Painting and such

Rich

Rich

Asshole at large
Joined
Mar 17, 2005
Location
Central PA
I'm getting ready to take the old paint off, prime, and re-paint the little bodywork that's left on my cruiser... (Hood, front bib, fender skirts, and cowl)

The paint on most of it isn't really all that bad, I'd bet some sanding and primer would make a good enough finish... But the cowl...ohhh, the cowl. especially around the brake & clutch master cylinder area.. nasty. some surface rust, LOTS of bubbling paint, etc...

What would be your idea for the most time-effective solution? flapper wheel on the nasty areas, and just scuff the rest?

paint will be a rattle-can, I'm not entering any shows, but if it's worth doing, it's worth doing well, so I'd like it to come out nice.
 
Rich, I am no paint guy at all, but I saw a product(new to me anyway) from Rustoleom. Called "hammered" You brush it on, but it blends very well to make a smooth finish. The bubbling around your MC is from brake fluid. So 1. make sure there isn't still a leak, and 2. make sure all that is is clean and dry before putting anything on it. This "hammered stuff is tough. I personally know that if dripped in a concrete floor and dried, it takes a hammer and chisle to get it off!

As far as the rest of it, a good scuffing will make the paint adhere best. (no shinny spots left is a good indicator) If,.... you really wanted it all to look good, sand blasting, primed and then sprayed would be the way to go. If you were closer you would be welcome to use my blaster
 
That sounds like pretty cool stuff to use in high use areas or areas that are open to chemical damage.
 
Wow, when I painted my truck I just used the fuzzy faded red paint to hold mine on. That and the dirt. Haven't had it come off yet. Been about a year now.
 
Wolfpack OffRoad said:
That sounds like pretty cool stuff to use in high use areas or areas that are open to chemical damage.
Click to expand...

A friend of mine used it on his Jeep. He was using it as a base before he used a roll on bedliner. If he had knew it was going to look as good and be as strong as it was, he wouldn't have even bought the bedliner stuff.
 
Yeah, the brake fluid I'm very aware of, it's been an ongoing battle to stop it, but I've got it now.. switching from a reman'd vette master to a *new* Toyota one with a screw-on cap. the master is fine, but I was always fighting leaks through the cap when I get real off-camber.

Keep the tips coming, I hate bodywork!
 
at "sLOWES" they have it in qt cans. $10 47 . Black only, but it looks more like a dark charcol Gray to me when applied.
 
You can always take it down to bare metal and eliminate any surface rust (wire wheel, grind it off, something). Problem is, normal primer doesn't stick well to bare metal, so get yourself some etching primer. Lay a thin coat over the metal and chemicals adhere to it giving you something solid to lay your primer on. If the rest of the paint is fine, wet sand or scuff with 400-600 grit if you're going to use primer, if you're going to paint right over the old paint then 800-1000 grit would work. If you do it with any less than 400, you're going to see all these little nasty scratches.

Also, the place you take down to bare metal to make sure the rust is gone, feather the edges of the paint around where the repair was made. If not, you're going to see a high spot in your paint. The primer will fill it in, and after sanded it should be smooth with the rest of the car. This is all, of course, if no bondo is needed.

Hope this helps.
 
Aircraft stripper to remove old paint
100-150-180 grit to remove surface rust. Get it ALL off or you are wasting time
Self etching primer GOOD stuff from PPG Paint shop
Sand primer in stages 120/180/220/400. The best way is to spray a VERY thin layer (do not cover it) of black primer (cheap) so you can see what you have sanded.
Paint then sand 400/600/800/1200/
Clear sand/polish 1200/1500/2000 Scotch Ultra Fine (gray)
Bonnet Polish w 3M

This is the correct way but time can always be saved if finish isnt priority. Just dont skimp on the rust removal and self etch primer. If you notice each following stage starts w/ the final sanding grit of the previous. Therefore ALL deeper scratches are remover before proceeding.

This is the process we use to paint $100k+ cars w/ a minor grit changes depending on color/ metal or fiberglass and time/how much customer wants to spend.
 
We used the Hammered Enamel on the nose of BUG, that is the silver color. (#7213) They make it in all sorts of colors, and $10-12 a quart sounds right.

http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp?ddf=73&frm_product_id=21&SBL=1
Color #7216 would look good on your rig dude!

Buy you a "cheap" paint gun dude, and then buy your paint by the quart, and some paint thinner to clean the gun/thin out the paint.

Rustoleum Protective Enamel is $7 a quart...my guess is you could paint your entire rig for that! (Maybe get a 2nd quart to have for touchups later on)

http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp?ddf=162&frm_product_id=18&SBL=1
#7727 maybe, Royal Blue?

www.rustoleum.com

I know you have read this before Rich, but for the others, here is a link to me painting BUG for $80 or less!!

