Project Sh*tShow

don’t even fool with those, grab you some of these. The reverse lights are insanely bright.

LED Tail Light Kit - 4" Round Hi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072SNG9M3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

They were free.

I'm not worried about them for reverse.... J got this big boy that I was putting in the tailgate
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After some looking around it seems like all the body armor is setup for the 4" round lights. So round round it is. Thank you for the suggestion they are a fair price.

I have these in my TJ, very happy with them. I have 4” round in my YJ but they do not have reverse lights, so I’d like to switch to these. However, my tub is so smashed I fear if I remove a light, I’ll NEVER get one back in it.
 
Now that I shifted the engine back I need to remake the trans mount.

My question is do I need a bushing at the trans adapter or are the ones at the crossmember okay? 2 bushings vs 3. Everything is poly leaf spring style
 
@Monkeynono With my SM420, I have two bushings on the crossmember and then a hard mount at the transmission case. I've seen where others have done a hard mount on the frame and then a poly bushing at the trans case. I think either style will work, you just don't all hard connections.

Keep up the good work, I had an 87 YJ in highschool/college but it wasn't quite as built as yours:beer:
 
I think the correct way to do it is at least have a poly or rubber mount at the trans. Your cast iron case may take more abuse, but my AX15 broke off mounting ears by only having the bushings at the frame.

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Sitting under the pos making a new trans mount got me looking at this Np205.

I was gonna clock and twin stick it...... but should I just leave it alone and save up for an Atlas?
 
Got the sliders fully welded, new trans mount done and made a circle jig for the plasmas cutter.
I know the trans and transfer case hang down a lot ( beer belly not flat belly) I need to clock the case and make a new crossmember eventually.
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I was staring at the Heep last night and decided I want to move the front axle forward 1" on the springs. Any reasons no to drill and move it? Any tips for drilling cast iron?
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You should just move the axle up where the center pin lands in that forward most hole. That should be close to an inch and be a lot easier.
 
Looks like your rear leaf eye is going to bottom out on the slider box when the leaf spring compresses. Did you check that clearance?


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Looks like your rear leaf eye is going to bottom out on the slider box when the leaf spring compresses. Did you check that clearance?


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After that picture I cut the whole front open. For it to hit now the spring would be in a serious negative arch.
 
After that picture I cut the whole front open. For it to hit now the spring would be in a serious negative arch.

The spring is the longest when it is completely flat, so if it doesnt bottom before then, you are golden. To get the most travel out of a slider, you want to set it up, so it is just shy of bottoming when the spring is flat, that way you can get the most down travel out of the leafs.
 
The spring is the longest when it is completely flat, so if it doesnt bottom before then, you are golden. To get the most travel out of a slider, you want to set it up, so it is just shy of bottoming when the spring is flat, that way you can get the most down travel out of the leafs.
The spring is 46 eye to eye along it length, the back of the slot (max distance) I set at 47 so it has an inch of extra space
 
Any recommendations for a rear truss? I'am thinking of adding one to use as part of the mount for an anti-wrap bar. Also, I have no way to weld the tubes to the housing and hope a truss would make that unnecessary?
 
Any recommendations for a rear truss? I'am thinking of adding one to use as part of the mount for an anti-wrap bar. Also, I have no way to weld the tubes to the housing and hope a truss would make that unnecessary?


I bought this one about 12 yrs ago when I thought I was going to link the 14 bolt under my old cab truck. It is still on the axle (not welded yet), and I plan to use it as a base for my traction bar. I'm planning on building off the side of the pinion guard as the lower mount for the traction bar. The upper mount will obviously just be on top of the truss.

14 Bolt Axle Truss Trail Version

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Not much getting done, waiting on parts and good weather. Lots of wiring to be done but for some reason doing the harness gives me anxiety.

I did get the fuel tank cleaned out and the new pump installed along with finishing the fuel lines and filter.

Question for the V8 sbc YJ guys.... What radiator are you using?
 
The Motobuilt comp rear fenders an boatside showed up. Mocked up the DS just to get an idea how the fit. PS is a bit more complicated because of my filler neck location.
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