Project: 2001 Nissan Pathfinder

Gonna buy some 36" iroks off of Lurch830, I've decided to use the iroks only on the trails to save gas and power. Ill keep my Highway tires to drive to the trails and switch when I get there. I can fit 34"-35" with the lift I'll be putting on soon but the extra inch will need some trimming on the fenders. Anybody have any suggestions on getting them to fit?
 
Gonna buy some 36" iroks off of Lurch830, I've decided to use the iroks only on the trails to save gas and power. Ill keep my Highway tires to drive to the trails and switch when I get there. I can fit 34"-35" with the lift I'll be putting on soon but the extra inch will need some trimming on the fenders. Anybody have any suggestions on getting them to fit?

I tried pulling that job when I first started wheeling and after two trips it becomes a giant pain in the ass. Before you know you will be driving to the trails with IROKs already on. Measure the IROKs. They may say 36" but may measure something different. Bigger or Smaller. my BFG 33s are barely 32"
 
My 36" iroks measure just under 35" with 8 psi in them. But then again my 33s measured out to 31" with 8 psi. So 35s would measure 33 or so I would assume.
 
35's, 36's are going to be too big. Find some 31's or 33's max. How are you planning to get them to the trail? I doubt they'll fit in the Pathfinder..
 
Gonna buy some 36" iroks off of Lurch830, I've decided to use the iroks only on the trails to save gas and power. Ill keep my Highway tires to drive to the trails and switch when I get there. I can fit 34"-35" with the lift I'll be putting on soon but the extra inch will need some trimming on the fenders. Anybody have any suggestions on getting them to fit?

An angle grinder with a cut-off wheel. Turn the wheel to full lock and flex the suspension. Cut where the tire rubs. Done.
 
Why go 36's? Im not knocking you man Im just trying to understand. With that truck and ifs 33's and you will be able to do everything in URE with out braking your axles and still have a challenge. 36's on that and your really goona want to go to a Solid axle. Come out and check out NOAS4x4club.com some time and come to one of our runs. Love to see the truck.
 
Why go 36's? Im not knocking you man Im just trying to understand. With that truck and ifs 33's and you will be able to do everything in URE with out braking your axles and still have a challenge. 36's on that and your really goona want to go to a Solid axle. Come out and check out NOAS4x4club.com some time and come to one of our runs. Love to see the truck.
The 36" IROKS are temporary. I bought them to replace my highway tires until I get around to getting a 33-34" All-terrain. I want to have something better than highway tires for Devils Playground Feb. 22
 
Didn't pass NC inspection because of small dent in the subframe. Putting project on hold until I decide if new subframe and subframe drop would be cheaper/easier than a SAS.
 
I might, SAS coming together though. I will drive my dads truck until we have it SAS'ed then I will get it reinspected.
 
is this your first wheeling truck man?
 
man you really might want to try and wheel it some stock to learn the vehical and see what it can do and hone your skills before you jump to such a huge truck. Trust me I want to see your truck sasd and massive as much as anyone. Just trying to pass on some wisdom i have learned over the years.
 
I agree with 88bronzetrooper above. If the inspection place didn't flag you in the system, find another inspection place and don't even mention, point to or indicate the subframe dent. Then wheel it as-is while you're collecting parts for the SAS. I was surprised how much capability just putting a rear locker in adds to an otherwise stock vehicle.
 
And I will tell ya man,when you learn what a vechicle can do and where you can put it, (all about the right lines) Its so much fun to walk up an obstical in your little truck while the big boys have a hard time!
 
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I just went and reread this whole build thread. I do have a couple of questions for you. Is this your dd and is it still in good shape? If so then I would hold off on the sas it's gonna cost a lot and a lot more if you don't have the skills to do it yourself and at best i would say your gonna be down for a week minimum. Once you do the sas the drive ability of it going to change a lot. What I'm trying to say is that for the price of what your about to undertake in a sas you can fine something that's already lifted possibly locked and you'll still have your nice vehicle. Then you can wheel the other and keep the pathfinder nice until your better off (able to have a vehicle down for a couple of weeks at any time).
 
I can have the pathy in the shop for a while, I have a backup truck. I dont want to take it wheeling stock again until I get more ground clearance and traction. That was my main problem at uwaharrie and what led to so much damage. The truck is super reliable and the Sas would be cheaper than a new subframe and subframe drop.
 
Have you sat down and figured the costs of doing this by the time you buy a 44 gear and lock it re gear the back the do the three link then go with coil overs or air shocks I can't see it costing less than 2500-3000 if you do it all yourself get a shop to do it id double that.
 
i do just fine biggest thing to worry about is tie rods
 

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Nice Truck Krawler. Where you from?
 
Im in greenville. My truck is sittin on 32.1 bfg mt's with 2" wheel spacers. Ive got roughly 2.5" of lift all custom by me. After reading this i can see sombody has def done their research on npora but i dont think with the 35's your rpm estimate is correct ive got the big gears in mine factory 4.86 and after 75mph it wont go into overdrive so it usually sits around 3500rpm. I was gonna do a subframe drop on mine and had everything done steering extension lift blocks and skids but the guy from kfabs wouldnt sell me just the strut spacers so i took it all back off. When i lift again it will be dana 44's front and rear and hopefully a cummins 4bt one day but will def keep up with this thread and see where it goes.
 
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