My 93 nissan pathfinder build up

sharksanddanger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Location
Reidsville
Well I decided after my 3rd rearend it was time for a change. I decided I wanted something a little bit better and wider and a tad bit lower..
Here was my plan:
- Old rear axle taken out, 4-link rebuilt to a double triangulated 4-link with no panhard, all 1 1/4" heims threaded into some 2" .250 wall DOM tubing. Axle moved back about 2"s more with coils retained on bottom. Also outboard the coils about 5"s on each side to try to help with stability.
- Front axle swapped out, extend the radius arms to push the axle a little father forward, maybe 1.5"s or so. I may also have to move my steering box forward or swap it out for something else but I won't know that for sure until the axle is under there..
Here is my parts list:
Rear Axle- 14bt FF with 5.38s/detroit/disks trussed and set up for DT 4-link(I know you are thinking why 5.38s if already troubles with rear ends but have read lots of people with no problems so I figured I'd give it a try)
Front Axle- HP HD 44 8 lug with 5.38s/welded/ chromollys/ warn external hubs.
Tires- 39.5x13.50-17 Iroks mounted on 17" H2 wheels
A bunch of brackets from PP and Ballistic and some 1 1/4" heims.
Anyways, onto the pictures.
Old axle taken out with poorly designed 4-link
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It was a HUGE PITA to grind off all the old brackets, spent two damn days doing that until I purchased a torch since the plasma wasn't cutting it, literally. Had to cut a whole bunch of tuff where the gas lines were and that was no fun.
Here is my little axle truss.. Bent it out of 1/2"x 4 flat stock and cut the ends to slide over the 14bt.
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Here is a shot of the axle under the truck with only the coils mounted.. I had them retained top and bottom but I will be not retaining them at the top.
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You can see how much I outboarded them in this picture
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You can see that I gained a good bit of width even with these wheels having 5.75" backspacing..
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Here is just testing it out on the forklift to make sure there is no binding etc.
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Thats about all I have right now... I sit about 1" lower but with 39.5" tires.. That may change once I get the coilovers mounted up. More pictures to follow..
 
Looks awsome Richard, I've been waiting to see pics of what Brians been teeling me about your build. Can't wait to see the front when its done.
 
Sweet, Richard. It looks awesome!! How bout' making me one of those truss's.



Dave
 
new name for you "sparksandanger"

Very good lookin fab work
 
looks great man!!!!!!
 
That's not a bad looking 4-link you got there!

Was the travel maxxed out in the pics???

Just a curiosity here, what material did you use for the link mounts on top of the chunk? Looks a little beaner compared to that monster truss!
 
That's not a bad looking 4-link you got there!

Was the travel maxxed out in the pics???

Just a curiosity here, what material did you use for the link mounts on top of the chunk? Looks a little beaner compared to that monster truss!


It is a shop I work at, they allow me to work on my junk when we are not slammed for the space..

Michael, will do.. I'll try and find somewhere this week.

Thanks Jeff, Matt, Jimmy, Dave for the compliments.

Travel was not maxxed out at all just with the coils retained on the top that was all it could do. I used some 3x3x3/16"s, not as beefy as the truss but I have boxed those mounts in now. Most all the bracketry on the axle is 3/16s but each mount is boxed in. I think it will be alright, at least I hope so.

Here are a few pictures of progress from last night, took the rear driveshaft to the shop today to get lengthened..

A couple shots of the rear done with shocks, brake lines and painted with my sweet great lakes cover..

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I took the top retainer out of the spring and replaced it with these things to just center and hold the spring where it is..

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Just a suggestion, but I would tie in that truss to either the diff cover bolts or the pinion snout bolts...

Looks good though!
 
i was thinking the same thing.

it's not for twisting the tubes, but for the forces/leverage the links will be putting on the truss.
 
Just curious, but why? I don't think my little v6 will have the power to twist hte tubes..

Gear reduction is an amazing thing..

But like Ivan said, you've got quite a bit of force going into an otherwise unsupported span, and not a huge amount of weld area.

Just my $.02, take it for what it's worth...
 
Gear reduction is an amazing thing..
But like Ivan said, you've got quite a bit of force going into an otherwise unsupported span, and not a huge amount of weld area.
Just my $.02, take it for what it's worth...


I definately appreciate the criticism being that I have not done many of these. Since it is painted Im going to run it at URE this weekend(hopefully) then come back and gusset it. I did weld stack passes on each side, its not just single pass.


This thing is wide! I'll find out tomorrow how high its going to sit..

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Man that would be awsome if you showed up this weekend, it'll be my first time out after my build. Should be alot of people from what I hear
 
You need to change the signature to Nissan on 39.5's :)


I do indeed.. I also need to swap out my master cylinder for something larger.. Brakes are super SOFT! It also sits too high in the front so I am going to get some softer springs for hte bottom to lower it down a tad...

I definately need to upgrade the master cylinder.. Brakes are SOFT!

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Instead of using a softer spring on your primary and reducing your combined (& main) spring rate, try the next shorter size spring for the secondary.. That will also allow you to crank down on the prelaod ring, reducing your need for tenders.

Or at the very least, go down in rate on the secondary, not the primary.
 
I have access to a pair of 300# 14", if the guy has not sold them.

Dave
 
Thats looking awesome man, but it looks like you will have some bad flex steer. Oh well... if you're flexed that much, you won't be going fast and it should be able to handle fine. Post up pics of how it does when you're running coil retainers.
 
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