OX lockers

BigClay

BigClay

Knower of useless ZJ things
Joined
Sep 24, 2008
Location
Winston-Salem
Does anyone have any experience with OX lockers? They have an air actuated version and a manual version, any opinions on either? Pros and cons to both? For discussion sake, I am thinking about the pros and cons to one in a front axle.
 
They use to be pretty popular with the bronco crowd. The biggest issue reported was you had to adjust the engagement cable kinda often due to the cable stretching. But other than that no really issues that I heard.
 
I will look Eaton. I am getting tired of not being able to turn with the Aussie in the front when in 4wd
 
I'm an ARB fan boy, however if my compressor ever failed I ruin a weekend. An elocker can be straight wired in a matter of minutes if the wires get cut and you power supply is constant unlike air. My only issue with an OX is the it vulnerable point is half way up the cover and I drive by braille half the time.
 
I used to have a cable version on a d44 frt. I was always having problems. Could have just been me. I finally destroyed the locking side gear at callante back in like 09-10 (yes, I used to actually wheel). Thats when I ditched the 8 lug 44 and went 60. Another thing to consider is the actuator will be a tight fit on a dsd axle and a rock target on anything.

I think I still have the side gear. Ill snap some pics tonight
 
@Chris_Keziah is offering a great rate fro club memeberz with a Hydro Assist setup....

I have no problems turning with my lunchbox locker, however my wheelbase is not as short so it doesn’t “push” like my TJ did.

I would much prefer the electric over cable. I remeber Randy Yoder having to fumble with his Ox cable locker and sometimes have to be rolling a little for it to engage.
Also, do you want to route a cable and mount the push/pull, or run one wire and mount a switch?
 
I've installed hundreds of them over the years without any issues. What I really like about them is if you lose an air line or have a cable issue, you can simply install the included plunger in the diff cover to lock the axle while you're still wheeling. Remove for the drive home.
On the other hand, the air fittings or cable will be somewhat succeptable to trail damage since the air fittings come out of the diff cover instead of out of the top of the housing like an ARB.
On the other, other hand, they are easier for the amateur to install than an ARB. Since there isn't a seal housing and associated shims to deal with like an ARB, you don't need a housing spreader to install one.
 
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Chris_Keziah said:
I'm an ARB fan boy, however if my compressor ever failed I ruin a weekend.
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Nah, just shoot them with ~80psi and leave them locked in. You can use any source of air, including the OBA on your tow rig.
 
shawn said:
Nah, just shoot them with ~80psi and leave them locked in. You can use any source of air, including the OBA on your tow rig.
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I don't have the stuff with me to do that yet, I plan to soon to just carry a spare line with a schrader valve hooked to the end so I can engage it that way.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
I don't have the stuff with me to do that yet, I plan to soon to just carry a spare line with a schrader valve hooked to the end so I can engage it that way.
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Just feed 80psi into the solenoid.

Or fuck the solenoid and install an air switch in the dash.
 
My front OX is holding up for my 3-4 wheelin trips a year the past 5 years. If it's been a while since using it, a lot of time adjusting the cable is necessary, but for me that has always been just tightening or loosening the shifter knob to pull the cable in or let it out.

ox.JPG
Knock on wood, I've not ever snagged or smashed it hard enough to do any damage. I run the cable up thru the truss so it's just that little bit where it meets the diff.
 
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Not sure what went wrong, it just came unlocked on... was it armour all? It was a ledge on the welder trail near the end before you got to that steep rock garden, pull cable i think it was called.
 
I’ve not had any issues with mine once I got it tuned in just right. Mines in the rear and I carry one of those lock tools just in case. If I was buying from scratch, Eaton e locker would be my choice. When I grenaded my lock right, i put in a e locker up front.
 
Been some time since I priced any lockers, but it seemed to me, the Ox, cost the most. They advertise a price, but it doesn't include the front/rear cover & cable, which is a Must! I see know they offer options on engagement. I also felt like the front cover & cable connection, would be subject to rock damage. I went with the E-locker, which I think was basically $1000. After about 4 years, it quite working, on a Uwharrie ride. Turns out the wire pins in the connector, pulled apart. No known reason! If it happens again, I'll cut the connector out, & straight wire it with some duct tape.:lol:
 
If I was starting fresh and dropping a grand on something, that Auburn ECTED limited slip/e locker looks interesting. Does anyone have experience with those or their reputation so far? Does the added complexity create higher risk of something going wrong?
 
paulevans76 said:
If I was starting fresh and dropping a grand on something, that Auburn ECTED limited slip/e locker looks interesting. Does anyone have experience with those or their reputation so far? Does the added complexity create higher risk of something going wrong?
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To me it seems like the perfect option, but they have been out for a long time and there's not much info on them. Of the scattered info, there is more bad than good.
 
paulevans76 said:
If I was starting fresh and dropping a grand on something, that Auburn ECTED limited slip/e locker looks interesting. Does anyone have experience with those or their reputation so far? Does the added complexity create higher risk of something going wrong?
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I researched them years ago, they had very bad reviews. Most people also said they had horrible customer service.
 
paulevans76 said:
If I was starting fresh and dropping a grand on something, that Auburn ECTED limited slip/e locker looks interesting. Does anyone have experience with those or their reputation so far? Does the added complexity create higher risk of something going wrong?
Click to expand...

Eaton E locker FTW (if you're desiring an electronic unit). It's a really nice piece that holds up really well
 
Do the Eaton E-lockers still come with a tire size limitation/stipulation?
Several folks I know had them in the early days, had lots of issues, and were denied warrant claims due to larger than 35"...
 
jeepinmatt said:
To me it seems like the perfect option, but they have been out for a long time and there's not much info on them. Of the scattered info, there is more bad than good.
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My understanding is, the unit is Still a cone clutch unit, & can wear. Not positive it's a 100% locked, when Locked, but in the unlimited stage, it will wear the clutches. Auburn is the Only one that can rebuild the unit, {I think} so your at Their mercy. Also requires the clutch unit Lube.
 
Caver Dave said:
Do the Eaton E-lockers still come with a tire size limitation/stipulation?
Several folks I know had them in the early days, had lots of issues, and were denied warrant claims due to larger than 35"...
Click to expand...
I believe the early units were a 2 pinion, & had limits. Some say they didn't hold in reverse. Later they made a 4 pinion unit, which improved the limits & possible reverse problem. This is all "hear-say" & I don't even know which model mine is. I've never had to Test it in reverse, & other than 1 electrical connection, has been my only problem. I do run 35" tires, T-18, D 20 with terra-low kit, & D 44s, with 4.56. Powered by AMC 304!
 
Detroit and three point turns are "where" my go too.

Unless we steered a little with the rear....which the other Detroit helped.
 
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