Project "Armageddon" Quigley E250

x2 on the rings being seized. You can try putting a bit of oil in each hole and rotate the motor w/plugs out to help get some oil to them and free them up. Expect blow-by and gas in the oil until they let go.
 
Keep in mind that if it's been sitting for 18 years, the roller bearings might be brinelled. U joints, wheel bearings, potentially carrier & pinion, t-case, etc. It'll run for a while, but you'll start having bearing failures.
 
Marvel Mystery Oil mixed with brake fluid is a really good penetrating fluid. I'll do that for a few days, then spin it over, and use motor oil for a few days to get some lube up in there before firing it up to run it for a while.
 
Keep in mind that if it's been sitting for 18 years, the roller bearings might be brinelled. U joints, wheel bearings, potentially carrier & pinion, t-case, etc. It'll run for a while, but you'll start having bearing failures.
Awesome
When I was underneath I noticed a bit of antifreeze. It's from the water pumps weep hole. After watching a few videos it seems like I might get to break some bolts off in the block while removing it.
After removing the belts I noticed the crankshaft pulley is ruined with rust. Thankfully you can't just buy a new pulley. You have to go on eBay and find an overpriced rusty one.
I can't figure out the rusted pulley. Maybe the frt end sat in a creek for a while.
Gotta love my wife...
She says last night. "Maybe it's got a blown head gasket too due to the leaking water pump". Probably what the cherry picker was for...drrr"
One can only hope
 

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Thanks. I've been wanting one of these for a while. Hopefully I won't run into any big expenses.
As far as the carb....I'll probably get everything ready as far as a tuneup etc and see how it goes. Maybe it'll run great? If not I'll probably go the eBay route for carb. Just too many variables with rebuilding one and all the things that can go wrong.
I used to run MC 2 barrell carbs exclusively back in the day. When they're dialed in, they run very well. I'd suggest rebuilding yours vs buying one. I say this as the rebuilt ones will likely have a wallowed out throttle shaft bore in the main body. You can test yourself by hitting that spot with carb clean when running. If the idle smoothes out, you have a leak. Most do, some are just enough to live with.
 
I used to run MC 2 barrell carbs exclusively back in the day. When they're dialed in, they run very well. I'd suggest rebuilding yours vs buying one. I say this as the rebuilt ones will likely have a wallowed out throttle shaft bore in the main body. You can test yourself by hitting that spot with carb clean when running. If the idle smoothes out, you have a leak. Most do, some are just enough to live with.

My brother in Christ, that appears to be a 4 barrel Holley but I agree with you, hard to beat a 2100 motorcraft. Thankfully it's not 2002 and now we have vevor...

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I used to run MC 2 barrell carbs exclusively back in the day. When they're dialed in, they run very well. I'd suggest rebuilding yours vs buying one. I say this as the rebuilt ones will likely have a wallowed out throttle shaft bore in the main body. You can test yourself by hitting that spot with carb clean when running. If the idle smoothes out, you have a leak. Most do, some are just enough to live with.
Thanks guys and yes it's a Holley 4180 maybe 4180C ? It has elec. choke.
From what I'm reading...the fix for it is a
Edelbrock 1406.lol
It seems from Google searches many people have troubles with this Holley after rebuilds ranging from tuning , tiny vacuum leaks,warped surfaces between gaskets, flooding and even no one makes the original power valves.
On the other hand I see.many happy people with the Edelbrock.
I don't even imagine this carb will just function after 18 yrs of sitting.
I did get it running for a moment...maybe 15 seconds when pouring in gas. As mentioned I'm a novice in many auto subjects. When I added fuel via a funnel I probably added too much and probably to wrong area...I poured it in the top of carb with the choke/throttle plate. Maybe that's why it dumped into my oil?
 
Thanks guys and yes it's a Holley 4180 maybe 4180C ? It has elec. choke.
From what I'm reading...the fix for it is a
Edelbrock 1406.lol
It seems from Google searches many people have troubles with this Holley after rebuilds ranging from tuning , tiny vacuum leaks,warped surfaces between gaskets, flooding and even no one makes the original power valves.
On the other hand I see.many happy people with the Edelbrock.
I don't even imagine this carb will just function after 18 yrs of sitting.
I did get it running for a moment...maybe 15 seconds when pouring in gas. As mentioned I'm a novice in many auto subjects. When I added fuel via a funnel I probably added too much and probably to wrong area...I poured it in the top of carb with the choke/throttle plate. Maybe that's why it dumped into my oil?
Amazon product ASIN B07YZVR6DMI have never had any luck with an Edelbrock carb on a ford. I have a friend that is great with Holley carbs. Want me to see if he would rebuild it if you buy a kit?
 
