and it removes the humidity and drops the inside temp by 10-15 degrees in that time. Leave it on all the time and it'll keep it 73 on a 96 degree day. I run a large fan in the winter to circulate the heated air and not just have it collecting in the top.of the building.
 
Scott86MJ said:
Projector included? Nice mancave!
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130" drop down powered screen, dolby7.1 , 2 subs. It's the place to watch movies or sports.
jeepinmatt said:
24x60? Happy with the mini split it sounds like? I’m insulating my 1400sqft with 13ft walls next week and am contemplating what size mini split. I was considering a dual zone 3 ton, and it sounds like we have similar sized buildings.
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Yes, 1440 to be exact. I just used a single zone and put the inside unit in the center of the shop. I've never been disappointed by its performance or uncomfortable working out there. The building beside it is 30x40 and I'll be putting a 3ton dual zone mini split in when we finish the renovation of that building. I try to keep my toys climate controlled and dry. The other tip I can give is if you have a contract with a pest control company for your house, have them do your shop too. I don't have spiders and bugs all over the place.
 
BIGWOODY said:
I can control it through my phone as it's hooked to wifi . I'm able to turn it on a couple of hours before I get home and it removes the humidity and drops the inside temp by 10-15 degrees in that time.
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This is a huge reason I want one. 95% of the time, it will be set on 80 degrees in the summer just for dehumidification and 50 or something in the winter to be sure the pipes don’t freeze. But when I’m planning to go work, I wanna be able to click a button and have a cool shop in an hour or two. And have super high efficiency the rest of the time.
 
BIGWOODY said:
Yes, 1440 to be exact. I just used a single zone and put the inside unit in the center of the shop. I've never been disappointed by its performance or uncomfortable working out there. The building beside it is 30x40 and I'll be putting a 3ton dual zone mini split in when we finish the renovation of that building. I try to keep my toys climate controlled and dry. The other tip I can give is if you have a contract with a pest control company for your house, have them do your shop too. I don't have spiders and bugs all over the place.
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Yeah mine is 34x40, so the dual zone should help keep the air exchanged in the big volume of space. That’s a great idea on the pest control.
 
Just some numbers for everyone to mull over from my current build. Hopefully have it standing up within the month.

Building package - Builders discount pole barn. 40x50 w 40x12 lean to, 14ft eave. 2 - 12x12 & 1 - 10x10 insulated garage doors, not metal roll ups. 1 walk door. $30k

6" concrete w 2'x2'x2' footers under each 6x6. $12,500

Building erection $15k.

Right now I'm doing the foil backed bubble wrap and plan to do fiberglass in the ceiling when my money recovers lol. I quoted 2" closed cell Friday and nearly died. 14k from the same folks that did my house 5yrs ago 😳

I put in drains for a bathroom and a kitchen sink when doing concrete and will be doing my own electrical. I was able to get an ag permit so I don't have to have any inspections other than electrical, when I get around to it.
 
awheelterd said:
Just some numbers for everyone to mull over from my current build. Hopefully have it standing up within the month.

Building package - Builders discount pole barn. 40x50 w 40x12 lean to, 14ft eave. 2 - 12x12 & 1 - 10x10 insulated garage doors, not metal roll ups. 1 walk door. $30k

6" concrete w 2'x2'x2' footers under each 6x6. $12,500

Building erection $15k.

Right now I'm doing the foil backed bubble wrap and plan to do fiberglass in the ceiling when my money recovers lol. I quoted 2" closed cell Friday and nearly died. 14k from the same folks that did my house 5yrs ago 😳

I put in drains for a bathroom and a kitchen sink when doing concrete and will be doing my own electrical. I was able to get an ag permit so I don't have to have any inspections other than electrical, when I get around to it.
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As usual the erection is where things get expensive
 
awheelterd said:
Just some numbers for everyone to mull over from my current build. Hopefully have it standing up within the month.

Building package - Builders discount pole barn. 40x50 w 40x12 lean to, 14ft eave. 2 - 12x12 & 1 - 10x10 insulated garage doors, not metal roll ups. 1 walk door. $30k

6" concrete w 2'x2'x2' footers under each 6x6. $12,500

Building erection $15k.

Right now I'm doing the foil backed bubble wrap and plan to do fiberglass in the ceiling when my money recovers lol. I quoted 2" closed cell Friday and nearly died. 14k from the same folks that did my house 5yrs ago 😳

I put in drains for a bathroom and a kitchen sink when doing concrete and will be doing my own electrical. I was able to get an ag permit so I don't have to have any inspections other than electrical, when I get around to it.
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And when you get that inspection…you have a Panel 4 lights and 1 outlet.

Then post inspection…party on Garth
 
I went with a custom metal garage and couldn’t be happier—insulated it myself and added gutters to help with runoff. What helped a lot was working with murraysteelbuildings.com. They were easy to talk to, adjusted plans fast, and everything showed up as expected. I did the site prep and concrete separately to save some cash. Still holding up strong after a few storms.
 
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Relleuq said:
Mine sweats like crazy in the spring, even with vents. Ended up adding insulation and it helped a lot. If you’re in a humid area, definitely budget for that.
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How did you vent it? Pole barn or red iron? Insulation in the walls or ceiling? Fiberglass, spray foam, or foam board?
 
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