New Garage: advise on door size

88jeepster

Jesus, Jannette & Jeeps for Life!
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Feb 16, 2012
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Boone, NC
hey guys. i'm getting ready to pour my slab and then frame my new 20x32 garage. So, I was wanting some experienced advise on the door. I would like to go with a 14'x9' door for more room and probably frame it and plywood it myself but anyone know the cons of such a big door and if possible, what kind of extra supports do I need to have done. I figured a 2x12 header and double jacks at the least but would the door be too heavy. and also planning on non-motorized, just spring loaded I guess. Any advise would be great from the pros. thank you.
 
the swing open sounds good, I was thinking that route. so i would do 2 7foot halves that open out, right. thanks for the input
 
My next shop will either be big enough that the door won't effect the lifts or it'll be roll up. I will say it hasn't been to bad and we've not had any accidents with the door and back windows but our lift is installed pretty far forward.
 
I'm building an 18' wide by 11' tall sliding (rolling:))door on my shop. It probably won't be big enough, but neither is the shop.
 
Edited: (2) 2x12s can't span 14'. You're looking at (4) 2x12s or LVLs, depending on which wall the door is on and how it's framed... 4 kings on each end and 2-3 jacks. That's all just to support the ceiling/roof framing above, nothing to do with the type of door.
 
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Edited: (2) 2x12s can't span 14'. You're looking at (4) 2x12s or LVLs, depending on which wall the door is on... 4 kings on each end and 2-3 jacks.

I was about to type the same thing.
A door that size constructed of wood will be pretty heavy. I'd frame the garage for a readily available size of metal roll up door or sectioned garage door.
 
x2 on a metal roll up door. Not the typical house style garage door though. That will get in the way and block the lights that are above it.
 
A 10x10 would work just as well. If it won't fit in that size door then it doesn't need to go inside!
 
Edited: (2) 2x12s can't span 14'. You're looking at (4) 2x12s or LVLs, depending on which wall the door is on and how it's framed... 4 kings on each end and 2-3 jacks. That's all just to support the ceiling/roof framing above, nothing to do with the type of door.

I don't mean to be an ass but this sounds like a fairly decent sized construction project (as noted above). I'd assume that you are familiar with the codes to dictate this kind of thing... or have a contractor who does... since that would be required for the permit anyway...
 
I just finished a 32'x32' shop. I put an 18'x9' door on mine. It's a standard insulated garage door from Superior. Also have an 18' wide door on the garage on my house. A 14' wide door is going to be tight for 2 vehicles.
 
I don't mean to be an ass but this sounds like a fairly decent sized construction project (as noted above). I'd assume that you are familiar with the codes to dictate this kind of thing... or have a contractor who does... since that would be required for the permit anyway...

You'd think... but reading the below a couple of times, I wasn't so certain...

i'm getting ready to pour my slab and then frame my new 20x32 garage. So, I was wanting some experienced advise on the door. I would like to go with a 14'x9' door for more room and probably frame it and plywood it myself but anyone know the cons of such a big door and if possible, what kind of extra supports do I need to have done. I figured a 2x12 header and double jacks at the least but would the door be too heavy. and also planning on non-motorized, just spring loaded I guess. Any advise would be great from the pros. thank you.

I can say, for certain, that a 14'-16' long 2x12 will sag under it's own weight.

Also, I don't know the permit requirements or what code enforcement is like in Boone/Watauga/Fukyall County.
 
Also, I don't know the permit requirements or what code enforcement is like in Boone/Watauga/Fukyall County.


Its like Clinton's military and mistress policy: Don't ask; Don't tell.
 
I do commercial overhead doors and dock equipment for a living. If you want a standard sectional (garage type) door, you can get as much high lift as you want (door goes up x-ft before it goes horizontal). The benefit of a high lift door is that the more high lift you have, the less horizontal track extends from the opening. This is only feasible if you have headroom. The other option would be a rolling door. You can get anything from a one piece mini storage type door to a insulated powdercoated rolling door with a jack shaft operator. A rolling door would be ideal but the cost is a bit different than the sectional door. If you need some more info shoot me a PM
 
well, thanks for the options and suggestions. sounds like roll up or barn doors is the way to go. thanks for the input.
 
This pretty much sums it up. Permits aren't an issue here.

Until an inspector happens to ride down the road and see a project going on. In Cleveland County, if you get caught building without a permit, the fine is 2x the permit price. Then you will still have to deal with the inspector to pass everything. Im sure it wont be as easy afterwards. The inspector could fail it and make you tear it all down.

IMO, its not worth not pulling a permit. Some counties have started using google maps to look for pools and buildings installed without a permit. Someone I know works at the Cleveland County tax assessor's office.
 
Got gravel in yesterday, leveled out and pulled strings. Concrete coming Monday...woo hoo!! can't believe how much concrete costs.
 
I got the health department inspector passed already. don't I get the building permit once i'm ready to actually start building it which will be a little while until I get all the funds for all the materials.
 
I assume you are doing a monolithic slab? If you are trying to cheat the code system you would be much better off starting with a pole barn then finishing after the final inspection.


Edited: (2) 2x12s can't span 14'. You're looking at (4) 2x12s or LVLs, depending on which wall the door is on and how it's framed... 4 kings on each end and 2-3 jacks. That's all just to support the ceiling/roof framing above, nothing to do with the type of door.


Wow, I'm turned on a little!
 
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