My TJ build

Well got to work this weekend and finished one project ... Fenders are all done and now so is the hood. After waiting to get all the parts to complete it they arrived yesterday.

Started with the Hood and installed the poison spyder louver kit first with painting under it to ensure no rusting of the hood around were the cuts were made.
Once i got the hood setup I cut the hood 3" all the way around the outside bottom. To anyone who does this I would recommend you do 3" front to back then make a 12" long slant at the rear going from were your first cut was to about 3/8 of an inch on the very back of the hood. I ended up very happy with my fitment. I then painted the inside edge and outside edge a few inches up to ensure no rusting down the road and make it look clean. I finished it off with automotive door edge guard all along the bottom to give a smooth lip that wouldnt scratch up anything or cut your hands. I also used a dremel with a sanding attachment to smooth all sharp edges and remove any slivers of metal.

I then got Polyperformance hood pins and cut the underside of the hood in a square pattern thru the hoods secondary layer to gain access to the top and drilled my holes and installed them. I also drilled 2x 5/8 inch holes in the grill in order to mount the two pins. I was happy with the install except that the hardware seemed to pull thru the rubber grommet very easy. Being anal and wanting to ensure the rubber stayed flat to keep out moisture i ended up using a washer between the rubber grommet and the allen bolt head on every one. Made all my adjustments and test drove it down the highway will less hood bounce then a factory one.

All in all my only major project for the jeep is completed.

Ordered my Currie Anti rock sway bar this week and that is next weeks project !
 

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MallRated said:
Started with the Hood and installed the poison spyder louver kit first with painting under it to ensure no rusting of the hood around were the cuts were made.
Once i got the hood setup I cut the hood 3" all the way around the outside bottom. To anyone who does this I would recommend you do 3" front to back then make a 12" long slant at the rear going from were your first cut was to about 3/8 of an inch on the very back of the hood. I ended up very happy with my fitment. I then painted the inside edge and outside edge a few inches up to ensure no rusting down the road and make it look clean. I finished it off with automotive door edge guard all along the bottom to give a smooth lip that wouldnt scratch up anything or cut your hands. I also used a dremel with a sanding attachment to smooth all sharp edges and remove any slivers of metal.
Click to expand...
Remind me to have you install mine whenever I get one, talk about going the extra mile:gitrdun:
 
Well after a long weekend, then another weekend finishing the touches and putting my currie anti rock in and refitting my fenders. The motor is in and driving. Pictures added for your viewing pleasure.

I cut the end link rods for the anti rock but due to the mounts on my D44 i need even shorter ones. Gotta do some research and see if maybe i can just find a threaded 4" rod to use instead. But its all mounted and driving !
 

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Well went thru hell and high water to find what i needed in the length i needed. Titan Performance Chassis parts are sold thru a Offroad custom suspension company i found online and got some ordered and they were super awesome about sending them out quick.

Got them today and mounted them up and they work perfectly for my application so my anti rock is finally sitting level !
Now just awaiting the factory hardware i was missing from Currie (They are top notch with customer service !)
Then cutting the front bumper for better clearance this weekend !
 

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Have you cycled the suspension with those shorter links installed? More important than the antirock arms sitting level is making sure they don't invert on down travel. The shorter links make it easier to do, and you'll have a real problem if it happens.
 
jankoid said:
Have you cycled the suspension with those shorter links installed? More important than the antirock arms sitting level is making sure they don't invert on down travel. The shorter links make it easier to do, and you'll have a real problem if it happens.
Click to expand...

I have yet to do it but i did read about that. How would you recommend going about that. Cycling one side at a time i would assume ?

I am in the process of getting stuff for the next stage but with my new job change to get out of working on cars I have taken a pay cut so doing so slowly. I purchased spring retainers for the front and rear and by winter pulling out the 2 inch spacers. Losing the spacers I did have some questions if you @CasterTroy or anyone else has some advice....

1) once removing the spacers I know I will need to adjust all my my suspension control arms (long arms) as well as my track bars front and rear.
But when this is done (4.5 inch coils) will i need to cut the rear tub (mod cut) or otherwise to clear 37's ?
2) As noted I will be installing spring retainers front and rear to make sure while flexing that if it gets too far that the spring will not move outward. That all being said The shocks installed on it will probably allow the axle to travel within an amount that the springs will have quite a gap. As this is my first "longer travel" jeep do people tend to get away with just retainers and use the bump stops as a spring guide per say or should I look into doing something like a shorter shock or limit straps ?

I have a lot of mechanical knowledge but have never ventured down these roads and appreciate all the input thus far and what ever insight can be added.
 
