Need advice on modifying plow

[Nissan11]

This is a rehab plow. It's job is to go in behind a plow that was used to put out a fire and smooth the two big berms out by throwing them back into the ditch the first plow made. This works well but it is about 12-14" too narrow on each side. As you can see from this pic, the outside disk does not reach the outside of the berm.














The company that made this plow went out of business 20 years ago so I am unable to consult with them. The IDEAL setup would be to be able to use the single furthermost rear cylinder to extend both disk gangs so that the width can be adjusted for going inbetween trees, but I just don't see how it is possible to accomplish that. I can not add a third cylinder because our dozers only have 4 hydraulic ports and two levers. That rear cylinder is currently used to adjust the angle of the disks, which I really don't need because the angle they are currently at is the only angle I use for plowing.



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So, my idea is to cut the two mount plates per side that the pivot pin runs through and shorten them. If I do that I can simply move them 12" to the outside and weld them back in. If I do that, I will have to cut another hole in the rear frame rail for the bolt mounted on that rail.



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If I am able to do all of that, I can weld an extension to the end of the gang frame, cut off the old tube and weld it back on to the 12" extension which would allow me to still control the angle. I would also be able to use the exisiting heim joints and arm.



Does anyone have any better ideas for making this disk a total of 2' wider? This is very thick material as well. If my plastma cutter can not cut it then I can not do it. I really dont want to butcher it up with the oxy/acetylene.

 

[Nissan11]

 

[Ron]

on phone so pics are small...can you extend the axle and add 1 disc per sidea and call it a day

 

[Nissan11]

on phone so pics are small...can you extend the axle and add 1 disc per sidea and call it a day

I do not think I can get parts for this disk anymore. If I were to somehow extend each axle and add a disk it would be weak since there would not be a brace going inbetween the outside two disks. I would also need bearings, clamps, etc and it would be difficult to locate all of those parts

 

[Nissan11]

What if I do this: I cut the inside brace/arm off and move it to the outside. If I do that then I can move the axles out one row. The only thing I dont like is that the two arms are coming down at different angles. Also, after looking again, see how the arms are welded to the frame. The frame is notched to accept a square piece of tube which is welded in. I do not think I can cut any of those arms off because of how they are welded to the rail.

If I go with that idea, I would probably have to build a new arm from scratch and steal the bearing and carrier off the inside arm which would not be used.

 

[Reid]

thats a lot of work.

why not just split the frame in the center, weld in 4x4 box steel (or what ever size the frame is) to exend the rig to the desired width?

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

I would source the material and disc and extend the frame and axle. No sense in doing all that cutting and rework, plus the vent will have a larger unworked gap. I bet if you paid labor for all that cutting fitting and grinding you could buy components. In my shop that is what I would suggest. I would bet the labor difference would justify the parts. And it wouldn't be a hack job.

 

[Nissan11]

I really don't think getting a longer axle with more disks is feasible. The rehab plow industry is small and I highly doubt any other companies would have carriers and axles to work with this plow.


I like the idea of cutting the frame and extending but I could not cut it right down the center since thats where the cylinder and a heavy frame rail is. I would have to cut it on each side, as well as the pivoting tube that the cylinder attaches to.

 

[Nissan11]

 

[Nissan11]

These are the locations I think I would have to cut and put extensions in due to that huge rail in the center of the frame under the cylinder.

 

[Nissan11]

I can not cut that round tube where I want to. There is a 2.5" solid pin running through that tube. Now I am back to welding on an extension to the inside of the axle frames as well as another round piece of tube for the heim arm to mount to.

 

[rockcity]

Just cut the cylinder brackets off of the frame, make necessary frame mods, and reinstall the cylinder mounts.

 

[rockcity]

And, I agree that extending the frame and gettin a new axle and bearing would likely be the easiest.


My guess is that the axle is a standard keyed shaft, which is easy to source. For the added bearing, it doesn't have to be the same, you can use what is readily available. Hell, a simple wood or brass bearing would likely be sufficient for the application.

Something like this would be just fine I imagine.

 

[Nissan11]

Cutting the cylinder mount off is the easy part. What do I do with the huge part of the frame running up the center of the plow under the cylinder? It would not be fun cutting that off the back of the plow. Also, the mounts for the pivot tube at the front of the cylinder would have to be cut off and welded on to the new extension if I cut the frame up the middle.

 

[rockcity]

Or just source a single disc and bracket and bolt on to the outside of your existing frame and leave the rest as-is.

Like one of these.

 

[Nissan11]

 

[Nissan11]

Or just source a single disc and bracket and bolt on to the outside of your existing frame and leave the rest as-is.

Like one of these.

View attachment 204221

Thats a damn idea right there

 

[jeepinmatt]

Hester Plows and Equipment Replacement Parts
"Hester Plow went out of busniess in the late 90's, but ER Tillage purchased the plans for many of the Hester machines. The equipment, primarily the fireline plows and the disc harrows, consisted mostly of lift and wheel type harrows using 1-1/8" square and 1-1/2" Square axles.

ER Tillage offers replacement parts for most Hester Plow equipment. Don't have a part number? No problem! Our experts have over 40 years of Rome Plow equipment experience, so we can answer any question."

 

[Nissan11]

Thanks!

I just located this donor plow that I think I can get everything I need off of.

 

[BigBody79]

I've found that with the thicker metals my oxy/acetylene will cut is just fine. Just have to have the right tip and right pressure and it cuts good. I've had a much harder time on thinner metals 3/16th and smaller.

And as backwards as it sounds I've found that sometimes a good ole cutting disc is the best answer. Even on stuff up to 1/4" thick.

I think that the diagram below is one of your options. I do believe that you should do this. You will need to retain the pivot piece of the whole thing. (Or you could make it manual) I really think that this will be your best bet.

 

[Nissan11]

If I move that I have to do something with the linkage and mounts as well. That's a LOT of work.

 

[BigBody79]

Ok, another idea here. If you are happy with the angle and have no need need to move it. Just unbolt the disc angle linkage and remove the pivot. Then weld the "disc holding bar" directly to the frame and the same angle. just further out.

 

[Nissan11]

If I do that the space between the inside disks will be too wide.

 

[Nissan11]

Got started today.

 

[BigBody79]

I'm curious to see how you do this.