I’ve been dailying one of those Amazon special MC2100s for almost a year now.
Only thing I would say is also buy a genuine Holley power valve and jets to swap in before even running it
 
I’ve been dailying one of those Amazon special MC2100s for almost a year now.
Only thing I would say is also buy a genuine Holley power valve and jets to swap in before even running it
Thanks for the info. I've read that Holley doesn't make the original power valves any longer. I've read threads where people have had trouble trying to find a suitable PV. After some googlefu, it seems a fella on eBay has them for around $20. I think I'll get one to go with the Holley kit since their kit comes with no PV at all from reading some reviews. It's a two stage PV on trucks and a single stage on passenger cars with the 4180 or so it seems.
 
Yesterday was a reality check,
I spent a couple hours on the van prepping to remove water pump. I had to remove an AC bracket that covers the power steering bracket which also... had to come off. Now I'm waiting for the kroil to do it's thing. Today I plan to use a little heat around every bolt and try to remove the pump without snapping any. I'm a bit nervous from reading others stories of 2-4 bolts snapping😬

On another note; Seems Everytime I look at this van I see another problem.
I couldn't get it to shift out of park and thought it was just needing the key or maybe brake depressed. Well I depressed the brake pedal and it's just mush. Then I looked at shift linkage next to the trans and wtf is that shi!!z?
The rod comes from the column down to a freaking rusted out birdcage looking contraption. I don't even know what to call it.
***Any guesses to what all those rods,levers and thingamajigs are "called" would be helpful in Google searches
Pics when it warms up
 

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Thanks for the info. I've read that Holley doesn't make the original power valves any longer. I've read threads where people have had trouble trying to find a suitable PV. After some googlefu, it seems a fella on eBay has them for around $20. I think I'll get one to go with the Holley kit since their kit comes with no PV at all from reading some reviews. It's a two stage PV on trucks and a single stage on passenger cars with the 4180 or so it seems.
I've been buying all my carb parts here:

 
Email Holley tell them you have a stock 351w in a van and want drive it down the highway, then spent $400 on a new one, this is the only way you are going to get it driving worth a shit I promise you.
Chock the wheels then get under the van, one of the arms on the side of the trans goes to your throttle linkage on the carb hopefully still and is the kickdown, the other is your gear selector. Pull the linkage off the selector arm and move it out of park manually. It's possible the pawl is rusted to the parking gear after sitting so long. You're going to need to pull the trans pan anyway now would be a good time
 
Email Holley tell them you have a stock 351w in a van and want drive it down the highway, then spent $400 on a new one, this is the only way you are going to get it driving worth a shit I promise you.
Chock the wheels then get under the van, one of the arms on the side of the trans goes to your throttle linkage on the carb hopefully still and is the kickdown, the other is your gear selector. Pull the linkage off the selector arm and move it out of park manually. It's possible the pawl is rusted to the parking gear after sitting so long. You're going to need to pull the trans pan anyway now would be a good time
Thanks for the info and advice.
I was at my local mechanics yesterday and mentioned my carb issue. Two guys at once said take it to Cornwells which is a local older fella that builds carbs daily. Then today I asked a good guy behind counter at O'Reilly's about a holley rebuild and he said Cornwells immediately.
***You think it's a waste of time? ***The carb does have the kickdown bar to trans. It's also the cleanest looking thing on the van.lol
I also found a company that has 4180's ready to go. They have good reviews and are $200 less than a new one. I dunno?
Here are some pics of shift linkage which I soaked in PB blaster.
 

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Just removed carburetor and this is a 302 instead of 351.
It came from factory with a 351 so says the vin.
What tipped me off was that the intake says Edelbrock Performer 289. That intake can go on the 351 but requires an adapter because the 351 is wider between the heads. I don't see an adapter. Also, while working on removing the AC,PS to access the water pump I saw some bracket bolts that weren't fully seated. The PO obviously finished the swap with the cherry picker that was in the van.
The only thing I've purchased is a water pump and it's the same part # so all's well. Wish it was a 351...never had one.
 