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As far as the short adjustment to make them even be aware my G2 dana44 have the high steer brackets welded onto it to clear up and over the 1ton steering kit the previous owner put on.

It is similar to this picture :
 

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Went out this weekend for some shake down time. Learned alot of things that need to be done.

I need a larger brake booster / master as when locked i have little to no control of brakes when lockers are on.
I need to move back the rear axle (as much as my stock long arms will allow)
I need to get an electric fan setup completed.
I need to get a digital tire pressure gauge as all four of mine read differently.
I brought way to much shit i can leave half of it at home and pack twice as many pairs of boxers wheeling with the big dogs !

Anyone done a booster / master upgrade on the TJ ?
Anyone on here done their own and willing to help stretch my TJ and comp cut it this winter ?
 
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What exactly do you mean with your brake issue? I've ran/run much larger tires than that locked on both ends with stock disc setup.

I would strongly advise against an electric fan setup. A well maintained TJ cooling system should keep it under 210 all day and only get warm after sustained rev limiter or high throttle wheeling.

If you're interested in a stretch shoot me a pm and we can talk. Actually have @BigClay TJ in my shop now stretching it.
 
^Is right about the brakes.

Also, I never had any issues with the stock fan and radiator. Once I did the 4.6 stroker, it was impossible to keep cool with the stock fan and aftermarket dual core radiator. Upgraded to an aluminum radiator and a Taurus fan and it never gets over 180. If you have an aftermarket radiator, I think the stocker actually provides more cooling capability.
 
The brake issue is the Jeep came stock with drums. It has g2 dana 44's under it now and its like the booster or the slave can supply enough force to hold them when in drive. If i put it to neutral the brakes instantly grab 100%. I have talked to a few people with tj's and xj's that have said the same about theirs.
From what i read some people put dual diaphragm boosters and ram 3500 van masters in and the problem is fixed.

@Chris_Keziah I will keep you in mind for the stretch for sure. I am assistant manager of the dealership i used to be a mechanic at and unfortunately our business has slowed which means my checks are reflecting that. Once the money turns around i will deff reach out to you !
 
MallRated said:
The brake issue is the Jeep came stock with drums. It has g2 dana 44's under it now and its like the booster or the slave can supply enough force to hold them when in drive. If i put it to neutral the brakes instantly grab 100%. I have talked to a few people with tj's and xj's that have said the same about theirs.
From what i read some people put dual diaphragm boosters and ram 3500 van masters in and the problem is fixed.

@Chris_Keziah I will keep you in mind for the stretch for sure. I am assistant manager of the dealership i used to be a mechanic at and unfortunately our business has slowed which means my checks are reflecting that. Once the money turns around i will deff reach out to you !
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You remove the o ring in the prop valve? Assuming the G2's are disc in the rear. Only time I've ever heard of brake issues out of a TJ is with a rubi case. Wouldn't hurt to check the booster. Doubt it would have failed in a manner that doesn't cause a vacuum leak but there's also a chance it's not getting vacuum but you'd be able to tell just from pedal feel with the engine on and off.
 
The proportioning valve is the same between the disc rear and drum rear Jeeps. The rear discs don't have any more stopping power that I can tell, but they're definitely easier to modulate.

Agreed on the low t-case gears (3.8 or lower). That's really a problem of the torque converter more than the brakes. If the brakes aren't working well, I'd look at the condition of the pads and rotors. If the rotors are questionable, replace them with a good quality OEM style part. Don't put any slotted/cross drilled/etc bullshit on there. It's a Jeep, not a roundyround car.
 
it already has upgraded pads and rotors on it. I have not removed the o-ring in the prop valve... I will have to check into that. The g2s are disc in the rear.
 
MallRated said:
it already has upgraded pads and rotors on it
Click to expand...
Define "upgraded" - don't rule that out as part of the problem. Have you put it up on jack stands and done any troubleshooting to see if you're getting good braking at all four corners? Tried any hard stops from speed to confirm the front/rear bias is correct? I wouldn't fuck with the proportioning valve - you're more likely to end up with too much rear brake and end up swapping ends at speed. Eh, fuck it. Maybe it's worth experimenting, just be careful.

What gears are in the t-case? You said it's only an issue when the lockers are engaged. That doesn't make much sense on its own - normally, these sorts of issues are tied to low range, not to lockers.
 
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ok, to be exact in 4wd (seems less control with lockers) I dont like the idea of messing with the prop valve. If thats what is needed i would put an adjustable valve in so i could dial the bias.
Upgraded meaning (I believe hawk pads and rotors, was done by previous owner before he sold it )
 
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