Mid-engine Honda Buggy Build, FJ-40 axles

I agree with the front dig part being cool and not overly needed, BUT with a welded center diff in the transaxle, that acting as his T-case, he'd want to be able to disconnect the front (and/or rear) somehow. Vs being in 4x4 locked/locked/locked all the time.

Being able to go from a welded/locked center diff that can't be disengaged, to even an open/unlocked axle diff will ease the driveline stress and make turning a lot easier..
 
I'll have a lockrite in the front, maybe in the rear as well, which should help turning some.

the front will have manual hubs too, so if I HAVE to unlock it I can. I've dealt with welded/welded in my tacoma without much problems, and it actually seems to turn better if I have it in 4x4 (i guess b/c the fronts are pulling and not sliding), but it is very minimal.

If anything, I will weld the rear, and maybe down the road sometime I might do an e-locker (or air locker) for it.
 
vanguard said:
My rig does front digs and while it's cool, I wouldn't go too far out of my way to put them in a trail rig. Most of the time I use mine it's just to make a turn in a more impressive way when I could have backed up if I wanted to. It's pretty hard to front dig uphill so if you slide sideways on an obstacle and you're hoping to straighten up again I'm betting you'll spin tires and that's about it.
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I agree. But if he's seriously thinking about comps, then the ability to do a front dig is almost a necessity. If not, then no worries.

:edit: But more levers always = more fun. :flipoff2:
 
Well, I might would want to do a comp at some time or another, but I doubt it'd be many this year. Rock races/4x4 cross seems like it would be more fun than a comp where you have to worry about points such as backing up, cones, etc.

I don't want to sink a ton of money in it right yet since I still have my Tacoma, but once it sells I'll be buying alot of stuff :)

Plus, I have about $1400 left before my Ford will be paid off, and thats my #1 priority (maybe next week that'll be paid for).

Engine parts and axles are the first things I'll buy/build. Once I have the engine back together and the axles, I'll start bending tube.
 
Many cars were cable-shifted.. adapt!
 
Rich said:
Many cars were cable-shifted.. adapt!
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Th 90-93 Accords were cable shifted. You should be able to fab a mount on the trans to attatch the cables and get the shifter and cables from the jY
 
I'm not sure if it would work or not but I thought of it while I was thinking of building something using the honda motor/ transaxle. You could possibly keep a normal shift pattern using cable shift and have a quarter circle that have a pin holding it in place to rotate around, and the cable attached to the outside curved edge causing it to make a 90degree turn
 
i don't see how you could adapt a cable shifter to twist that shifter rod...
 
Honda, Toyota, VW have all done it for years in various models.

One cable does the push pull, the other rotates the shaft, just like the the shifter does if it were inline.

Michael, if you play with your set up a bit, you'll get the shift pattern to work as it would in the original vehicle.
 
yep, pretty much all of the more common fwd vehicles that i can think of use cables. you should be able to find all the bracketry and cables easily from a junkyard. one cable controls going across the pattern and the other controls up/down.

if you're dead set on doing a solid linkage, just be aware of how you mount the engine/trans and the shifter assembly. any seperate movement between the two is going to make popping out of gear a regular occurance.
 
I'll probably end up eating my words on this linkage setup and going to a cable setup, but we'll see... If I can find a 5/16" heim with a good amount of travel, I think I'll be set for the shifter that mounts on the trans itself.

Anyways, on to the pikturs.

1st is the trans with shifter linkage. Seems to work very smoothly, I just need to either clearance the rod I made, or get a 5/16" heim that has more misalignment.
EDIT: I can see that a hi-misalignment 5/16" heim is impossible to find. I'll probably just mill out the piece I made a little wider and put some small spacers in there to let the heim travel a little more. I can change the heim to a 3/8" heim if need be. The little rod in the tranny is made from tool steel, cutting/drilling it SUCKED.

2nd is the aluminum links and Johnny Joints, I've also got 2 spare 6061 links (main links are 7075)

3rd is the driveshaft with Honda output welded on
 

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I made another awesome buy today. I got basically the whole brake/clutch system minus a few hoses, and the pedals. Paid $150 for all this, talk about BLING! I figure all of this would add up to over $800 new. I was watching EBAY for Wilwood stuff, and a 2-pedal mount with 3 MC's went for $220, and that was plastic MC's.

Not sure if I will be able to use this style of balance bar, but if not I'll get a different one and sell this one. The resevoir is sweet, all 3 resevoirs in one unit.
 

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Im know this has been discussed and proven but how the hell can a honda transmision hold up to 37's, i guess the minimal power from the motor helps, but i htink if your spinning the 37' fast and then they hook up when it hits the tranny it will give up. this is definetly a cool build though. i like the minimal wiegth aspectand that fact that are using japaneese stuff my favorite.
 
Looks good. I saw someone looking at your yota on my way home from work today.
 
hopefully youll have it done by uwharriecross....im def interested in seein this build......not many people would go through with all the fab involved in this......how are you doin a transfer case on this?
 
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