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/cheap_paint/

Sam
 
Franklin said:
Self etching primer GOOD stuff from PPG Paint shop
Click to expand...

Thinking that was my failing on the CJ...

What about epoxied fiberglass? Is there a primer needed for that?

J
 
Yeah, let's keep this focused on trail rig painting please.. My idea of shine on the paint is if you can tell if the sun is out, not how many hairs are out of place on my head.

That hammered is interesting.. are there any hi-res pics of your silver? that 7216 color is looking good... I just don't want too much of a herculiner look.. :p

I reaaaalllyyy like the look of http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp?frm_product_id=22&SBL=1 in the blue metallic... I don't think it'll take more than 2-3 cans to paint everything I've got... Plus, there's less overspray...

I'm still open for suggestions... bring it!
 
Rich I have the rustoleum blue metallic paint on my rig. With a little rustoleum clear too from the spray can.

517516b5.jpg


this fender has been photochopped but here is a close up of the blue metallic paint. Bitchn'!! :beer:

frontfenderreworked.jpg


I had some of that dark grey hammered paint on my wheels & cage a while back. Good stuff.
 
Rich i have painted lots of cars and the rattle can method will make it look worse than it did before. it will fade and look like crap real fast and it willcost about the sam as if you went to carquest an bought cheapest synthetic enamel they have.

you might what to consider buying a gallon of rustolium and spray it on with a automotive type HVLP gun at least it would have some shine. I can help you with either method
 
Doesn't paint need to be exposed to UV to fade? That would explain why my paint looks the same as it did a year ago... it's stored inside... and, I'm always touching it up.

Sprayman.. I've always liked the color on your Jeep.. we'll have to get a side by side pic next time we're both in the same place!
 
Thanks, yeah we'll do some poser shots at the mall or something. LOL. Here are some pics of my hammered wheels from a while back when my jeep was red!

It's kind of hard to tell but the paint also has kind of a ripple effect.

hammeredwheels.jpg


redback.jpg
 
Rich, the HAMMERED line does have a TEXTURE to it, it does not 'lay flat' like most paint. It looks like an extreme case of orange peel at most. I like it...but I cannot seem to capture it on digi.

That metallic looks nice too....it is the same as the rest of my jeep, but with a BUNCH of metal flake mixed in. Prob would look really nice, don't know if they sell it in the quart though.

Personally I think you can tell between a spray can and spray gun, but is probably because "most" folks using a can don't take their time with it. I haven't seen Noah (Spraypaintcanguy)'s rig up close yet but the pictures are NICE. I am sure he took his time and didn't put it on too heavy/runs.

Sam
 
I used the metallic on the windshield frame yesterday.. it's :huggy:

Now to get the paint off the damn cowl.. ugh.
 
Sweet Rich, I have a few runs on mine Sam. Doh! :)
 
Speaking of spray cans... I've got several of each color of CAMOUFLAGE, and intend to put them on my Jimmy this summer. But a lot of the original paint has peeled off the roof, and there's at least one good-size rust spot on the left rear fender right near the bumper. I went to that Rustoleum site, to check on that "Hammered" stuff, and there was a link on that page to something called Rusty Metal Primer that's supposed to be able to go right over top of rust. Anyone tried the stuff?
 
I may have missed "why" you are wanting the paint off the cowl? I assume it must be rust/bubbling or something?

If not...don't try to strip the factory paint, that is the "best" primer you can get, scuff it up and paint over it!

For the rusty sections...maybe a wire wheel brush and GOOD eye protection!!!! If you have lots of holes, holler back and we can discuss how to patch them.

Sam
 
The cowl has multiple layers of spray can paint over the factory paint, and most of the driver's side has bubbled up from brake fluid over the years.

Also, I can't actually touch some of the areas with a brush or anything, but they need some attention & paint..

There are lots of holes, but it's gonna have to wait. I don't have the time to patch them up.

As far as rust, I'm proud to say I have a 95% rust-free cruiser now! (I've gotten rid of all the rusty pieces...) :p
 
Update - the previous owner actually used a little bit o' bondo on one little section of a fender skirt... :lol:

The cowl is blasted either to bare metal, or original paint, as are the fender skirts. the bib is blasted down to metal, but I'm too damn impatient with the hood... I got sick of blasting... might try sanding it a bit, see if the 120 grit can give me a decent surface to work on.

I am, however, going to return the spray bomb cans, and use the spray gun... This means the metallic paint on the windshield will have to go, I wasn't really happy how it came out once fully dry - no gloss.

Can't decide between the hammered blue, and the regular enamel blue.. leaning towards the hammered, but I hope it shines some...

Oh, and Nicole wants to design some kind of art on the hood.. we'll see.

Now if I could just get my compressor to quit blowing oil out the gun! (i think it's because it's new)
 
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