Project 84 F150 Fishing Truck! AKA: "The Blue Horse!"

Creekin said:
Muffler looks good.

Long time ago, this guy would do the same thing ZJ was talking about to folks who were walking down the road... just to scare folks.
One day, he blew up his exhaust. Karma...

Have you run a compression check and a vacuum check?
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Motor was running good. I’m thinking now when I removed all the vacuum lines I pulled one too many....
 
Yeah the vacuum line to the dist will set a base line and then as the rpm goes up the motor creates more vacuum and advances the timing (spark) I’m not a rocket surgeon with this shit so hopefully someone will chime in with a better explanation but that line being unhooked can cause it to run like shit and if anything is unplugged that shouldn’t be (vacuum leak) it will compound the issue.
 
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Here is a picture I found on the interwebs of a ‘81. Looks like the yellow one comes around to the middle spot?
 
Sadly the Blue truck had to come home and we never did anything but try and figure out what is going on. Thanks Skyhigh for the help. It will not stay running and is very hard to start. She also smalls like varnish and backfires. I'm convinced it has to do with the vacuum line on the distributor and maybe some bad gas. Today should be a slow day at work so one I get in I'll be doing some research.
 
Could the bad gas has caused some issues inside the carb?
When I picked up the CJ, it would hardly run as well.
A quick rebuild of the Carb did wonders.
Just my $0.015 worth
 
The varnish part is definitely from setting up and the gas going to shit. Like @Creekin said should be a simple carb kit and clean/soak all the hard parts and it will make a world of difference. The back fire is spark/timing related. It’s trying to bang at the wrong time.
 
Running lean will cause backfire when trying to give it gas. If the carb passages and jets are stopped up with varnish it will run lean. Or the fuel filter.

You need to verify the fuel pressure AND volume are good at the carb. Make sure no vacuum plugs got blown off on the initial backfire, making it even more lean.

If those are good, that one barrel is one of the simplest carbs to build. It's basically a needle, seat, and float, an accelerator pump plunger, and a jet that has a mechanical actuated metering rod. It's not much more than a glorified lawn mower carb.

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So small update. I pulled the carb off yesterday afternoon. Cleaned it up inside the bowl and what I assume is the jet. I did get it to run for a short time but it would not idle unless I had my foot on the gas. I tried to duplicate it after it stopped and was unable to. That was the first time I have ever been inside a carb. Not sure if I have a bad fuel problem a carb problem or what.....
 
ghost said:
So small update. I pulled the carb off yesterday afternoon. Cleaned it up inside the bowl and what I assume is the jet. I did get it to run for a short time but it would not idle unless I had my foot on the gas. I tried to duplicate it after it stopped and was unable to. That was the first time I have ever been inside a carb. Not sure if I have a bad fuel problem a carb problem or what.....
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Idle passages could be stopped up too. Pull it back apart as far as possible off the truck, spray carb cleaner in every passage you can find while wearing safety glasses, because the other side of all of them seem to be aimed at your eyes somehow. And then blow it out with compressed air if you have it.

Take the idle mixture screw out and make sure that passage is open both to the hole below the throttle plate and into the bowl. The idle circuit has a jet or restriction too but it's usually not removable and it's much smaller than the main jet in the bottom of the bowl.

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Ok so had a break here at work and pulled the car b back off and removed the idle air screw. Was only in 1 and 3/4 turns. Sprayed off the screw and the hole it went in. Put everything back together and still about the same. I did mess with the idle air screw and backed it out and it helped some I think. It would idle for a few seconds then chug and shut down. I was again able to start it by just the right pressure on the gas pedal. Was unable to duplicate it after I took my foot off and it shut off. I'm about ready to take it to my mechanic/jeep friend Lenny..... Oh yea when I opened it back up the fuel was brownish looking. I'm begging to wonder if that is the problem and the solution is to drain the tank clean it and the fuel pump and fill with fresh gas.
 
How old is the gas?
 
drkelly said:
How old is the gas?
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I'm not entirely sure. When we got it it appeared to be empty. We put some 5 gallon cans in until it was full once ready to be driven. I'm wondering if there was old gas in the tank that has mixed with the new and made it less potent.
 
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Straight out of the pump. Poured it on the ground and it lit slow. I think this is my problem.
 
So I pulled the tank this after noon and its nasty.... I think something is missing on the fuel level sending unit......

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Did some cleaning on the tank today and that pressure washer I recently bought did a great job. However there are some small holes in a corner. Are these tanks steel and can they be patched by welding? Are there any other options om repair?
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I would just buy a new tank from JCWhitney or somewhere like that.
 
I had a piece of gravel get between my tank and skid plate and worn a small hole in the bottom, been holding with JB weld for bout 12 years now. Like drkelly said if it’s real bad just get a new one
 
The thing about trying to weld is that all the surrounding metal is thin, so you'll have a frustrating time. Eastwood makes a tank sealer that works well, but a new tank is probably your best bet.
 
So new tank and new sending unit and the fuel level gauge works now.....
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Rebuilt the carb....
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Never done that before. Not 100% sure I did it right either. Put fresh fuel in and she still will not stay running. Will fire right up with starting fluid then die. So for $25 I can put a new fuel pump on it. I know it pumps but I'm thinking maybe it's not pumping enough. One thing making me think this is that the truck runs good once it starts but will not idle. The higher rpm's pump more fuel so therefore it's not pumping enough at idle. This had been very educational but I'm ready to have a truck that will drive......
 
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And she keeps fighting me! Found some wires with the shielding gone. Wrapped the bare spots with tape to test it. Nada! Will not start with the new pump. I think it’s time to call my mechanic busy Lenny.
 
Vacuum leak off the carb or somewhere on the intake where you disconnected some of the vacuum hoses?
 
So Friday with truck on trailer I went to see my old friend Lenny. After seeing its nto getting fuel he had me pull the carb and we tore it down on his bench. Apparently a little ball got lost at some point and I missed reinstalling it... so carb works now. So I reinstalled it and still would not run. After scratching his head and doing a few test I would have never realized to do. he determined it was loosing spark after cranking. Survey says ignition box on the fender. He jumped 2 wires and boom she's running. he adjusted the carb and said go get a box. Took him about 2 hours. I asked what I owe you he said $30. Money well spent and now we have a running truck. Now on to the headlights and fix my muffler. Now I just need to get the MJ running right.....
 
So now that she is running right we need to figure out the electrical draw. Last couple weeks we finished the MJ and it's been on the road for a week or so. Still some small things to do there. I also have to finish putting a muffler back on this thing. I did some testing and the headlights are just blown. So we will be replacing them. I did notice with the lights off there is a .5 volt on the wires. Could that be the headlight switch? How do I test this and figure out what is going on. Electric problems are usually a death blow for me.....
 
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