Piddlin'

From the get go we knew Front driveshaft angle and length was going to be an issue. I started shopping for a carrier bearing with Toyota flanges. It’s a pretty niche market, and the players are pretty proud of their product. I got quotes upward of 700$. @DannyH put me onto Scott’s Custom Off-road out of PA. He offers a sealed carrier bearing with Toyota Flanges, tapered roller bearings, chromoly 30 spline shaft for 450$. The flanges come un drilled. I lucked out and mine ended up with one side triple drilled. Finished drilling the other side earlier today. Jason added the bracket and mount holes to bolt to my chassis. This brought my midship shaft to 16.5” and front driveshaft to 30ish with a whole lot better angle.
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I spoke to Pirtek today about making the hoses from my orbital to my ram. I settled on 2 hoses around 75” of hose plus fittings and they quoted me 350$. I understand being quoted as a no name retail customer with no account, but that seemed high.
 
Yeah don’t pay that... I can probably have something made as well for decent


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I’m going to try to swing by alliance tomorrow.
I pulled some measurements today. One of which was the rear driveshaft angle at ride height. I don’t have an angle finder, so I used my iPhone and came up with 20 degrees. Waiting to hear back from Oliver’s if they want to use a CV on it. I also extended my airshocks to pull a total extended length measurement. 35.25” total length eye to eye of the shock mounts. 35.25 times .083 is 2.92575. 35.25 minus 2.92 is 32.32”.

just to be clear, a 32” limit strap should keep me from damaging my shock. Correct? I plan to use my air shock mount bolts instead of adding tabs. Feedback?
 
ProbablyBroke said:
I’m going to try to swing by alliance tomorrow.
I pulled some measurements today. One of which was the rear driveshaft angle at ride height. I don’t have an angle finder, so I used my iPhone and came up with 20 degrees. Waiting to hear back from Oliver’s if they want to use a CV on it. I also extended my airshocks to pull a total extended length measurement. 35.25” total length eye to eye of the shock mounts. 35.25 times .083 is 2.92575. 35.25 minus 2.92 is 32.32”.

just to be clear, a 32” limit strap should keep me from damaging my shock. Correct? I plan to use my air shock mount bolts instead of adding tabs. Feedback?
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Sounds right to me. Seen quite a few folks run them this way and it works good. Might need a small spacer to get the metal part of the limit strap off the shock if I remember correctly.


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check out surplus center if you know the length and fittings you need.

Alliance is awesome as well. I would be tempted to put the buggy on the trailer and take it up there. They can make all the lines for it, while it is there.
 
I’m planning to run both lines down the passenger side upper link. Running a single ended ram with two 90 degree elbow fittings coming out of the rams ports. I have one fitting pointing in the orientation I need, but the other is pretty darn tight and 180 degrees out from where I need for a straight shot up the link. What’s the beat course of action? Is there a sealant that’s rated for hydraulic use that will lock the elbow where I need it without bottoming the pipe threads. I’m a newb.
 
Npt are a PITA in that situation. Might want to grab a straight adapter to AN fittings and then you can turn it any way you want. Doesn’t add much length if any.


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DannyH said:
Npt are a PITA in that situation. Might want to grab a straight adapter to AN fittings and then you can turn it any way you want. Doesn’t add much length if any.


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skyhighZJ said:
Apache 90 Degree O-Ring Swivel Adapter Adapter — 3/8in. F NPSM x 3/8in. M STOR | Northern Tool
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x2 on both of these. I would convert to AN, and then just have the hose made with 90* fittings on the end. They flow better than swivels, but the swivels will work.
 
Buggy is loaded up and we’re headed to alliance hose in the morning. Considering how reasonable the quote on the steering hoses was, I’ll probably have them assess my brake and clutch hose situation.
 
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Went and picked up my driveshafts from Oliver’s today. Their finished product is great. I’m upset that they charged me 95$/hr to cut 2” of hardened slip shaft with a chop saw without calling to let me know or giving me an option.
Rear shaft is 1/4” wall with a long slip, midship shaft is a stock rear Toyota pickup shaft cut down about as short as possible. Front is a .13” wall long slip. Toyota Flanges everywhere.
Still need to install the front high pinion 4.10 third before I bolt up the front shaft.
 
Today was a great day despite a few rain showers. I was able to pull the front low pinion 5.29 third member and install my 4.10 lock right, hi pinion. Verified that the birfields are original Longfield 30 splines. The hi pinion third absolutely was not set up by @yager. Ultimately, I’d like to go to 5.29s but right now, my priority is getting everything else operational. I’m very happy with my driveshaft angle coming off the carrier bearing. Topped off both axles with gear oil and called it a day.
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to do:
-Plumb brake lines
- wire the darn thing
- weld in harness tabs
- order harness and limit straps
- change engine oil
 
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Don’t buy into that PSC BS I’m running AW32/universal hydraulic fluid. I was in a bind and had to used what I could get at TSC and haven’t touched it since.

Edit: it is @Jody Treadway approved, not sure if that helps or hurts my case.
 
I’ve always just used off the shelf cheap steering fluid from any parts store. Never really had any issues due to the fluid.


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Had the day off and dodged all responsibility to work on the buggy. Started by rerouting the brake line on the rear axle underneath the truss. Braved the heat and pulled the out the welder long enough to boogerweld the Barnes battery box into place. Welded in a stud for the front brake T. Replaced the radiator with one from an old part out. Cut a template for the dash out of some posterboard. I have some 1/8” stainless I intend to use for the minimalistic dash panel. Hacked at the stainless material with the portaband and angle grinder before I decided to actually hooked up the plasma cutter. Then went to eat tacos for the first time since the Coronavirus outbreak.
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It really is remarkable how little I can get done in an entire day. Finished up the dash panel to the best of my ability. I’m guessing I over heated the stainless at some point because it started eating drill bits like a boss. Had to finesse it with the plasma to make 7/16” holes for toggle switches and my starter button. Has any one ever used Blue Sea brand fuse panels? Are they worth the extra 30$ over an amazon fuse panel? Im planning for a 6 circuit panel. Also trying to figure out where to stick the muffler.
 
You running a bullet or an oval muffler? If it's an oval, turn it up on its side between the frame rail and the t-case. Move it forward or backward depending on where you have the most clearance. And order some heat wrap off eBay and wrap all your exhaust.

On my buggy, I'm having to run a bullet muffler because I don't have room for an oval muffler. And lots of exhaust wrap on all the exhaust to try and keep the inside of the buggy from getting too warm.

I've got a Blue Sea fuse panel, didn't want to take any chances of having electrical issues with a cheap one. Another buddy of mine is running one in his Sami buggy and has had zero issues.
 
ProbablyBroke said:
View attachment 320700 View attachment 320701 View attachment 320702 It really is remarkable how little I can get done in an entire day. Finished up the dash panel to the best of my ability. I’m guessing I over heated the stainless at some point because it started eating drill bits like a boss. Had to finesse it with the plasma to make 7/16” holes for toggle switches and my starter button. Has any one ever used Blue Sea brand fuse panels? Are they worth the extra 30$ over an amazon fuse panel? Im planning for a 6 circuit panel. Also trying to figure out where to stick the muffler.
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Steady pressure and straight water as coolant for stainless will make sort work of the holes for future reference.
 
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