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Just removed carburetor and this is a 302 instead of 351.
It came from factory with a 351 so says the vin.
What tipped me off was that the intake says Edelbrock Performer 289. That intake can go on the 351 but requires an adapter because the 351 is wider between the heads. I don't see an adapter. Also, while working on removing the AC,PS to access the water pump I saw some bracket bolts that weren't fully seated. The PO obviously finished the swap with the cherry picker that was in the van.
The only thing I've purchased is a water pump and it's the same part # so all's well. Wish it was a 351...never had one.
Some of the accessory brackets from a 351 may not fit on a 302. I would go to the pull a part and get the serpentine set up off a 5.0 F150 or E150 and use that. Or I did see several complete 351w's on fb market place last night.
 
Yeah probably should but I've already purchased a crankshaft pulley for the 3 V belt set up.
Whatever problems PO ran into with 351 to 302 swap have been addressed it seems. All the accessories were in place just a hard to reach bolt on the AC bracket was not completely tightened.
I've done this a few times and I guess I'm slow to learn. "Don't buy projects especially if you can't talk to the PO."
I bought this thing because I just can't spend 40k+ on a newer one or 15k for that matter on an older sweet one.
I'm at about 2k with initial cost,all the tuneup stuff,water pump, delivery etc.
I'm hoping to stay under 5k running and driving with a bedliner paint job and some nice shoes.
We'll see...it may be on marketplace in a week or two.lol
 
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Yeah probably should but I've already purchased a crankshaft pulley for the 3 V belt set up.
Whatever problems PO ran into with 351 to 302 swap have been addressed it seems. All the accessories were in place just a hard to reach bolt on the AC bracket was not completely tightened.
I've done this a few times and I guess I'm slow to learn. "Don't buy non projects especially if you can't talk to the PO."
I bought this thing because I just can't spend 40k+ on a newer one or 15k for that matter on an older sweet one.
I'm at about 2k with initial cost,all the tuneup stuff,water pump, delivery etc.
I'm hoping to stay under 5k running and driving with a bedliner paint job and some nice shoes.
We'll see...it may be on marketplace in a week or two.lol
Don't blame you if you already bought parts. Sounds like a good plan. But please no bed liner paint job. There are so many vehicles I didn't buy that I would have because of bed liner paint jobs it makes it so hard to strip and paint later. But it is your van so if it's what you want go for it. But I think it turns people off if you ever re-sell. I did buy a dana 60 out of one of these vans a couple years ago its wider than a truck 60 and low pinion. Going to put in a truck one of these days or maybe my 1994 e150 van lol.
 
Don't blame you if you already bought parts. Sounds like a good plan. But please no bed liner paint job. There are so many vehicles I didn't buy that I would have because of bed liner paint jobs it makes it so hard to strip and paint later. But it is your van so if it's what you want go for it. But I think it turns people off if you ever re-sell.
Thank you!
 
Don't blame you if you already bought parts. Sounds like a good plan. But please no bed liner paint job. There are so many vehicles I didn't buy that I would have because of bed liner paint jobs it makes it so hard to strip and paint later. But it is your van so if it's what you want go for it. But I think it turns people off if you ever re-sell. I did buy a dana 60 out of one of these vans a couple years ago its wider than a truck 60 and low pinion. Going to put in a truck one of these days or maybe my 1994 e150 van lol.
I actually like the bedliner paint jobs....but only on beater type vehicles. I'd never do that to one that could be brought back to it's original condition.
I imagine I'd probably do a homemade paint job and skip the bedliner stuff though. I've seen some decent paint jobs from cheap HF spray guns.
 
Quigley sent me some info on the van. I don't understand a lot of the stuff I'm looking at but there it is. Also looks like Quigley is against me installing 33's.lol
Anyone know who made the wheels I currently have?
 

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Quigley sent me some info on the van. I don't understand a lot of the stuff I'm looking at but there it is. Also looks like Quigley is against me installing 33's.lol
Anyone know who made the wheels I currently have?
Looks like 2nd gen dodge rims. Didnt know they made them in 8 lug though so i may be wrong.
 
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